innnrHHnnMnhnHnrtnniuuwrmnwviHHHHHhrtrtniui^^ 


ERRATA, 

■Pct^e  25,  5th  line  from  the  top,  for  80  skeins  deep  blue,  read  64.  Cth  line  for  32 
skeins  copperas  color,  read  32  skeins/»a?e  blue,  also  reckon  16  skeins 
of  white. 

SO,  bottom  line,  for  No.  12,  read  No.  10. 

.36,  5th  line  from  bottom,  for  no  read  07i. 

44.,  Cth  line  from  top,  for  roke  read  broke. 

46,  26th  line  from  top,  for  thumb  read  thnimb. 

52,  7th  line  from  top,  for  put  read  leave  oJii. 

54,  for  stars,  read  crosses. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/domesticmanufactOObron 


f 


DOMESTIC  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT, 


AND 

msaaiLi'  a)aiaiio®©iR^9 

IN  THE  ARTS 

OF 

WEAVING  AND  DYEING: 

COMPHEHENDINQ 

A PLAIN  SYSTEM  OF  DIRECTIONS, 

APPITINO  TO  those  arts  AND  OTHER  BRANCHES  NEARLT  CONICECTED  WITH 
THEM  IN  THE  JIANUFACTURE  OF 

COTTON  AND  WOOLLEN  GOODS  j 

INCLUDING  MANY  USEFUL 


TABLES  AND  DRAFTS, 

IN  CALCULATING  AND  FORMING  VARIOUS  KINDS  AND  PATTERNS  OP  GOODS. 
DESIGNED  FOR  THE  IMPROVEMENT  OF  DOMESTIC  MANUFACTURES. 

BY  J.  ^ R.  BROJ^'SOJr. 


UTICA  ; 

PRINTED  BY  WILLIAM  WILUAMS, 

HO.  60,  GENESEE  STREET. 


^orthefn  District  of  J^i'eto-York,  ss. 

BE  IT  REMEMBERED,  That  on  the  first  day  of  August,  in  the  forty-second 
year  of  the  Independence  of  the  United  States  of  America,  A.  D.  1817, J.  8c  R^ 
BnoNSON,  of  the  said  District,  have”  deposited  in  this  office,  the  title  of  a Book, 
the  right  whereof,  they  claim  as  proprietors,  in  the  words  following,  to  wit  : 
“The  Domestic  Manufacturer’s  Assistant,  and  Family  Directoiy,  in  the  Arts  of 
Weaving  and  Dyeing:  comprehending  a plain  system  of  directions  applying  to 
those  arts,  and  other  branches  nearly  connected  with  them  in  tlie  manufacture 
of  cotton  and  woollen  goods ; including  many  useful  Tables  and  Drafts  in  cal- 
culating and  forming  various  kinds  and  patterns  of  goods,  designed  for  the  im- 
provement of  domestic  manufactures.  By  J.  8c  R.  Bronson.” 

In  conformity  to  the  act  of  Congress  of  the  United  States,  entitled,  “ An  act 
for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps,  charts,  and 
books,  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  oT  such  copies  during  the  times  therein  men- 
tioned.” And  also  to  the  act,  entitled,  “ An  act  supplementary  to  an  act,  entitled 
fAnactfor  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps,  charts 
and  hooks,  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies  during  the  times  therein 
mentioned,  and  extending  the  benefits  thereof  to  the  arts  of  designing,  engraving, 
and  etching  historical  and  other  prints.” 

RICHARD  R.  LANSING, 

Clerk  of  the  JYorthern  District  of  JVe-w-Yorkn. 


PREFACE. 


The  arts  of  Weaving  and  Dyeing  attracted  our  attention 
as  early  as  the  year  1800,  and  from  that  period  until  the  pres- 
ent, our  time  has  been  chiefly  occupied  in  those  branches  and 
others  nearly  connected  therewith,  and  mostly  in  manufacturing 
establishments. 

From  these  advantages  and  the  assistance  our  manufacturing 
friends  have  obligingly  afforded  us,  we  feel  satisfied  that  we  pos- 
sess competent  means  of  information  to  publish  a book  of  this 
kind,  which  w'e  believe  will  prove  valuable  to  Manufacturers  of 
Cotton  and  Woollen  goods,  and  particularly  to  those  who  wish  to 
manufacture  in  their  own  families. 

Its  usefulness  we  trust  will  readily  be  acknowledged,  being 
designed  for  the  improvement  of  two  important  branches  of  man- 
ufacture, the  practice  of  which  we  have  attempted  to  expLsin  in 
familiar  terms,  by  a regular  system  in  the  various  branches  ap- 
pertaining to  dyeing  and  manufacturing  of  Cotton  and  Wool. 
The  books  which  have  been  heretofore  published  on  these  branch- 
es, have  generally  been  calculated  only  for  practical  Dyers  and 
I manufacturers,  and  although  their  instructions  have  generally 
I been  correct,  yet  they  have  often  failed  to  afford  immediate  bene- 
I fit  to  the  inexperienced,  by  not  descending  to  point  out  many 
I minute  particulars,  which,  to  them,  must  be  allowed  highly  neces- 
j sary  and  essential.  To  obviate  this  difficulty,  it  has  been  our 
intention  in  this  work,  to  express  ourselves  with  plainness,  and 
at  the  same  time  to  note  the  most  important  points  requisite  to 
obtain  good  colors,  and  manufacture  cloth  to  the  best  advan- 
tage. 

On  the  subject  of  Cotton  weaving  we  have  given  exact  Tables 
and  examples,  which  will  be  found  very  valuable  in  calculating 
and  forming  the  various  kinds  of  Plaids,  Stripes,  Checks,  Shir- 
ting, Sheeting  Ticking  &c. 

In  this  plan,  plain  directions  are  given  to  ascertain  the  exact 
length  that  any  number  of  Skeins,  runs  or  knots  of  yarn  will 
warp,  of  the  various  widths  and  Slaies  of  Cotton  goods  now 
generally  manufactured  in  our  country. 


PREFACE. 


I 


. ^The  tables  and  examples  only,  which  we  have  given,  will  be 
fonnd  worth  the  price  of  the  book  to  a great  number  of  manufac- 
turers, also  to  many  that  are  or  may  be  interested  in  manufac- 
turing establishments,  should  they  pay  that  attention  to  it  which 
the  subject  demands. 

We  have  endeavoured  to  explain  and  instruct  on  the  subject 
of  Woollen  weaving,  in  the  most  approved  method  now  practi- 
ced, and  as  this  branch  of  household  manufacture  is  more  impor- 
tant and  extensive  than  any  other,  we  believe  the  improvements 
lately  made  in  large  Woollen  factories  which  w'e  have  inserted, 
will  be  found  very  interesting. 

On  the  art  of  Dyeing,  it  will  be  found  w'e  have  given  a greater 
variety  of  receipts,  than  will  be  found  in  any  book  extant  for  the 
same  price  ; and  w hen  it  is  considered  that  it  is  seldom  that  a 
book  has  been  published  on  Weaving  and  Dyeing  both  in  one  vol- 
ume, we  think  many  will  avail  themselves  of  an  opportunity  to 
procure  such  a work. 

It  is  well  know  n that  many  fainilloe  wish  to  have  Cotton  and 
Woollen  yarn,  Flannels,  Garments  &c.  dyed  in  that  season  of 
th^  year  when  clotbiei-s  cannot  conveniently  attend  to  it : this 
b<^  to  such  will  be  a valuable  acquisition,  as  also  to  many  who 
are  situated  at  a considerable  distance  from  clothiers,  who  do 
not  practice  dyeing  fancy  colors  such  as  Scarlet,  Crimson  and 
Madder-red  on  Wollen  ; also  Red,  Yellow,  Green  and  Grange 
on  Cottori-  These  colors  may  be  dyed  in  families  to  advantage 
where  the  quantity  is  not  large,  which  will  be  useful  and  orna- 
mental in  the  manufacture  of  Carpeting,  coverlets,  Shawls,  Net- 
work, Fringe,  Plaids,  Stripes  &c. 

We  would  not  wish  to  be  understood  that  families  can  dye  all 
their  cloth  to  advantage  themselves,  especially  if  the  quantity  is 
large,  for  in  such  cases  it  would  require  larger  kettles  than  what 
are  generally  used  for  domestic  purposes.  In  dyeing  of  Scarlet 
and  other  fancy  colors  on  Woollen,  and  the  various  colors  on  cot- 
ton, we  have  given  such  particular  and  plain  directions,  that 
there  will  be  no  difficulty  for  any  family  to  obtain  them,  should 
they  follow  the  rules  with  exactness,  which  will  be  found  indis- 
pensably necessary. 

Of  the  merits  of  this  work  the  public  will  judge  : having 
no  desire  to  raise  our  reputation  at  the  expense  of  those  who 
have  preceded  us,  and  conscious  that  we  have  employed  the 
means  of  information  with  patient  industry  and  strict  integrity  in 
the  execution  of  it,  we  are  willing  to  abide  the  decision  of  those 
who  examine  for  themselves  and  judge  with  candor 

J^ew-Hartfortl,  Oneida  Ca.  ? 

JV.  F.  July,  18ir.  S 

\ 


INDEX 


OBSERVATIONS  on  Looms  and  Utensils  used  in 
Weaving,  - - - . - 

Tables  of  various  numbers  of  Cotton  Yarn  and  Sla’vs, 
with  the  number  of  knots  required  to  ua.pa 
yard  in  length.  . , . . 

Method  of  calculating  and  forming  the  pvitfern  or  figure 
of  any  kind  of  Check,  Plaid  or  Stripe;  which 
plan  also  ascertains  the  length  of  the  piece  and 
number  of  spools  required, according  to  the  figure, 
Examples  of  figures  of  various  kinds,  in  Cloth,  viz : Shirt- 
ing, Sheeting,  Stripes,  Ticking,  Plaids,  &c. 

W eaving,  which  includes  Sizing,  Drying,  ^ Vinding,  Warp- 
ing, Beaming,  &c.  - 

Observations  on  Wool,  - . . . 

Assorting  Wool,  . . . . . 

Cleansing  of  Wool,  - - - . . 

On  Carding  of  Wool,  . . _ . 

On  Spinning  'tVool,  ..... 

Warping  of  Woollen,  - - 

Sizing  of  Woollen,  ..... 

Beaming  the  Web,  - , . 

Weaving  Woollen,  - - - 

On  Preparing  the  Filling  for  Winding, 

Raith,  or  Raddle,  - ’ - 

Weaving  Drafts,  - 

Bird  Eyes,  - . . ' . 

Three  Shaft  Ticking,  .... 

Four  Shaft  do  - - - . 

Elastic  Cord,  - . - - . 

Herring  Bone,  - 

Six  Shaft  Twill,  - . - . _ 

Bird  Ey  es  and  Twilled,  - . . . 

Figured  Chambray,  . . . . " 

Diamonds  ami  Squares  for  Diaper,  ... 
Diamond  Diaper,  - . . . , 

Bags,  (wove  whole.)  - . - , . 

Diamond  of  Nine  Blocks — Diaper,  - 
Rose  and  Diamond  Diaper,  - - - _ 

F.ight  Block  Diamonds  for  Diaper,  - - . 

Cross  and  Diamond  Diaper,  - - - . 

Checked  Dimity,  - . , . . * 


Fnge 

■J 

13 


16 

18 


S3 


40 

ib. 

42 

4S“ 

45 

ib. 


45 

47 

48 

49 

ib. 


53 

54 

55 

ib. 

56 

57 

58 

59 

60 
61 
62 
63 
6S 

65 

66 

67 

68 


6 


INDEX. 


Eight  Shaft  Coverlet, 
Compass  Diaper, 
Half-Diamond  Diaper,  - 
Diamond  Coverlet, 
do  do 
Diamond  Diaper, 

Block  Stripe  Diaper, 

Bird’s  Eye  Carpet, 

Rose  and  Compass  Diaper, 
Plain  Block  Carpet, 
Damask  Diaper, 

Curtain  Diaper, 

Block  Carpet, 

Bird’s  Eye  Carpet, 

Cross  and  Circle  Coverlet, 
Eight  Shaft  Coverlet, 
Broad  Cloth, 

Casimere, 

Satinet, 


Pagfi, 

69 

71 

72 

73 

75 

76 

78 

79 

80 
82 
85 
88 
91 
94 
97 
99 

101 
102 
- 103 


Remarks  and  directions  on  Preparing  and  Dyeing  Cotton 
Yarn,  . - _ . . 

Observations  on  Preparing  and  Dyeing  Cotton  Yarn  in 
small  quantities,  calculated  for  families,  - 
On  Boiling  Dye-Woods, 

On  Vats  used  in  Dyeing  Blue  on  Cotton  and  Linen, 
Observations  on  Grinding  Indigo,  - - _ 

Direction  1.  To  Dye  Blue  on  Cotton  and  Linen  in  the 

cold  dye,  - - - - - 

II.  To  Dye  Blue  on  Cotton  and  Linen  on  a 
small  scale,  . - - _ 

III,  Copperas  Color  on  Cotton, 

“ IV.  Yellow  on  Cotton,  - _ . 

“ V.  do  do  - 

VI.  Black  on  Cotton,  ... 

“ VII.  Another  Black  on  Cotton,  - - - 

“ VIII.  Green  on  Cotton,  - - _ 

'•  IX.  Red  on  Cotton,  - - - 

Method  of  Making  Compound  of  Aqua-Fortis, 
“ X.  Orange  on  Cotton,  - - , 

“ XL  Madder  Red  on  Cotton, 

XII.  Madder  Red  on  Cotton  as  Practiced  in 


105 

108 

109 

no 

111 

115 

118 

120 

122 

124 

125 
127 

129 

130 

132 

133 

134 


France,  - - - _ 136 

“ XIII.  Purple  on  Cotton,  - _ _ IJS 

" XIV.  Drab  Color  on  Cotton,  - - 140 

“ XV.  Reddish  Brown  on  Cotton,  - - I4l 

« XVI.  Logwood  Blue  on  Cotton,  - - 142 


INDEX. 


7 


Pages. 

“ XVII.  Olive  Color  on  Cotton,  - - 143 

“ XVIII.  Olive  on  Cotton  with  a Blue  Ground  - 144 

XIX.  Cinnamon  Color  on  Cotton,  - 145 

“ XX.  Brown  on  Cotton,  - - - 147 

“ XXI.  Slate  Color  on  Cotton,  - - 148 

“ XXII.  do  do  do  - - - ib. 

‘‘  XXIII.  Brown  on  Cotton,  - - 149 

Scouring  Woollen  Cloth  from  the  Loom,  - - 150 

Another  Method,  -----  151 

Fulling,  -------  152 

Of  Scouring  Djed  Cloth,  - - - - ib. 

Of  Blue  on  Woollen,  -----  153 

Drection  XXIV.  Method  of  Setting  and  Working  the 
Indigo  vat,  . - - 

“ XXV.  For  an  excellent  Black  on  Wooollen,  - 
“ XXVI.  To  dye  a Common  Black  on  Woollen, 

“ XXVII.  Another  Common  Black  on  Woollen, 

“ XXVIII.  Green  on  Woollen, 

“ XXIX.  Best  Bottle  Green  on  Woollen, 

“ XXX.  Nicaragua  Red  on  Woollen, 

“ XXXI.  Madder  red  on  Woollen, 

« XXXII.  Yellow  on  Woollen, 

“ XXXIII.  Euft‘  Color  on  W oollen, 

“ XXXIV.  Scarlet  Red  on  Woollen,  - 

do  do  do  - 

To  dye  a Crimson  on  Wodlen,  - 
Orange  on  Woollen,  ^ - 
Cinnamon  Color  on  Woollen,  - . 

Dark  Cinnamon,  London  Brown,  .and 
British  Mud,  . - - 

Olive  Brown  on  Woollen, 
do  do  do  - - 

XLII.  Olive  on  Woollen, 

XLIIl.  Navy  Blue  on  Woollen, 
do  do  do 

Purple  on  Woollen, 

Snuft’  Color  on  Woollen, 

Snuff  Brown  and  T,ondon  Smoke, 

“ XI.VIII.  I.ight  Drab  on  Woollen,  - 

“ XLIX.  Drab  color  on  Woollen,  ... 

L.  Silver  Grey  on  do.  ... 

LI.  indigo  Blue  on  Wool  or  Linen,  (as  practiced 

in  many  lamilies,)  - - . iS4 

Description  of  Dye-woods  and  Drugs,  - - - - 185 

Useful  Receipts,  - - - - - - -194 


XXXV. 

XXXVI. 

XXXVII. 

xxxvm. 

XXXIX. 

XL. 

XLI. 


XLIV. 

XLV. 

XLVI. 

xr.vii 


ib. 

159 

160 
161 
163 
166 

ib. 

167 

168 
169 

ib. 

172 

174 

175 
ib. 

176 

177 

178 
ib. 

179 

180 
ib. 

181 

ib. 

183 

ib. 

183 


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MANUFACTURER’S  ASSIS’CANT. 

Ohsei'vations  on  Looms  and  utensils  used  in 
weaving. 

During  several  years  past,  there  has  been 
inany  kinds  of  looms  invented  and  offered  to  the  pub- 
lic, as  improvements  on  the  old  constructed  Fly  Shut- 
tle and  hand  loom.  Some  of  these  are  operated  in  all 
pai-ts  (except  shifting  the  temples,  and  bobbin  or  quill) 
by  only  moving  the  laith  with  the  hands  to  and  fro  ; 
some  are  operated  by  die  same  method  in  all  parts,  ex- 
cept the  treading,  u hich  is  done  by  the  feet : others 
again  the  shuttle  only  is  operated  by  the  motion  of  the 
Laith. 

These  different  kinds  of  Looms,  are  no  doubt  used 
to  advantage  for  plain  weaving,  where  they  are  used  b)?^ 
patient  and  experienced  weavers,  who  are  willing  and 
can  to  advantage,  place  their  whole  attention  to  keep 
their  loom,  and  work  in  order ; but  if  not  so,  it  is  very 
reasonable  to  suppose  that  the  common  Fly  shuttle  or 
hand  loom,  is  to  be  preferred  before  the  other  kinds 
yet  invented.  It  is  certain  that  the  Fly  shuttle  loom 
just  spoken  of,  or  the  hand  loom,  will  make  better  Cloth 
than  the  others  described,  especially  v hen  they  are 
used  by  new  beginners. 

In  making  these  remarks,  we  would  not  by  any 
means  wish  to  condemn  those  looms  of  a new  and'  com- 
jilicated  construction,  but  only  observe,  tliat  we  think 
they  are  not  so  n^ell  calculated  in  general  for  common 
use  : as  it  is  found  that  unless  a person  is  extremely 
careful  in  working  such  looms,  tliey  will  damage  tlie 
do  til. 

In  fact  when  we  examine  the  looms  in  Cotton  and 
Woollen  Factories,  both  for  ti’  ill  and  plain  work,-  and 
find  the  old  fashioned  Fly  shuttle  loom  still  encouraged, 
c 


10 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


t we  are  led  at  once  to  believe  that  tlie  old  plan  is  bet- 
ter than  any  other  yet  adopted. 

Some  persons  have  supposed  that  by  the  use  of  the 
new  constructed  Loom,  the  labor  in  weaving  is  made 
more  easy  and  light,  by  operating  all  the  parts  by  the 
movement  of  the  Laith : but  this  is  a mistaken  idea ; 
for  surely  if  all  these  movements  are  to  be  set  at  w ork 
by  the  strength  of  the  hands  and  anus  only,  it  must  in 
the  end  prove  more  tiresome  than  to  have  the  labour 
more  equally  distributed  by  the  work  of  the  hands  and 
leet. 

The  common  Fly  shuttle  Loom  differs  but  little  from 
the  common  hand  loom,  and  that  is  in  the  laith,  and 
shooting  the  shuttle.  The  Laith  of  the  former  one  is 
moved  with  the  left  hand,  ^vhile  the  other  ha:>d,  by  the 
help  of  a cord,  jerks  or  drives  tlie  shuttle  through  the 
piece.  This  manner  of  weaving  is  more  easy,  and  at- 
tended with  less  hard  labor  than  that  of  the  hand  loom, 
in  particular  from  this  plan  allo^vi^g  you  to  set  upright 
in  the  loom ; w'hereas  in  weaving  in  the  hand  loom,  you 
have  to  reach  forward  to  throw  the  shuttle. 

After  speaking  of  the  different  kinds  of  looms  we 
would  remai'k  that  the.  Common  Fly  shuttle  is  to  be 
preferred  in  some  cases  to  the  hand  loom,  that  is,  when 
the  learner  has  instruction  from  a person  well  acquain- 
ted with  that  kind  of  weaving,  or  from  an  ingenious  and 
good  weaver  in  the  common  loom. 


Cording  of  Looms. 

It  is  important  tliat  all  the  cords  belonging  to  a 
Loom  should  be  made  very  well,  and  of  so  large  a size 
as  to  be  strong.  Many  persons  v.  ho  weave  occasional- 
ly in  families,  are  not  particular  to  make  their  cords 
well ; in  that  case  tliey  fail  very  soon,  besides  often 
damaging  the  clotli  by  their  giving  way.  Whereas  if 
they  would  take  a little  more  time  m making  theiiv 


MANUFACTUHER’S  ASSISTANT. 


11 


Aey  would  wear  a considerable  length  of  time  and 
save  the  weaver  a great  deal  of  unnecessary  trouble. 


' Harness. 

The  twine  for  the  harness  of  a loom  should  be  made 
of  good  and  well  chosen  Cotton  or  Linen  yam,  and 
very  evenly  doubled  and  twisted.  The  wings  or  har- 
ness should  without  fail  be  dressed  or  starched  well, 
with  good  brushes  before  weaving  each  piece,  and  in 
the  manner  as  you  will  find  among  the  instructions  in 
Beaming  and  setting  a piece  to  work.  By  paying  at- 
tention to  the  harness  in  that  respect,  much  time  and 
expense  will  be  saved  in  making  new  ones  often. 
Those  who  have  not  practiced  starching  the  harness, 
by  making  a beginning,  will  find  by  this  practice,  their 
trouble  well  compensated 


Raith  or  Raddle. 

The  Raddle  is  thought  by  some  to  be  an  imple- 
ment of  no  great  consequence,  as  it  respects  its  being 
made  in  a nice  and  workmanlike  manner ; but  it  is  far 
otherwise.  The  weavers  Raith  or  Raddle,  should  be 
made  smooth,  and  the  teeth  set  nice  and  tight,  in  order 
that  the  piece  while  beaming,  may  be  spread  even  and 
in  a proper  rnanner : the  expense  of  a good  one  is  but 
trifling,  and  is  an  article  that  will  last  with  good  usage, 
a great  length  of  time. 


Temples. 

This  implement  in  weaving  is  too  often  made  in  a 
shghty  manner,  especially  the  points  or  teeth.  The 


' i2 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


points  or  teeth  should  be  made  of  hardened  wire,  of  a 
suitable  size,  set  even  and  near  tosrether,  and  filed  A ery 
smooth. 


Shuttle. 

Shuttles  should  be  made  of  fine  grained  hard  wood, 
and  of  such  a kind  as  will  not  incline  to  get  rough  in 
using. 


Spools. 

The  spools  for  winding  warp  should  be  all  of  a size, 
so  that  in  warping  a piece  they  will  turn  alike  and  easy. 
It  is  also  necessary  that  the  sticks  which  the  spools  run 
on,  should  be  straight  and  smooth  which,  if  so  will  often 
admit  the  yam  to  be  warped  without  breaking  a thread. 

After  making  these  observations  on  the  different 
utensils  used  in  weaving,  it  will  not  be  improper  to  re- 
mark, that  the  quality  and  beauty  of  a piece  of  cloth  is 
often  injured,  by  using  even  one  of  the  above  utensils 
where  it  is  badly  iqade  or  out  of  repair. 


A TABLE, 

Of  various  Numbers  of  CottonYarn  and  Slales ; witli  the  number 
of  Knots  required  to  warp  a yard  in  length.  For  Cloth  three 
quarters  wide. 


JVoq/ 

Yarn. 

JVo  of 
Slaie. 

Knots. 

No  8 

goes  in  a 

32 

and  requires 

12 

9 

34 

13 

10 

36 

m 

11 

38 

14 

12 

40 

15 

13 

42 

16 

14 

44 

16i 

13 

44 

16-1 

16 

46 

17 

17 

48 

18 

18 

50 

19 

19 

50 

19 

2C 

52. 

19i 

21 

54 

20 

22 

56 

21 

23 

56 

21 

24 

58 

22 

25 

58 

22 

26 

60 

221 

27 

62 

23 

28 

64 

24 

29 

66 

25 

3C 

68 

25i 

2 

to  warp  a yard. 


The  yarn  in  the  above  table,  is  calculated  to  fill  a Slaie  three 
quarters  full ; for  instance  a Slaie  of  40  beers  wide  is  to  be  filled 
30  beers.  N.  B.  By  so  many  knots  to  warp  a yard,  means  that 
the  Factory  7 knotted  skeins  are  10  knots,  as  they  are  so  in  reali- 
ty ; being  more  threads  in  each  tie,  than  those  from  family  reels: 
each  factory  skein  being  in  all  our  calculations  reckoned  ten 
knots  or  half  a run.  To  cast  the  number  of  knots  to  warp  a yard 
of  cloth  three  quarters  wide,  take  out  one  quarter  of  the  beer,  and 
halve  the  remainder.  For  example,  in  a 40  slaie  one  quarter  out 
leaves  30,  half  of  which  is  15,  knots  to  warp  a yard. 


14 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


Table  of  numbers  of  Cotton  Yam  and  Slaies,  with  the 
number  of  knots  required  to  waiq)  a yard  in  length. 

FOR  CLOTH  ONE  YARD  WIDE. 


JVoo/ 

Yarn. 

JYo  oj 
Slaie. 

Knots 

No  8 

goes  in  a 

32 

and  requires 

16 

to  warp  a yard. 

9 

34 

17 

10 

36 

18 

11 

38 

19 

12 

40 

. 20 

13 

42 

21 

14 

44 

22 

15 

44 

22 

16 

46 

23 

17 

48 

24 

18 

50 

25 

19 

50 

25 

20 

52 

26 

21 

54 

27 

22 

56 

28 

23 

56 

28 

24 

58 

29 

' 

25 

58 

29 

26 

60 

30 

27 

62 

31 

28 

64 

32 

29 

66 

33 

30 

68 

34 

The  yam  in  the  above  table  is  calculated  to  fill  a slaie 
full ; and  observe,  it  requires  half  as  many  knots  to 
warp  a yard  of  cloth  one  yard  wide,  as  there  are  beers 
in  the  slaie.  For  instance.  No.  12  yam  in  a 40  slaie  1 
yard  wide,  requires  20  knots  or  2 skeins  to  warp  1 yard 
in  length.  For  example,  you  wish  to  calculate  for  60 
yards  of  cloth,  thus  : 20)  120  (60  yards. 

120 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


15 


Table  of  Yam  and  Slaies;  with  the  number  of  knots 
required  to  warp  a yard  in  length.  For  Cotton 
Shirting  three  quarters  wide  when  bleached. 


JV*o  oj 
Yarn. 

Jv'o  of 
Slaie. 

Knotir 

No  8 

goes  in  a 

32 

and  requires 

13 

9 

34 

14 

10 

36 

15 

11 

38 

16 

12 

40 

17 

13 

42 

18 

14 

44 

19 

15 

44 

19 

16 

46 

20 

17 

48 

20 

18 

50 

21 

19 

50 

21 

20 

52 

22 

21 

54 

23 

22 

56 

24 

23 

56 

24 

24 

58 

25 

25 

58 

25 

26 

60 

26 

27 

62 

26 

28 

64 

27 

29 

66 

28 

30 

68 

29 

to  warp  a yard 


The  following  rule  will  ans^^’^er  to  make  out  pieces  or 
webs  of  I shirting  of  any  length,  from  the  above  table. 

First  set  down  the  number  of  knots  to  warp  a yard,  thus,  for  ex- 
ample, in  a 4-0  slaie — . J7  kjiots  to  warp  a yard, 

Proof  f 17)  102  0 (00  yards,  60  yards  you  wisli, 


102,0  knots  or  102  skeins. 


16 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


Method  of  calculating  and  forming  the  pattern  or  jig^ 
(ire  of  any  kind  of  Cheeky  Plaid  or  stripe  ; winch  plan 
also  ascertains  the  length  of  the  piece  and  number  of 
spools  required,  according  to  the  fgure. 

In  the  first  place  determine  what  figure  you  will 
have,  which  you  can  choose  according  to  your  ovm 
fancy,  or  by  copying  after  any  sample  of  Plaid  or  stripe 
Gingham,  or  check  in  Handkerchief’s.  For  example, 
you  make  choice  of  the  following  pattern,  which  is  for- 
med of  3 colors  in  the  warp.  Say  take  No.  12  Yam 
for  a 40  Slaie  |wide : — 

8 threads  of  Deep  Bluet 
6 threads  of  Pale  Blue. 

2 threads  of  White. 

”16 

making  sixteen  threads  in  the  figure,  observing  that 
should  more  than  one  colour  be  used  in  the  filling,  it 
will  form  a Plaid ; but  if  only  one  colour  in  the  filling, 
it  forms  a strij^e.  The  weaver  must  A\  arp  wdth  spools, 
in  proportion  to  the  number  of  threads  in  the  figure. 
For  instance,  take  either  the  same  number  of  spools  as 
tliere  are  threads  in  the  figure,  tvrice  the  number,  three 
times  the  number,  and  so  on,  according  to  the  length 
you  wish  to  have  the  piece.  For  example  in  this  piece, 
take  twice  the  number,  v itli3  skeins  on  a spool,  which 
will  make  32  spools,  being 

16  spools  of  D:^ep  Blue 

12 — of  Pale  Blue 

4 of  White. 

■32" 

Thii'ty  two  spools  ■path  three  skeins  on  a spool  make 
96  skeins:  then  by  multiplying  tli£  num.ber  of  skeins  by 
10,  which  v e cnll  themimber  of  knots  in  a skein,  gives 
the  w hole  number  of  knots  in  96  skeins,  wliich  is  960 
knots,  and  you  v ill  find  by  cutting  off  the  right  hand 
cy’Mier  it  w ill  shew  again  the  number  of  skeins. — Thus 
96,0.  You  wail  fiud  by  examining  the  Tables  of  Yam 


MANUFACTURER^S  ASSISTANT. 


ir 


and  Slaies,  that  it  requires  15  knots  to  warp  a yard  of 
Cloth  I wide,  of  Yam  No.  12  in  a 40  Slaie.  By  divi- 
ding 960  knots  by  15  shews  the  length  or  number  of 
yards  there  is  in  this  piece,  which  you  will  find  is  64. 

Statement  32  spools 

3 skeins  on  a spool 

96  skeins 
10  knots  in  a skein 


96,0 


knots  to  w^arp  a yd.  15)  96,0  (64  Yards. 

To  find  the  exact  number  of  skeins  of  the  different 
icolors  which  will  be  required,  3mu  must  first  state  the 
whole  number  of  skeins  you  have  in  this  piece,  u hich 
is  96 : then  di\  ide  them  by  the  number  of  threads  in 
the  figure,  which  is  16;  thus,  how  manj^  times  16  are 
there  in  96,  answer  6 ; then  multiply  the  threads  of 
each  color  by  6,  which  shews  the  exac  t number  of 
skeins  of  each  kind  of  color.  this  method  you 
can  calculate  for  any  figure.  For  example  thus  : — 
Figure  in  the  icarp. 

Deep  Blue  Pah  Blue  White 
Threads — 8 6 2 

6 times 


is  48  Skeins  of  Deep  Blue 
is  36  Pale  P’- 

is  12 


Knots  to  15)  960 
warp  a 3'd  0 


^ yards." 


^'Viiite 

Threfds  r 

J times 

is  56  Sk’ns  D. 
IS  42  p j 


98 


Skeins  of  Warn  m 

98  r No.  12. 

j of  IQ 

''  piece  steni'  ma^eTut’  ^I)oIe  for 

'*■  b 


18 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


Filling  Calculation. 

In  calculating  the  number  of  skeins  of  Filling  which 
you  will  want  to  fill  a piece,  you  must  first  state  the 
number  of  threads  that  form  the  figure ; then  multiply 
by  any  number  that  will  produce  as  many  or  a few 
more  skeins  than  there  is  of  warp — this  method  you 
will  find  produces  an  exact  proportion  of  each  color. 
The  multiplier  will  be  governed  by  the  number  of 
threads  that  form  the  figure.  For  instance ; you  choose 
a different  figure  in  the  filling  than  was  stated  for  the 
piece  you  have  made  out,  thus — 

B.  Blue  P.  Blue 

Threads  4 4 

12  times 

is  48  Skeins  of  Deep  Blue 
is  48  Pale  Blue 

After  a piece  or  web  is  made  out  and  ready  for  the 
weaver,  if  you  wish  to  proceed  regular  you  will  have  a 
direction  attached  to  each  piece,  u hen  made  out.  The 
following  dire<.  tion  is  calculated  for  the  piece  of  Plaid 
you  have  made  out. 

Lay  tills  for  64  yards  of  Cloth,  in  a 40  Slaie,  make 
the, Check, 

In  Ihe  iParp,  In  the  Filling, 

8 tlireads  of  D,.  Blue  8 threads  of  D.  Blue 

6 do  Pale  6 do  P.  Blue 

2 do  Wliite 

96  Skeins  Warp,  7 No.  12,  32  Spools,  wind  3 skeins 
98  Filling.  5 spool. 


Examples  of  Figures  of  various  kinds  in  Clot 

We  shall  now  give  directions  to  make  a variety  of 
figures  or  patterns,  in  Plaids,  Stripes  and  Checks:  also 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT'. 


19 


^ive  some  examples  in  making  out  Sheeting,  Shirting, 

Bed  Ticking.  * 

By  a little  study  the  learner  will  soon  find  out  the 
plan,  or  principle  on  which  any  figure  is  formed.  1 hose 
that  are  here  made  out,  may  be  applied  to  any  Slaie, 
only  to  take  the  right  number  of  yam  and  knots  to 
warp  a yard,  as  suited  to  it.  After  becoming  acquain- 
ted with  the  rule  of  forming  Plaids,  Stripes,  &c.  it  wall 
be  perceived  that  an  innumerable  and  almost  endless 
variety  of  patterns  or  figures,  can  be  obtained  with  the 
greatest  ease,  and  must  be  considered  an  object  quite 
interestino-  and  important  to  those  concerned  in  Cotton 
Factories^  and  also  to  those  who  manufacture  cotton 

cloth  in  families.  , i u -i 

N.  B.  Obsen’e  when  the  different  colored  threads 

that  form  the  figure  are  multiplied,  you  must  reckon 
all  that  are  of  one  color  at  a time,  as  you  will  find  tna. 
in  some  figures,  one  color  is  placed  in  two  or  three 
separate  positions ; in  which  case  you  mvist  reckon  them 
all  at  a time,  the  same  as  you  will  find  in  some  of  the 
following  examples  in  Plaids  and  Ticking. 


Calculations  inmaking  out  pieces  or  webs  of  cotton. 


For  a piece  of  Shirting  | wide,  in  a 38  Slaie.  Yam 
No.  11 

Statement  16  Knots  to  warp  a yard 
60  Yards  are  wanted 

knots  to  16)  960  knots  (60  yards 
warp  a yd.)  96 

96  Skeins  of  warp,  24  Spools  wind  4 Skeins  on  a 
96  do  of  Filling.  Spool. 


By  the  rule  just  stated,  it  will  be  found  that  tl*ie  num- 
ber of  knots  to  warp  a yard  are  first  noted ; the  knots  are 


20 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


bTof[nottoZr^°'i^Z  ‘he"  ‘“''r"''  by  the"™! 
then  shews  the  number  of  yarck  of'Sh”‘  “',1,*' 

In  the  above  piece  it  remnvZ  o^n  i ^ piece, 

ting  off  the  rS  hs!!?“  "'>'“*>  by  cut- 

skeins,  whfch  fs  96  ^bews  ff.e  „umL  of 

tfaftJttt.:*,  Catcula. 
tedjor  yarn  JVo.  12  in  a 40  Slaie. 

20  knots  to  warp  a yard 
yards  are  wished 

knots  to  warp  20)  1200  (60  yards 

a yard)  120  120  Skeins  of  Warp 

Q T * » Fillinff. 

30  Spools,  with  4 skeins  on  a spool.  ^ 

r^r^piece  of, tripe  i wide,  r,m  jV„.  ,2 

Figure  in  the  warp. 

Blue  White 

threads  2 2 

20  times 


is 

is 


40  skeins  of  Blue 
40  do  White. 


15)  800  (53  yards 
75 

~50 

45 

SO  Skeins  of  warn, 

SO  do  Filling-. 


Filling. 

80  skeins  of  I color. 


20  spools,  wind  four 
Skeins  on  a spool;' 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT.  21 

N.  B.  In  first  multiplying  the  threads,  you  must 
observe  that  it  is  necessary  to  take  an  even  number  to 
multiply  with.  In  varying  it  you  will  find  it  will  pro- 


13,  a 42 


Pilling. 

[96  skeins  of  1 
is  32  „ White.  color.] 

Knots  to  warp  

a yard,  16)  96,0  (60  yards, 

96 

00  32  spools  with  3 sk’s  on  a spool 

96  skeins  warp.  or  24  spools,  with  4 on  a spool. 

96  “ filling 


For  apiece  of  Chambray,  | wide,  Yarn  JVo.  12,  in  a 40  Slaie. 
Rule.  15  knots  to  warp  a yard. 

60  yards  are  wished. 

00  Filling. 

90  90  skeins  of  blue  or  any 

knots  w’p  y’d  15)  900  (60  yards.  [other  color, 

90 

90  skeins  of  white  warp. 

30  spools,  wind  3 skeins  on  a spool. 
Chambray  is  made  from  any  one  color,  as  you  wish, 
in  the  warp,  and  also  in  the  filling ; only  have  them  dif- 
fer from  each  other.  d 2 


duce  more  or  less  number  of  yards. 



For  a piece  of  Stripe  i imde,  Yarn  JVo. 

Figure  in  the  Warp. 
Blue.  White. 

Threads,  4 2 

16  times, 

is  64  skeins  of  Blue. 


HWw  a-rfuinnn  n H M H I 


22  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

For  Chambray  i wide,  Yarn  No,  16,  in  « 46  Slaie. 

Rule.  17  knots  to  warp  a yard. 

60  yards  are  wished. 

102  Filling. 

102  skeins  of  blue  or  any 

knots w’p  y’d  17)  102,0  (60  yards  [other  color. 

102 

102  skeins  of  white  warp. 

34  spools,  wind  3 skeins  on  a spool. 


For  a piece  of  Plaid  j wide.  Yarn  JSTo.  12,  in  a 40  slaie. 

Fi^re  in  the  Warp.  Figure  in  the  Filling. 

2>.  Blue.  White.  Blue.  Copperas. 

threads  12  2 12  2 

6 times  6 times 

is  72  skeins  D.  Bl.  is  72  skeins  of  Blue, 

is  12  „ White,  is  13  „ of  Copperas. 

15)840(56  yar^s  84 

75 

~90 
90 

84  skeins  warp. 

84  „ filling. 


28  spools,  wind  3 skeins  on  a spool-. 


MAVtJFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

For  Plaid  i wide,  Yarn  JV'o.  IG,  in  a 46  Slai?, 

Figure  in  tlie  Warp. 

D.  Blue.  While. 

Threads  10  1 

8 times. 

is  80  skeins  of  Dark  Blue, 
is  8 „ of  White. 


23 


knots  to  warp  a 17)  88,0(51|  yards 
[yard,  85 

To 

17 


22  spools,  wind  4 skeins 
[on  a spool. 


88  skeins  of  warp. 
90  „ filling. 


13 


Figure  in  the  Filling. 
).  Blue.  Copperas. 
10  2 


is  75  skeins  of  Deep  Blue, 
is  15  of  Copperas. 

T 


For  Plaid  | wide,  Yarn  JVo.  1 3 in  a 42  Slaie. 
Figure  in  the  Warp  Figure  in  the  Filling. 

P.  Blue.  Orange.  D.  Blue.  P.  Blue.  D.  Blue. 
Threads  6 13  8 4 

8 times  7 times 


is 

is 

is 


48  Skeins  P.  Blue 
8 do  Orange 
24  do  D.  Blue 


Knots  to  16)  80  (50  yards 
warp  a yd.  80 
80  Skeins  of  Warp. 

54  do  Filling. 


is  56  Sk.  P.  Blue, 
is  28  do  D.  Blue. 

84 


20  Spools,  wind  4 Skeins 
on  a Spool, 


24  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

For  Plaid  i wide.  Earn  JSfh.  18  or  19,  in  a 50  Slaie. 

Figure  in  the  warp. 

D.  Blue.  P.  Blue.  White, 
Threads  8 5 1 

8 times. 

is  64  skeins  of  Deep  Blue, 
is  40  skeins  of  Pale  Blue, 
is  8 skeins  of  white. 

knots  to  warp  a y’d.  19)  112,0  (59  yards. 

95 

ITO 

152 

"Ts 

Figure  in  the  Filling. 

D.  Blue.  Copperas. 

8 8 
7 times. 

is  56  skeins  of  Deep  Blue, 
is  56  skeins  of  Pale  Blue. 

iTi 

28  spools,  wind  4 skeins  on  a spool. 
112  skeins  of  warp. 

112  skeins  of  filling. 


For  Plaid  i wide,  Earn  JVo.  21,  in  a 54  Slaie. 

Figure  of  the  Filling. 

B.  Blue.  Copperas. 

10  2 
9 1 times. 

is  95  skeins  Deep  Blue, 
is  19  skeins  Copperas  i Color. 

TT4 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


25 


Figure  in  the  Warp. 

1).  Blue.  F.  Blue.  White.  F.  Blue\ 
threads,  8 2 2 2 

8 times. 

is  80  skeins  Deep  Blue, 
is  32  skeins  Copperas  Color. 

knots  warp  a yard  20)  112,0  (56  yards. 

100 

Tio’ 

120 

112  skeins  of  warp.  28  spools,  wind  4 skeins  on 

114  skeins  of  filling.  [a  spool. 


For  Fluid  f wide,  Yam  J\To.  16,  in  a 46  slaie. 

Figure  in  tlie  warp. 

D.  Blue.  Cop.  D.  Blue.  Cop. 
threads  10  2 2 2 

6 times. 

is  72  skeins  of  Deep  Blue, 
is  24  skeins  of  Copperas. 

cnots  to  w’p  17)  96,0  (56|  yards. 

85 

ilo 

102 

8 32  spools,  wind  3 sk’s  on  a spoof 

Figure  in  the  Filling. 

D.  Blue.  F.  Blue.  D.  Blue.  F.  Blue. 

10  2 2 2 
6 times. 

is  72  skeins  of  Deep  Blue, 
is  24  skeins  of  Pale  Blue. 

% 

6 skeins  of  warp. 

6 skeins  of  filling. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

Foi’  Tlaid  | wide.  Yarn  JSTo.  17,  in  a 48  Slaie. 


Figure  in  the  Warp.  Figure  in  the  Filling, 

i).  Blue.  P.  Blue.  fVhlte.  Orange.  D.  BlueP.  Blue 


Threads  6 6 11 

6 6 

8 times 

9|  times 

is  48  Skeins  D.  Blue. 

is  57  Sk.  D.  B 

is  48  do  P.  Blue 

is  57  do  P.  B 

is  8 do  White 

Tu 

is  8 do  Orange 

knots  to  18)1l2,0  (62  yards 

warp  a yd.  108 

40 

36 

-4 

112  Skeins  of  Warp.  28  Spools,  wind  4 Skeir 
114  do  of  Filling  on  a Spool. 


For  Plaid  i wide.  Yarn  JVo.  16,  in  a 46  Slaie. 

Figure  in  the  Warp. 

B.  Blue.  IVhite.  I).  Blue.  IVhite.  D.  Blue.  IVhite. 
Threads  8 ill  1 1 

8 times 

is  80  Skeins  Deep  Blue 
is  24  do  of  White 

knots  17)~l04,0  (61  yards 
warp  a yd.  102 

20 

17 

3 

104  Skeins  of  Warp  26  Spools,  wind 

102  do  of  Filling  Skeins  on  a Spoc 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT.  27 

Figure  in  the  Filling. 

D.  Blue.  White.  J).  Blue.  White.  D.  Blue.  White. 

12  1 1 1 1 1 
6 times 

is  84  Skeins  D.  Blue 
is  18  do  White 


For  Fluid  i wide.  Farn  «iV*o.  17,  in  a 48  Slaie 

Figure  in  the  Warp. 
jD.  Blue.  White.  Green.  White. 

Threads  12  1 6 1 

6 times 

is  72  Skeins  of  Deep  Blu« 
is  12  do  of  White 
is  36  do  of  Green 
knots  to  18)  120,0  (66  2-3  yards 
,warp  a yd.  108 

"120 

108 

"ii 

Figure  in  the  Filling. 

JD.  Blue.  Red.  P.  Blue.  Red. 

12  2 6 2 
5 1 times 

is  66  Skeins  Deep  Blue 
is  22  do  Red 
is  33  do  Pale  Blue 

121" 

120  Skeins  of  Warp 

121  do  Filling  • 20  Spools,  with  6 skeins 

' on  a spool,  or  40  S^kwIs,  with  three  on  a spool. 


28 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 
For  Plaid  | wide,  Yarn  JV*o.  18,  in  a SO  Slaie. 


Fie;urein  the  Warp. 

D.  Blue.  P.  Blue.  White.  P.  Blue. 
Threads  12  6 1 6 

4 times 

is  48  Skeins  of  Deep  Blue 
is  48  do  of  Pale  Blue 
is  4 do  of  White 

knots  to  19)  100,0  (52  2-3  yards 
warp  a yd.  95 


D.  Blue.  P.  Blue.  Cop.  P.  Blue. 
12  6 2 6 
4 

is  48  Skeins  of  Deep  Blue 
is  48  do  of  Pale  Blue 

is  8 do  of  Copperas 


50 

38 


12 


Figure  in  the  Filling. 


104 


100  Skeins  Warp 
104  Filling 


25  spools,  wind  4 skeins' 
on  a spool. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


Q9 

For  Plaid  i wide.  A*o.  22  or  23  in  a 56  Slaie. 

Figure  in  tJie  warp  Figure  in  the  Filling. 

D.  Blue  Urange  P.  Blue  Orange.  D.  Blue  P.  Blue 
threads  6 2 8 2 

6 times 

is  36  skeins  of  Deep  Blue 
is  48  do  of  Pale  Blue 
is  24  do  of  Orange 

kts.21)  108,0  (51  yards 
towp.a  105 
yard.  -Jg 

21 

~9 

108  Skeins  Warp  36  Spools,  wind  3 skeins 

108  do  Filling  on  a spool. 

For  apiece  of  .Apron  Check  i wi^f^rlTj^o7\2,^ a 40  Slaie 
Figure  in  the  Warp. 

Blue.  White. 
threads  4 4 

' 12  times, 

is  48  skeins  of  Blue 
is  48  White 

knots  warp  a yd.  15)  960  (64  yards 
90 


6 6 
9 times 

is  54  skeins  D.Blue 
is  54  do  Pale  Blue. 

l08 


60 

60 

Figure  in  the  Filling. 

Blue  White 
4 4 

12  times 

is  48  skeins  of  Blue, 
is  48  of  White. 

96  skeins  32  spools,  wind  3 .skeins  on 

96  filling  a spool,  or  24  with  4 each 

E 


30 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


For  apiece  of  Jlpron  Check,  I Yard  JV*o.  16,  in  a 46  Slaie^ 
Figure  in  the  Warp. 

Blue  White 
threads  6 6 

12  times 

is  72  skeins  of  Blue, 
is  72  of  White. 

knots  to  a yard  23)  144,0  (62|  yards. 

138  ' : 

^60 

46 

H 

Figure  in  the  Filling. 

Blue.  White. 

6 6 
12  times. 

is  72  skeins  of  Blue, 
is  72  White. 

144 

144  skeins  of  warp.  36  spools,  wind  4 skeins 

144  filling.  [on  a spool 


For  Twilled  Bed  Ticking  7-8  wide,  Yarn  JV'b.  11  or  12  in  the 
Warp..,calculaled  for  a 36  Slaie:  to  be  drawn  4 threads  in  a 
split. 

Figure  in  the  Warp. 

White.  Blue.  White.  Blue.  White.  Blue. 
threjids  16  2 2 6 2 2 

times.  Filling. 

llOskeinsof  white.  121  skeins  white  Filling 
55  skeins  of  blue.  [No.  10. 

k’s  to  30)  165,0  (56  yards. 

a y’dj  150  30  spools  wind  5|  skeins  on  a spool 

■ 150  165  skeins  of  warp.  No.  11 

150  121  filling.  No.  12 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT.  SI 

The  preceding  piece  is  to  be  warped  56  yards,  but  will 
not  be  more  than  about  52  from  the  loom ; which  makes 
4 tick  patterns  of  13  yards  each.  It  is  calculated  to  be 
dra\\Ti  32  beers  wide,  and  to  be  wove  with  4 treadles, 
and  4 wings. 

Twilled  Bed  Ticking  7-8  wide,  warp  ^Vo.  9 or  10,  in  a S6  slaie : 
to  be  drawn  3 threads  in  a split. 

Figure  same  the  other  in  the  Warp. 

84  skeins  of  white. 

42  skeins  of  blue. 

knots  to  warp  22,5)126,0  (56  yds.  or  52  yds.  out  of  the 
a yard  1 12  5 [loom. 

1350  Filiinff. 

1350  95  sk’s  white  filling  No.  8. 

126  skeins  of  warp  No.  10. 

95  filling  No.  8. 

30  spools,  win^  4 skeins  and,2  factory^  ties  on  a spool 


For  a piece  of  Bed  Ticking,  wove  the  same  as  plain  cloth  but  of 
a handsome  figure,  7-8  wide.  Tarn  JV*o.  10.  in  the  warp,  cal- 
culated for  a S6  slaie,  2 threads  in  a split. 

Figure  in  the  Warp. 

White.  Blue.  White.  Blue.  White.  Blue. 
threads  16  2 2 6 2 2 

2 times 

is  40  skeins  white  Filling. 

is  20  skeins  blue.  56  skeins  white  filling  No  8 

k’stoal6)^,0  (37|  yards. 

30  spools,  wind 2 skeins  on  a spool 

60  skeins  warp  No.  10. 

56  skeins  filling  No.  8. 

N.  B.  The  above  is  calculated  for  3 patterns. 


yard  48 

Tio 

112 

~8 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS, 

(hi  preparing  Cotton  Yarn  for  Weaving : which  includes 
Sizing,  Dnjing,  Winding,  Warping,  Beaming, 

Before  we  attempt  to  explain  and  direct  as  to  the 
manner  of  preparing  cotton  yam  for  weaving,  through 
the  various  operations,  we  must  offer  an  apology  to  me 
experienced  weaver  who  may  happen  to  look  over  our 
pages,  for  the  simplicity  of  the  language  we  make  use 
of : but  w^hen  it  is  considered,  that  our  general  inten- 
tion has  been  to  introduce  a practical  work,  adapted  to 
the  inexperienced,  as  well  as  those  that  have  only  a par- 
tial knowledge  of  the  arts  we  treat  of,  we  indulge  a 
hope  t hat  no  material  disadvantage  will  arise  from  the 
course  we  have  pursued,  as  most  of  our  readers  who 
are  experienced  in  the  different  subjects,  will  easily  un- 
derstand them. 


Sizing  Cotton  Yarn.  For  SO  pounds. 

The  first  object  in  preparing  cotton  yam  for  weaving 
is  that  of  Sizing,  which  should  be  done  in  die  following 
manner. 

Put  in  a large  wooden  boivl,  or  other  vessel,  about 
two  pounds  of  wheat  flour ; then  add  cold  water  and 
stir  it  continually,  using  as  much  water  as  will  reduce  it 
to  a fine  paste : then  afterw'ards  use  more  cold  water 
gradually  until  it  is  thin  enough  to  strain  through  a com- 
mon sieve. 

Now  place  a kettle  over  a fire  with  a sufficient'  quan- 
tity of  water  to  wet  the  yam ; bring  it  to  a scalding  heat, 
then  pour  the  cold  size  through  a siei^e  into  die  kettle, 
and  let  it  boil  two  or  three  minutes  stirring  it  well. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


33 


Another  kettle  or  tub  should  be  ready,  to  use  for 
working  the  yam  in  the  size.  There  are  different  meth- 
ods used  to  handle  the  yam  in  the  size,  but  we  have 
generally  practiced  the  following,  which  is  done  by  ma- 
king the  yam  into  a chain.  First  take  about  3 skeins 
of  yam,  and  place  them  togetlier  at  whole  length : then 
take  3 more  and  pass  through  the  first,  and  double  the 
last : tlien  3 more  is  to  be  put  through  the  two  loops  of 
the  last,  and  so  on  until  you  have  prepared  half  of  the 
yam.  Should  you  have  20  pounds  in  the  whole,  you 
will  next  make  another  chain  the  same  as  the  other. 
After  both  chains  are  made,  then  tie  the  last  tw'o  loops 
of  each  chain  with  a string. 

In  the  next  place  put  half  of  the  yam  into  an  empty 
kettle  or  tub,  by  curling  it  round  on  the  bottom  of  it 
and  so  on  towards  the  top  ; then  stir  your  sizing  and 
pour  half  of  it  on  die  yarn,  when  it  is  nearly  scalding 
hot,  then  pound  it  moderately  ivith  a smooth  stick  a 
few  minutes,  then  turn  it  over  and  work  it  together  as 
before.  Add  the  remainder  of  the  yam  to  the  rest, 
put  in  as  before,  and  pour  on  the  remainder  of  thesi- 
"zing,  and  work  it  together  the  same  as  the  first  parcel. 

When  tlie  size  has  cooled  a little  so  that  you  can  en- 
dure to  wring  it  with  the  hands,  then  wring  out  three 
skeins  at  a time,  or  one  link,  until  it  is  all  wrung. — 
Should  vou  wish  to  be  certain  how  hard  it  ousht  to  be 
wrung,  you  can  determine  that  point  by  drymg  at  first 
three  skeins  ; this  is  on  tlie  supposition  that  you  arc 
not  skilled  in  sizing  yam. 

The  reader  perhaps  will  believe  w'e  are  giving  small 
and  unimportant  information  ; but  we  earnestly  solicit 
his  patience  until  the  piece  is  ready  for  weaving,  and  if 
he  has  practiced  directions  less  particular  heretofore, 
perhaps  the  methods  here  pointed  out,  w’hen  practiced, 
may  convince  him  that  particular  rules  are  necessaiy. 

E 2 


34.  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

Drying  Sized  Yarn, 

After  the  yam  is  properly  wrung,  it  should  be  hung 
on  smooth  poles,  in  tlie  following  manner  : — 

Open  the  bunches,  shake  2 or  3 of  them  on  the 
hands  lightly  and  hang  them  the  whole  length  on  the 
poles,  far  enough  apart  when  spread  to  fill  them  ; and 
when  these  bunches  are  parted  into  skeins,  they  should 
be  so  far  from  each  other  that  5 pounds  will  require  2 
poles  of  8 feet  in  length.  The  yam  being  now  divi- 
ded, begin  by  opening  the  ties  of  the  skein  flat,  and 
then  snap  and  strain  it  a little  on  the  pole,  keeping  the 
skein  thin  and  flat  : so  proceed  with  all  tlie  skeins. 

Dry  them  in  the  warm  weather  out  of  doors  in  open 
air,  but  in  winter  in  a warm  room,  as  freezing  will  in- 
jure tlie  sizing  materially.  By  following  the  above  di- 
rections, you  will  be  able  to  wind  the  finest  yam  with 
case. 


Winding  the  Yarn. 

This  is  a simple  operation,  but  it  is  easy  to  perplej^ 
the  warper  by  conducting  it  in  a careless  manner.  This 
branch  is  generally  performed  as  it  properly  should  be 
by  small  children,  that  expense  may  be  saved,  and  they 
frequently  run  the  yam  on  in  bunches,  in  a promiscu- 
ous manner  ; this,  as  we  have  just  observed,  has  a bad 
effect  in  warping.  In  fact,  if  it  is  wound  on  the  spools 
carlessly  it  has  a bad  effect  even  in  weaving  the  piece. 
Children  should  be  taught  to  begin  at  one  end  of  the 
spool  and  wind  evenly  to  the  otlier,  and  so  backwards 
and  forwards  until  finished.  Tehere  is  even  an  advan- 
tage to  the  winder  in  paying  attntion  to  this,  as  when  the 
thread  breaks,  he  knows  at  once  n here  to-  look  for  k. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


35 


Warping, 

To  perform  this  branch  well,  it  is  necessaiy  that  tlie 
spools  should  all  be  of  a size,  and  that  the  sticks  which 
they  turn  upon  be  straight  and  smooth.  It  is  in  vain 
for  us  to  attemnt  to  manufacture  cloths  witli  neatness, 
if  we  neglect  to  provide  utensils  that  are  made  in  a pro- 
per manner,  as  we  often  find  that  by  using  even  one 
implement  that  is  not  bi  order,  it  will  materially  injure 
the  whole  ^vork. 

For  an  example  in  warpmg,  you  will  take  24  spools 
witli  4 skeins  on  a spool ; calculated  for  60  yards  of 
shirting  No  11,  which  you  will  find  stated  in  the  calcu- 
lations to  make  out  pieces — place  them  on  the  scallet 
frame  in  two  tiers,  having  the  first  spool  on  the  lower 
division  of  sticks,  2 or  3 inches  farther  to  the  right 
than  the  first  spool  of  the  upper  row,  and  so  on 
with  the  rest.  You  naust  observe  to  have  the  yam 
ends  on  the  right  handl^ide  of'  tlie  spools,  as  you  stand 
facing  the  frame. 

Next  collect  all  the  ends  and  tie  a knot  in  them  j 
tlien  draw  the  threads  straight,  and  put  your  right  hand 
.through  the  division  of  threads  close  up  to  the  knot, 
tlien  put  your  left  hand  thumb  m the  openmg,  placing 
the  ball  of  the  thumb  close  to  the  knot. 

Next  form  the  lease  with  your  right  hand,  begm- 
nmg  to  collect  the  threads  about  the  same  distance  as 
the  pins  on  the  bars  are  from  your  left  hand.  First  take 
the  lower  thread  on  the  bottom  division,  bemg  under 
side  of  your  right  hand  and  over  the  thumb ; next  of 
the  upper  division,  upper  side  of  your  hand  and  imder 
your  thurhb,  and  so  on  until  you  have  taken  up  all  the 
threads.  The  new  begmner  ought  to  count  the  threads 
as  he  takes  them,  otherwise  there  will  be  room  to  err. 
The  lease  will  then  be  laid  on  the  pins  on  the  top  of  the 
bars  or  mill,  just  as  you  have  it  bi  your  right  hand,  by 
partmg  the  lease  between  the  right  and  left  hand,  up 
to  the  knot  on  the  end  of  the  piece.  Should  you  use 


S6  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

a warping  mill,  you  will  now  turn  it  roimd  with  the 
sun  until  you  warp  60  yards,  which  is  the  length ; 96 
skeins  will  make  | of  a yard  wide,  when  wove  and 
bleached.  | 

Should  you  use  the  common  w’arping  bars,  you  will  j 
warp  backwards  and  forwards,  running  the  yarn  from 
one  pin  to  the  other  downwards,  until  you  get  60  yards. 

In  either  manner  of  warping,  when  you  get  the  length 
that  is  desired;  cross  the  bouts  on  the  bottom  pins, 
then  proceed  back  again,  when  you  will  again  take  the 
lease  as  before,  and  lay  it  on  the  twn  lease  pins  and 
carry  the  branches  on  to  the  farther  pin  and  cross  them ; 
stUl  saving  the  lease  in  the  hand  to  put  on  the  pins 
again.  You  will  then  proceed  again  as  before,  back- 
w^ards  and  forwards,  until  you  get  25  bouts  or  50  half 
bouts,  being  1200  threads. 

In  the  next  place  secure  the  lease  by  tying  a string 
through  each  part  of  it  two  or  three  times,  and  tie  the 
end  of  the  piece  at  the  bottom  of  the  bars  in  a similar 
manner — then  take  the  piece  off  from  the  bars,  taking 
tlie  lease  off  first ; beginning  as  follow's  : — Put  your 
arm  through  the  loop  that  was  formed  betw^een  the 
pins,  then  draw  wdth  the  arm  the  piece  a little  way 
through  that  loop,  w'hich  forms  another ; through  which 
wnth  the  otlier,  hand  you  form  another  and  so  on  until 
you  finish  it,  ready  for  beaming. 


Ha?  mess. 

It  is  necessary  that  the  harness  should  be  starched  or 
dressed  before  weaving  each  piece,  which  is  done  in  the 
following  manner.  Fix  a strong  cord  with  a weight 
to  it  no  the  bottom  cords,  that  lead  from  the  har- 
ness downw^ards,  so  that  one  harness  will  be  single  as  it 
hangs  in  tlie  loom. 

Take  2 eggs  and  as  much  in  quantity  of  w^heat-fiour 
starch,  newly  made  but  cold,  andbeattlieiji  well  togeth- 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


37 


er.  Should  tlie  harness  be  made  of  cotton,  which  is  the 
best  for  rveaving  of  cotton,  you  will  do  well  in  that  case 
to  add  to  your  starch  a tea  spoonful  of  melted  glue,  then 
beat  it  well  together  and  brush  the  harness  with  it  evenly 
for  some  time ; taking  care  not  to  get  it  very  wet.  Now 
change  tlie  clasps  if  you  use  that  kind  of  hamess,and  brush 
it  over  arain,  then  putarod  in  each  partingnext  to  the  eye 
and  let  them  remain  until  dry  with  the  weight  on.— 
When  it  is  dry,  change  the  weight  to  another  one,  and 
so  on : after  which  hang  them  out  of  the  way. 


Beaming. 

First  take  the  warped  piece  and  lay  it  on  the  floor 
under  the  yam  beam ; then  take  the  thrum  end  and  car- 
y it  under  the  cloth  beam,  over  the  breast  beam,,  and 
i^ough  the  lathe  : put  through  the  thrum  rod  and  se- 
:ure  it,  then  place  the  bouts  in  the  raddle  about  32  or 
33  inches  wide,  for  shirting,  being  about  5 inches 
Mder  than  it  will  be  when:<>voye. 

You  will  now  place  the, .thrum  rod  and  yam  at  an 
iqual  distance  from  each  end  of  the  beam  or  posts,  and 
proceed  to  wind  the  yam  hard  on  the  beam,  keeping 
t perfectly  smooth  and  free  from  ridges.  As  a reme- 
ly  against  ridges,  move  the  raith  or  raddle  moderately 
)ackwards  and  forwards  at  different  periods  in  the 
course  of  beaming.  The  person  who  holds  the  yarn 
vhile  beaming,  should  not  let  it  slip  through  his  hands 
)ut  should  go  hand  over  hand  once  m a foot,  and  strike 
t occasionally,  minding  not  to  let  it  twist  between  his 
lands,  and  so  proceed  until  it  is  all  wound  on. 

The  top  of  the  beamed  piece  should  be  about  the 
ame  width  that  it  will  be  in  the  reed. 


Drawing  ihroiigh  the  lumiess. 

Most  persons  who  have  been  accustomed  to  use 


38 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


both  the  2 and  4 shaft  harness  for  plain  cloth,  prefer 
the  latter ; and  we  think  it  is  much  the  best,  as  it  di- 
vides the  piece  into  4 parts,  and  causes  it  to  spring  with 
more  ease,  and  is  less  liable  to  break  threads.  For  a 
person  who  has  never  seen  this  kind  of  harness  In  ope- 
ration for  plain  work,  it  would  be  more  difficult  to  keep 
it  in  order  than  the  2 shaft  harness,  but  by  weaving  one 
or  two  pieces,  the  difficulty  would  be  removed. 

The  four  shafts  being  placed  of  an  equal  height,  you 
will  then  hang  the  raith  or  raddle  level,  and  so  high  as  to 
have  the  lease  2 or  3 inches  above  the  eyes  or  clasps  m 
the  harness. 

In  the  next  place  put  the  rods  through  the  lease,  and 
fasten  the  rods  at  the  end  with  a string ; then  cut  the 
string  that  secures  the  lease,  and  also  the  thrums : then 
knot  up,  and  it  is  ready  for  drawing  through  the  harness. 

First  begin  to  draw  tlie  threads  through  at  the  right 
hand,  thus — ZITJZZIZZ  and  so  on  through  the 

whole  piece. 

The  raddle  is  now  to  be  taken  apart,  and  the  threads 
drawn  through  the  slaie,  first  measuring  the  slaie  by  the 
harness.  Begin  to  draw  at  the  same  distance  from  the  j 
end  of  the  slaie,  as  you  suppose  it  will  come  out  at  tlie  j 
other  end.  The  piece  is  now  to  be  tied  on  the  rod  as 
even  as  possible,  and  the  treadle  cords  attached  to  tlie 
harness. 


On  making  a harness^ 

After  the  sticks  are  ready  and  marked  into  beers,  as 
a guide  to  knit  on  the  twins  for  a harness,  you  will  make 
the  holes  for  the  cords  to  go  through  those  shafts  that 
are  calculated  for  the  top  ones,  at  an  equal  distance  from 
the  ends,  say  5 inches  from  each  end  for  the  top  shafts, 
and  6 or  7 inches  from  the  end,  for  the  bottom  shafts. 
These  shafts  should  be  made  of  an  exact  length  before 
they  are  niarked.  The  4 top  ones  should  be  all  mar- 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


39 


ked  across  them  at  once,  also  the  4 bottom  ones.  The 
holes  must  be  made  exactly  opposite  each  other,  other- 
wise the  harness  will  not  spring  true.  The  cords  con- 
nected with  tlie  two  front  wings  or  harness,  will  now  be 
attached  to  the  front  short  lamb,  (some  weavers  use 
short  lambs  only)  and  the  back  wings  with  tlie  other. 
The  cords  attached  to  these  lambs,  goes  one  between 
the  long  lambs,  and  the  other  outside  of  them. 


Weaving. 

It  is  believed  that  weavers  who  are  in  the  practice  of 
making  the  cloth  rough  and  uneven,  do  not  consider 
that  there  is  a great  difference  in  the  value  of  two  pieces 
of  cloth,  of  an  equal  weight  and  fineness,  but  differ- 
ing materially  in  smoothness  and  eA'enness  : but  we 
have  frequently  known  this  difference  to  be  more  than 
half  the  price  of  weaving  a yard  of  cloth. 

We  shall  now  point  out  to  the  new^  beginner,  a few 
rules  which  if  strictly  attended  to,_he  may  be  sure  of 
making  smooth  and  even  cloth.  After  the  cords  be- 
longing to  the  lambs  and  those  connected  with  the  top 
of  die  harness  are  made  - even,  and  of  an  equal  tight- 
ness, you  will  be  ready  for  w^eaving. 

When  the  treadle  is  trod  down  as  far  as  you  intend, 
the  instant  it  is  down  you  must  bring  the  lathe  up  to  the 
cloth ; that  is  you  must  have  die  lathe  strike  exactly  at 
the  time  of  bringing  down  the  treadle : this  you  will 
find  w ill  have  a good  effect  to  produce  a handsome  sel- 
vage, and  smooth,  even  clodi.  Should  the  above  mle 
not  be  attended  to,  especially  if  die  harness  is  hung  low, 
or  the  yam  beam  too  high,  it  wnuld  often  cause  the  up- 
per side  of  the  wnrp,  w hen  die  foot  is  down,  to  be  slack ; 
this  would  give  the  thread  of  filling  which  you  close,  a 
chance  of  crowding  rather  on  the  top  of  the  last  one. 
This  is  one  of  the  principal  causes  of  cloth  being  in 
fows  or  as  many  weavers  terra  it,  rowey. 


40 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


There  is  also  another  particular  reason  why  cloth  is 
wove  uneven,  w'hich  is  by  not  paying  a right  attention 
to  striking  the  lathe  after  stopping,  from  changing  the 
bobbin  or  quill,  or  other  reasons.  After  changing  the 
bobbin  or  quill,  it  is  necessary  that  you  strike  the  lathe 
once  in  the  last  shade,  and  once  in  the  shade  you  in- 
tend to  throw  the  shuttle  tlirough,  before  you  shoot  the 
shuttle  again. 

When  the  temples  are  shifted,  tliey  must  not  be  pla- 
ced nearer  than  one  inch  from  the  yam,  and  should  be 
shifted  once  in  about  three  inches. 

When  the  piece  is  let  down,  care  should  be  taken 
that  the  lathe  should  be  brought  to  with  that  suitable 
force  that  w ill  produce  the  same  thickness  of  clotli,  as 
w hen  it  is  near  the  harness. 


Obsei'vatims  m wool. 

Farmers  in  taking  the  wool  from  the  sheep,  should 
be  careful  to  keep  tlie  v ool  together  as  much  as  possi- 
ble, and  to  avoid  cutting  the  Iwrl  or  fibres  of  the  wool 
t\vice,  as  the  short  wool  ^■.iil  be  wasted. 

In  putting  up  the  fleece,  it  w ill  be  proper  to  crowd 
it  in  as  small  a compass  as  possible ; tlien  throw  in  the 
edges  and  roll  it  up  as  small  as  possible  without  taer- 
ing.  In  this  w ay  the  fleece  is  kept  together,  so  tliat  in 
assorting,  it  will  be  found  easy  to  the  assorter. 


Jlssoitbig  wool. 

To  perform  this  work  with  exactness,  it  w ill  be  prop- 
er to  attend  to  the  follow  ing  directions.  In  the  first 
place  prepare  two  or  more  l3oards  plained  smooth  ; place 
diem  in  die  fciTn  of  a bench  or  table,  sufficiently  ivide 
to  contain  the  fleece  w hen  spread  out.  When  it  is  fixed 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


41 


in  this  manner,  undo  your  fleece  carefully,  first  with  the 
outside  down,  then  tui'n  your  fleece  over  and  make 
3'^our  choice. 

It  is  well  to  make  4 sorts,  but  3 will  answer  in  many 
cases.  Begin  bylaking  the  coarsest  first,  which  you 
will  find  at  the  extremity  of  the  hind  quarters  of  the 
fleece,  being  the  fourth  quality. 

In  the  next  place,  take  off  the  neck,  rump,  and  belly 
part  for  your  third  quality. 

Next  take  off  the  shoulders,  and  a narrow  strip  down 
through  the  back,  and  so  on  to  the  hips  and  flank  part 
for  your  second  quality,  leaving  the  sides  for  the  finest 
part  or  first  quality. 

In  assorting  the  wool,  be  careful  to  keep  tlie  different 
qualities  of  the  wool  separate  from  each  other,  for 
should  you  mix  one  lock  of  the  coarse  wool  with  the 
fine,  it  will  be  much  to  the  disadvantage  of  the  cloth, 
particularly  as  to  its  bejfdty : or  should  j'ou  mix  fine 
wool  with  the  coarse,:;tIie’ greatest  part  of  the  fine  u'ould 
work  out. in  going  through  the  different  operations  in 
manufacturing  it  into  yana  ahd  cloth. 

In  preparing  3^oiw^\(  oql  lb.r  different  pieces  of  cloth 
j'ou  must  be  particular'  in-  following  these  directions. 

If  you  have  fine  wool  soifieient  to  make  a piece 
of  cloth  the  lengrth  you  wi^h,  you  will  then  make  use 
of  it  for  tvarp  and  filling ; but  if  j'ou  have  not,  then 
STiake  use  of  your  first  quality  fiir  the  fillmg,  and  the 
SJ^econd  quality  of  wool  for  the  warp. 

By  proceeding  in  this  way  it  will  be  difficult  for  tb<“ 
best  judges  to  discover  the  difference  in  t^° 
and  you  will  easily  discover  tlie  prr"'-  ’ 
remarks,  by  paying  attp*'*'  quality* 

low.  -.uontn-,r‘*'’''>f*"»bove 

- =>  l=w  words  that  fo|. 

Inspmnmg^Sd,  in  weaving,  napping 


49  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

First,  your  fine  wool  should  be  of  the  best  quality 
fOT  filling — second,  spin  your  filling  as  slack  as  it  will 
bear  and  follow  the  shuttle— third,  for  20  pounds  of 
warp,  use  28  pounds  of  filling. 

In  following  this  last  rule,  you  will  find  that  no  grea- 
ter proportion  of  weight  of  filling  will  finally  be  Icti  in 
the  body  of  the  cloth  than  warp,  as  die  finishing  and 
dressing  is  from  the  filling. 


Cleansing  of  Wool. 

For  the  purpose  of  cleansmg  wool,  you  must  pre- 
pare an  iron  kettle  of  40  or  50  gallons,  near  a stream 
of  water,  where  you  can  rinse  the  wool  as  soon  as  it 
comes  out  of  the  kettle. 

For  factories  it  will  be  proper  to  fix  a wooden  box  3 
or  4 feet  square,  set  in  a sitiihtfen  so  that  a stream  of 
water  can  run  through  it,  for  iiie  use  of  rinsing  the 
wool  when  taken  from  the  kettl^.^ 

For  families  a comnion  ketfle  Avill  tuiswer,  and 
a basket  for  rinsing.  . 

In  the  first  place  fill  the  kettle  two  thirds  full  of  wa- 
ter and  one  third  of  urine,  tliat  which  is  old  if  you  can 
get  it.  You  will  then  heat  this  liquor  as  warm  as  you 
can  bear  your  hand  in  it  for  one  or  2 seconds  ivithout 
scalding.  Then  put  5*or  6 pounds  of  ivool  loosely  in- 
to it  and  keep  it  turning  round  for  6 or  8 minutes,  or 
perhaps  longer.  You  may  ascertain  when  it  has  been 
ia  long  enough  by  often  squeezing  it  with  your  hand, 
if  the  grease  starts,  and  the  wool  appears  loose  and 
deal',  it  has  been  in  a sufficient  time. 

The  wool  is  then  to  be  taken  out  upon  a boai'd, 
which  must  be  placed  on  the  edge  of  the  kettle  for  the 
purpose  of  draining  it,  and  saving  die  liquor.  As 
soon  as  it  is  sufficiently  drained,  rinse  die  wool  until  it 
runs  off  quite  clear.  The  wanner  the  wool  is,  when 
put  in  to  rinse  it  the  better. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT, 


43 


You  will  then  add  a second  time,  6 or  8 pounds  of 
wool,  and  proceed  as  before  mentioned ; then  add 
some  fresh  water  to  the  kettle,  and  continue  scouring 
and  rinsing  through  the  da)\ 

Next  morning  skim  off  Ae  greasy  substance  that  ri- 
ses on  the  top  of  the  liquor,  and  heat  and  replenish  it 
by  adding  4 or  5 gallons  of  urine,  then  fill  it  up  with 
fresh  water. 

The  liquor  when  it  is  5 or  6 days  old  is  preferable  to 
new  : never  throw  au  ay  the  liquor,  in  time  of  clean- 
sing, unless  it  sliould  stand  for  two  or  three  months  in 
the  summer  without  being  used. 

When  the  liquor  is  new,  it  will  be  w'ell  to  put  into 
40  or  50  gallons,  about  6 or  8 ounces  of  pearlash  or 
potash. 

^ ,'Should  the  wool  not  be  perfectly  clean,  as  it  will  not 
sometimes  in  full  .blooded  merino  wool,  you  will  in 
that  case  add  | of  a pound  of  fuller’s  earth,  in  the 
first  place,  and  afterw^ards  a little  at  a time  through  the 
day.  Dry  your  wool  thoroughly  after  rinsing,  in  a clean 
place 


and' it  is  fit  for  Cardins'. 

O 


On  Carding  of  Wool. 


It  is  of  tlie  greatest  importance  that  wool  should  be 
properly  carded,  in  order  to  manufacture  it  right  ; on 
this  depends  the  evemiess  of  the  yam,  and  in  some 
measure  the  durability  of  the  cloth.  If  it  should  not 
be  carded  Vvell,  it  is  impossible  to  make  good  yam,  and 
consequently  the  cloth  made  from  it,  will  be  rather  of 
an  inferior  quality. 

Wool  must  be  in  the  first  place  prepared  in  a proper 
manner  for  the  machine,  in  order  to  produce  good  rolls. 
It  should  be  well  sorted,  and  fine  w'ool  should  be  clean- 
sed from  all  grease : it  should  then  be  run  through  the 
picker,  and  spread  on  the  floor  for  oiling.  Take  for 
every  10  pounds  of  w'ool  one  quart  of  oi^  and  with  a 


44 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


water-pot  (such  as  is  used  for  whitening)  or  w'ith  the 
hand  sprinkle  the  oil  evenly  on  the  wool.  Olive  oil  is 
to  be  preferred,  as  it  works  the  most  free.  Neats  foot 
is  the  next  best,  winter  Sperm,  oil  the  next^  and  sum- 
mer do.  the  next. 

After  it  is  oiled  it  should  go  through  the  picker 
again.  If  it  is  the  finest  of  wooll,  it  should  be  roke 
or  carded  twice  ; the  first  time  of  carding  it  should  not 
be  fed  on  the  machine  more  than  one  third  or  fourth  as 
heavy  as  it  would  require  to  make  rolls.  After  this 
you  can  proceed  to  make  rolls.  Coarse  or  common 
wool  does  not  require  §o  much  oil  as  fine— neither  does 
it  want  breaking,  except  when  worked  in  mixtures.  In 
making  mixtures,  particular  care  must  be  taken  to  have 
the  colors  well  mixed.  They  shbuM  be  picked  sepa- 
rately, and  then  a laying'of  one  kind  spread  upon  th^ 
floor,  near  the  feeding  table  of  the  picker,  and  the  oth- 
er color  or  colors,  spread  even  upbn  the  first ; so 
continue  spreading  one  laying  on  the  top  of  the  other, 
until  you  have  spread  the  whole. ..  Then  take  from  the 
top  laying  down  to  the  floor,  as'inuch  as  you  can  en- 
close under  one  arm,  and  wiffi  the  odier  hand  feed  it  on 
the  picker.  After  it  is  picked,  oil  as  before  directed ; 
then  pick  it  twice  more.  After  this  it  ^ould  be  broke, 
then  picked  again : you  will  then  take  a small  lock, 
and  by  working  it  in  your  hand -with  a little  soap,  will 
mat  it  together  ; by  this  it  will  be  readily  perceived 
whetlier  it  is  mixed  even  or  not.  If  it  is  mixed  even, 
you  will  then  proceed  to  make  rolls  of  it ; but  if  not 
it  must  be  broke  again.  To  find  whether  rolls  are 
good  or  not,  take  up  one  or  more  and  look  through  to 
the  light;  if  well  carded  they  will  be  perfectly  clear, 
and  by  stretching  them,  the  harle  or  fibres  v.  ill  draw 
out  to  their  full  lengtli. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT.  45 

On  Spinning  JVool. 

Spinning  is  a branch  of  manufacture,  that  requires  a 
strict  attention,  and  a steady  hand  to  perform  it  well. 
By  observing  tlie  directions  hereafter  mentioned,  spin- 
ners will  find  it  to  their  advantage. 

1st.  To  spin  fine  yam,  or  that  which  is  80  knots  to 
the  pound,  on  a common  Jenny,  with  a stretch  of  six 
feet,  have  your  ropings  as  fine  as  to  take  up  2 feet  3 or 
4 inches  of  the  stretch  ; then  shut  in  your  ropings  and 
begin  drawing  your  thread  with  as  much  twist  as  the 
tliread  will  bear  and  not  break. 

Should  you,  after  taking  *the  twist  from  the  roping, 
draw  your  thread  with  too  little  twist,  it  would  draw  in- 
to fine  places,  and  become  rough  and  uneven. 

2d.  Spinners  should  use  the  greatest  care  in  build- 
ing their  copps,  or  broaches  j if  they  are  careless  in 
that  particular,  the  expense  of  windii^  and  waste  of 
yam,  becomes  so  gi'eat  ^a^'.to  take  off  a considerable 
share  of  the  profits.  - To  avoid , this,  begin  rimning  the 
yam  as  low  down  as  the  Spindle  will  admit.  Spread 
the  yam  no  wider  tlian'  pile  ii^h,  in  the  first  place  ; you 
will  then  keep  the  copp,  or  broach,  as  large  as  conven- 
ient, observing'  not  to  rUn  tlie  thread  below  the  largest 
part,  keeping  your  copps  in  a proper  form,  until  finished, 
so  that  the  thread  will  rrm  from  tlie  top  end,  as  from  a 
bobbin.  Copps  or  broaches  properly  made,  are  pre- 
feired  to  spools  for  warping ; they  are  likewise  allow- 
ed to  be  better  for  winding  from  for  bobbins  and  quills 
than  from  skeins  or  reeled  yarn. 


Warping  of  Woollen. 

For  the  purpose  of  Warping,  bars  should  be  prefer- 
red, in  particular  to  warp  woollen  yam  from  cops  or 

F 2 


46 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


broaches;  a mill  in  other  cases  will  answer  an  equal 
purpose,  and  by  many  would  be  preferred. 

To  waip  a woollen  web,  20  spools  or  cops  is  a suffi- 
cient number  for  a set.  Begin  at  the  top  to  take  your 
lease,  by  first  making  a knot  at  the  ends ; run  yom- 
hand  through  the  division  of  your  Spools  or  cops,  quite 
up  to  the  knot : then  place  your  left  hand  thumb  through 
this  division,  drawing  the  knot  close  down  to  tlie  ball 
of  the  thumb. 

In  the  next  place  with  your  right  hand,  begin  taking 
the  lease  at  about  the  distance  the  pins  in  the  bars  are 
from  your  left  hand.  First  take  the  lower  tliread  on 
the  bottom  division,  being  under  side  of  your  right  hand, 
and  over  the  thumb ; next  of  the  upper  division,  upper 
side  of  your  hand  and  under  your  thumb,  and  so  on  un- 
til you  have  taken  up  all  the  threads. 

You  will  now  lay  up  your  lease  as  you  have  it  in  the 
right  hand ; then  draw  Jtlie  ■ le^se- taken  between  your 
right  and  left  hand  out’  ;(,o.  the  knot,,  in  the  first  end  of 
your  piece.  The  next  lease  vQu  -will  take  in  the  same 
way,  by  saying  the  lease  that  is  drawn  out  in  the  begin- 
ning; lay  your  lease  as^u  KoM  thhm.in  your  hand  on 
the  pins,  excepting  the  firitt,  Avhtch  you  will  lay  on  the 
division  that  is  on  your  thumb,  oyer  the  first  pin  in  going 
up : then  draw  your  lease  and  the  lower  division  comes 
at  the  top;  tlren  carry  it  straight  over  to  the  thumb  pin, 
by  bringing  the  two  divisions,  one  down,  and  the  other 
up ; then  turn  your  right  hand  up  as  in  the  first  place, 
rvhich  crosses  the  divisions  between  the  thrum  pins  : 
then  lay  the  upper  division  over  the  last  pin  as  you  go 
down,  by  having  the  lease  right  in  the  lease  pins. 

Sizing  of  Woollen^ 

AS  PRACTICED  IN  THE  FACTORIES. 

For  20  pounds  of  woollen  warp,  dissolve  in  12  quarls 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


47 


nf  unter  2^  pounds  of  best  Irish  glue  in  a pot  or  kettle 
moderate  fire,  by  stirring  it  often  to  keep  .t  from 

stickinff  or  burning  at  the  bottom.  „ , , 

mfn  it  is  dissolved,  prepare  a tub  perfectlpmooth 
so  to  your  yam  maybe  kept  m good  ordei  ; then 
pouf  olfVr  glue  liquor  one  third  part  of  it  mto  the 

^^^Beein  at  the  knot  dirumbs  of  your  warped  piece,  by 
curto  it  round  iir  the  bottom  of  your  tub  and  pressing 
h do  at  the  same  tme,  until  you  have  got  one  third 

;L*  bou?m'^side  up,  and  be  careful  *at  all  your 
is  wet  having;  the  glue  liquor  so  warm  as  not  to  scald. 
Y^will  nol  begil  at  the  end  of  the  web  wrmg 
bv  taking  one  hand  over  the  other,  until  all  the  first 
I wrung,  which  must  be  taken  oiRside  of  he 
\v  etting  I ng..  Then  add  a third  part  of  the 

Sue  liquor  again,  and  alp  a thW  part  of  the  yarn,  and 
nroceed  as  before,,  until  it  is  alLwet  and  \yrung.  Ob- 
Ce  to^ingit  hotodeRthan^Feventit  from  drain- 

“"^You  will  then  spriad  yom  yfim  upon^a  stretch,  out 
of  tors,  keeping  it  frofti  jre  ^ound;  ^en  ^un  your 
raith  or  raddle  throngH^  it,  af  you  would  m beaming , 

then  take  out  Your  mith  to  'dry  it.  , 

When  it  is  dry'  see.  that  your  knots  or  bouts  are  even, 
anto  a small  stog  • around  the  web,  once  in  about 
five  yards  of  each  other ; then  chain  it  up,  to  it  is  ready 

for  beaming. 

Beaming  the  Web. 

In  order  to  prepare  for  this  operation  you  must  have 
the  SXoStop  Lm  which  is  over  the  seat  of  your 
loom^made  sraLth;  carry  °f  *e  w-eb  ^verthB 

girth,  and  bring  it  dot™  on  the  yam  b«am’ ^ 
j-our  rod  prepared  for  that  purpose  mto  the  lease.  You 


48 


IMANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


will  next  place  the  knots  or  bouts  in  the  raithor  raddle 
the  widtii  you  will  have  your  cloth,  by  cai-efully  obser- 
ving  that  you  have  the  piece  equally  divided  in  the 
M icltli  ot  the  loom. 

In  die  next  place  you  ivill  proceed  to  wind  on  your 
piece,  keeping  the  yam  perfectly  smooth  on  die  beam, 
so  tliat  there  shall  be  no  iinei'en  places  or  ridges  Should 
you  be  careless  in  that  respect,  and  suffer  the  bouts  to 
drop  into  the  hollows,  the  yam  while  weaying  will  part 
ol  It  become  loose,  and  shew  the  effect  of  it  in  the  flan- 
nel. As  a remedy  against  this,  moye  your  raith  mode- 
rately backwards  and  forwards,  at  different  period*^  in 
the  course  of  beaming.  When  it  is  nearly  all  vyound 
on,  place  m your  lease  rods,  and  tie  the  ends  together 
so  that  the  lease  will  be  safe;  then  put  in  a st>ff  rod 
through  your  thrumbs,  spread  the  piece  on  this  rod,  and 
make  fast  a cord  fo  the  rod,  to  hold  the  remaining  part 
or  the  web,  and  finish  beaming,  ° ^ 

You  will  then  hahg  up  the  raith  or  raddle  nearly  oyer 
the  harness,  cut  your  tfirums  and  bring  your  lease  rods 
leyel ; then  knot  up  the  ends,  and  it  is  ready  for  draw- 


me 

o 


Weaving  Woollen. 

Weaying  is  an  important  part  ofmanufacturingtroods. 
1 he  cloth  should  be  well  m^de  by  the  iveayer 'otlier- 
wise  it  cannot  afterwards  be  rliade  good.  It  is  a mista- 
ken  idea  that  m^y  people  assume,  that  flannel  should 
be  rnade  thin.  ^V-^en  flannels  are  made  in  this  manner 
It  IS  irnpossible  lor  the  clothier  to  giye  satisfaction,  as  it 
lastly  devolyes  on  him ; he  is  reproached  for  some  mis- 
management, and  many  times  when  he  is  entirely  blame- 
less. 

Fl^inels  for  fulled  cloth,  should  be  made  as  stout  as 
possible  by  the  weayer ; at  least  they  should  put  in  of 
filling  one  quarter  more  than  waip. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


49 


* It  may  be  supposed  by  many  that  the  same  quantity 
of  wooll  thus  wove,  will  not  produce  the  same  proportion 
or  number  of  yards  of  cloth  when  fulled,  as  if  wove  thin; 
but  this  is  a mistake  r it  should  be  considered  that  it 
requires  less  fulling  than  when  othenvise  done. 

It  is  no  doubt  noticed  by  many,  that  domestic  made 
cloth  when  worn  thread  bare,  the  thread  has  the  appear- 
ance of  a kink ; this  is  owing  to  the  flannel  being  wove 
thin,  which  requires  so  much  fulling  before  it  arrives  at 
a suitable  thickness,  that  the  threads  become  crooked 
and  knotty. 

Should  your  cloth  be  wove  thick,  with  the  threads 
brought  firm' and  close  one  with  another,  the  cloth  when 
^vom  thread  bare,  will  appear  nearly  as  smooth  and 
himdsome  as  in  the  first  \^-ear  of  it. 


On  preparing  the  filling  for  Windhig.. 

If  you  will  have  a good  piece  of  flannel,  Avet  your 
bobbins  or  quills  in  weak  soap  'Suds, .and  be  sure  to  have 
your  filling  thoroughly  wet. 

To  do  this  in  a pfoper.  manner,  take  a small  quill  or 
tube,  6 or  8 inches  long,  and,  place  the  tube  fairly  upon 
the  bobbin  or  quill,  while  holding  it  under  the  suds  li- 
quor, when  by  sucking  the.  air  out  the  yam,  it  will  wet 
Avith  the  greatest  ease.  • ' 


Raith  or  Raddle. 

Some  attention  is  necessary  to  be  paid  to  this  instru- 
ment, for  beaming  your  piece.  For  broad  weaving, 
you  will  have  the  raith  the  full  width  you  wish  your 
cloth,  whether  eleven  quarters  or  under.  Calculate  the 
teeth  w'ithin  that  distance  to  take  up  a web  of  a mid- 
dling fineness,  by  placing  every  half  bout  bedveen  each 
of  those  teeth.  In  w^ebs,  finer  or  coarser,  wfliere  you 


50 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


i 


have  occasion  to  place  your  bouts  or  half  bouts,  ir 
double  or  skipping  teeth,  be  careful  to  divide  the  hall 
knots  or  bouts  at  such  distances,  as  to  give  an  even  pro-  * 
portion,  in  spreading  the  yam  on  the  beam  properly. — 
This  utensil  being  of  a simple  construction,  it  will  re- 

Jiiire  but  a few  words  to  direct  how  it  should  be  m.ade. 
n the  first  place,  plane  a stick  smooth,  one  and  a hall 
inches  square.  After  ascertaining  the  number  of  teeth 
you  will  w'ant,  set  them  within  the  distance  you  want 
your  cloth,  by  dividing  the  distance  with  a pair  of  com- 
passes or  dividers,  hav'ng  them  the  size  of  a quill,  and 


2|  or  3 inches  in  length ; then  frame  in  a couple  of 


posts  at  each  end,,  with-  tenons  for  a cap  piece,  which 
last  must  be  grooved  out  to  set  on  the  ends  of  the  teeth. 


having  small  pins  to  keep  it  t^,its  place,  and  it  is  finish- ' 


ed. 


Jfiemmg  Draft. 

. , V • 

Before  we  conrHrqence  giving  directions,  as  it  respects 
the  various  drafts  • wlfich  follow,  k will  be  proper  to 
give  some  explanation ‘gf * terms^  th^t  are  used;  which 
will  ansv/er  for  ti  guide  in  many  respects  for  all  the 
drafts  in  our  work,  i?  strict  attention  is  paid  to  the  sub- 
ject.  ■ , ; 

A short  cord,  is  a cora  fixed  to  the  long  lam  and 
treadle ; this  cord  raises  up  a wing  or  shaft  of  the  har- 
ness, w'hen  the  weaver  treads  the  treadle,  to  v hich  it  is 
attached. 

A long  cord,  is  a cord  that  is  fixed  to  the  short  lam, 
and  passes  between  the  long  lams,  and  connects  with 
the  treadle : when  this  treadle  is  trod,  it  pulls  down  a 
part  of  the  wings  of  the  harness. 

Wings  of  the  harness,  are  a number  of  shafts,  on  which 
are  worked  a kind  of  loop  with  twine  ; through  these, 
the  warp  passes.  The  wings  are  connected  with  the 
jacks  above,  and  short  lams  below,  by  the  help  of 
cords. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


51 


Long  lam,  is  a long  stick  which  is  raised  up  and 
own  while  weaving,  by  being  connected  with  the 
readle,  by  the  help  of  a short  cord.  The  long  lams 
aise  up  the  wings  when  the  treadles  are  trod  down  by 
leans  of  the  short  cords,  and  other  cords  which  follow 
*om  the  ends  of  the  long  lams  to  the  ends  of  the  jacks 
n the  top  of  die  loom.  These  jacks  are  a number  of 
ticks  which  moi'e  on  a pin  in  a frame  at  the  top  of  die 
lom. 

Short  lam,  is  similar  to  a long  lam  only  shorter,  and 
io\'es  on  another  pin  above  the  long  lams.  The  short 
inis  puil  down  the  wings  when  the  ti-eadle  is  trod  by 
lelp  of  the  long  cords ; they  should  be  placed  in  the 
lom  so  far  above  the  long  lams  .as  not  to  touch  them 
t hen  the  treadle  is  firmly  doivn. 

Draft,  is  a form  of  directions  by  which  to  commence 
nd  perform  ivork  in  weaving.  Also  in  drawing  through 
he  n arp  into  the  harness,  it  is  turned  the  draft 

Cording,  is  a name  found  in  ail  of  the  above  drafts, 
nd  made  to  distinguish  the  long  short  cords.  The 
Dng  cords  are  distinguished  by  cfossgs,  and  the  short 
ords  by  blank  spaces. 

N.  B.  The  learner  will  see'^that  the  • long  lams  can- 
lot  be  represented  in  any  of  tlie  drifts,  excepting  in 
hose  that  are  not  connected  With  the  cording ; as  for  in- 
tance  they  are  not  seen  in  draft  No.  1,  but  ai'e  in  No. 

7.  The  short  lams  are  not  to  be  seen  ip  any  of  the 
[rafts  : we  therefore  refer  the  reader  to  the  engraving, 
vhich  shews  the  tieadles,  l^ms,  wings  &c. 

The  front  wing  of  the  harness  in  tlie  following num- 
>ers  of  drafts,  will  have  knit  on  it  double  the  number  of 
lelves  that  each  of  the  other  w ings  have : and  when  draw- 
ng  there  will  be  left  out  opposite  the  figures  one  helve 
0 Uvo  threads  drawn ; viz,  in  numbers,  8,  9,  10,  12,  13 
.4,  16,  18,  19,  22,  23,  25^  and  28.. 


52 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


JVo.  I.  Bird  Eyes. 

DRAFT. 

After  the  cords  of  tiie  harness  are  made  even,  so 
that  they  will  hang  level ; you  will  then  commence 
drawing  on  the  right.  Begin  on  the  back  wing,  and 
draw  A,  B,  C,  & D,  then  leave  out  one  helve  on  the 
front  shaft  D,  next  draw  C,  B,  A,  and  the  draft  is  once 
over,  which  is  7 threads.  You  will  then  begin  again 
on  A,  and  go  over  again  as  before,  being  careful  to  put 
one  helve  on  D.  So  proceed  backwards  and  forwards 
until  all  the  the  yam  is  drawn  through  tlie  harness. 

In  the  cording  there  are  eight  long  cords  and  eight 
short  ones.  ' • 


■U  u w Hjuuumw 


c 


f 


34 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT, 

No.  1.  Bird  Eyes. 


Cording.  Draft. 

JU_! •r  — l 


III) 

" - 6 ^ 

III) 

Q*- 

1 1 1 L 

Tread  of  the  piece. 

fj  is  the  first  tread  : it  pulls  down  by  means  of  the 
two  cords  (represented  by  the  two  stars) 
wings  or  shafts,  A & D & raises  B i&  C. 

H is  the  second  tread  and  pulls  down  wings 

C & D & raises  A &.  B. 

E the  third  tread,  and  pulls  down  wings 

A & D & raises  B & C. 

G the  fourth  tread,  and  pulls ^own 

A &’  B & raises  C & D. 

F the  fifdi  tread  and  pulls  down 

A & C & raises  B & D. 

H the  sixth  tread  and  pulls  «lown 

C & D & raises  A A;  B. 

F the  seventh  tread  and  pulls  down 

A & C & raises  B & D. 

G the  eighth  tread  and' pulls  down 

A & B & raises  C & D. 

The  tread  is  now  once  over,  and  you  will  begin  a- 
gain  at  E,  and  go  over  as  before. 

This  pattern  is  wove  with  four'  wings,  four  treadles, 
and  sixteen  cords,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  draft  and  cor- 
ding. 


tread- 

les 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


55 


No.  2.  Three  Shaft  Ticking. 

Cordinsr.  Draft. 

V 

-!-!-rr! — o-|  § 


I 

I I I I 


I I I I 

mil 

mil 

£ D C B A 
1 I I I « 

ireudles. 


Tills  pattern  is  wove  with  3 wings,^5  treadles  and  15 
cords  } and  the  draft  is  represented  as  being  once  drawn 
over : you  will  next  begin  to  draw  through  the  back  wing 
F,  then  the  middle  one  G,  then  the  front  one  H,  and  so 
go  over  with  it  in  that  way  until  all  your  yarn  is  drawn 
through  the  harness.  The  learner  will  observe  that  by 
treading  thus,  A,  C,  B,  D,  C,  E,  the  draft  will  be  twice 
over,  and  the  treading  once.  Use  the  same  slaie  as  for 
plain  cloth,  and  draw  3 threads  through  a reed  or  split. 


No.  3. 


Cording. 


Four  Shaft  Ticking. 


Draft. 


This  pattern  is  wove  with  4 wings,  4 treadles,  and  16 
1 cords.  The  draft  is  represented  as  being  drawn  over  once. 
I You  will  then  begin  to  draw  over  again  as  before,  first 
through  the  back  wing  E,  then  F,  G,  H,  and  so  through 
the  piece. 

I The  treading  is  represented  by  figures.  In  the  first 
1 place  tread  figure  1,  then  2,  3,  4,  which  is  once  over  ; then 
begin  again  as  before  and  tread  figure  1,  and  so  on.  Use 
a slaie  two  beers  lower  than  for  plain  cloth,  and  draw  4 
threads  in  a reed. 


Tread- 

let 


56 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT, 


No.  4.  Elastic  Cord. 


Cording. 

I J I t I I 


Draft. 


I I 


I I 


— — o — s 

— fi  - 


(N- 
I I ' 

I 

) I I 1 

I'll 
0 : i, 

III! 

Nil 


This  pattern  is  formed  by  four  wings,  six 
treadles  and  sixteen  long  cords,  Avhich  are  rep- 
resented by  crosses  ; these  cords  connect  the 
short  lams  and  treadles.  Eight  short  cords. — 
These  are  represented  by  the  spaces  in  the 
cording  : they  connect  the  long  lams  and  trea- 
dles. See  No.  1.  Bird  eye. 

The  present  draft  as  it  appears,  is  once 
drawn  over:  thus,  first  drawn  thread  through 
wing  A,  next  C,  B,  D,  begin  again  at  A,  and 
so  go  on  as  before. 

TBEJlD. 


j j j I j Tread  first,  figure  1 ;..next,  2, 3,  4,  5,  6,  7, 8. 

treading  tlris  once  over,  is  the  draft  tu  ice 
nufi  f6.  ji'  it  is  cGj'.ded  coo'ectly,  figure  1 pulls 

douTL  v.‘ine;s  A & B ; figure  2.,„  €;  & D ; figure  3,  A B ; 
nguTC  4.,  C,  u ; ngure  5,  IV,  •tigure  6,  A,C,  1}  ; 
figure  7,  A,  B,  D ; figure  8,  A,  B,  C. 

Should  the  weaver  wi^  to. make  this  entirely  plain 
cloth,  he  can  by  using  the  two  middle  Readies  only; 
as  flh  rcted;  thus,  1,  2,  3,  4.  Use  the  same  slaie  asf&!> 
plain  cloth,  2 tlireads  in  a reed. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

No.  5.  Herring  Bone. 


57 


Cording. 

'J-'-L 

J_1J  I 

-L  * 

till 


Draft. 


I 

1 

I 


I 


04 


I I 


O 40  I 
I I 1 
: OC  i t>* 


The  figures  on  this  draft  represent  it  as  being 
drann  once  over ; you  will  then  begin  again  at 
figure  1,  and  go  over  in  the  same  manner.  There 
is  in  the  cording  to  this  draft,  8 cords  that  are  rep- 
resented by  crosses,  and  also  8 that  are  represen- 
ted by  spaces.  The  eight  that  are  distinguished 
by  crosses,  are  long  cords  that  connect  the  short 
lams  and  treadles.  The  spaces,  are  cords  con- 
necting the  long  lams  and  treadles. 


TREAD. 


If  the  cording  is  correct,  the  treadles  will  pull 
down  the  wings  as  follows:  First  tread  pulls 
'J  read-  down  wings,  figures  1 2;  second,  figures  2 & 

3 ; third,  figures  3 & 4 ;;  fourth,  1 8c  4:  fifth,  3 
8c  4 ; sixth,  2 8c  3 seventh',  1 8c  2 ; eighth,  1 8c  4. 

The  tread  is  now  once  over,  and  the  draft  twice. — 
Use  a slaie  4 beers  fiber  th^m  for  plain  cloth,  and  draw 
2 threads  in  a reed. 

G 2 * • 


58 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

;No.  6.  Six  Shaft  Twill. 


Cording. 


Mill 
Mill 
i I M 


Draft. 
_ZZZ — \ — 


s I 

II 


I ! j 

: i 1. 

i-j'i 

1 i 

I i ' i • 

lit!’ 


This  pattern  is  formed  by  6 wings  and  6 
treadles. 

The  draft  is  calculated  for  stripes,  bvo  col- 
ors in  the  warp,  and  is  represented  as  being 
once  drawn  over,  as  thus : 1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6. 
You  will  tlien  begin  again  at  1,  and  go  on  as 
before. 

In  this  cording  there  are  18  crosses,  or  long 
cords,  attached  to  the  short  lams  and  treadles, 
and  18  spaces,  or  short  cords,  which  are  at- 
tached to  long  lan^  and  treadles. 

If  tlie  cording  is  correct,  figure  1 on  the 
treadles,  which  is  ^e  firstti'ead,  pulls  down  fig. 
4,  5 8c  6,  on  the  hamSS!^  fi^re  ^ pulls  down  1,5  8c  6 ; 
figure  3,  pulls  domi  1,  2 8c  6 ; figure  4,  pulls  down  1, 
2 & 3 ; figure  5,  pulls  doU'W  2,  3 8c  4 ; figure  ^6,  3 4 
8c  5. 

You  will  use  a slaie  six  beers  finer  than  for  plain 
cloth,  and  draw  2 threads  in  a 


Treadles^ 

( I I i i 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


59 


No.  7.  Bird  Eyes  ^ Twilled. 


Cording. 

> < I I I r 

I 

I'l  I t I'l 

‘ _L*“ 


1 1 1 1 1 r 

till)' 


1- 


I I J J 

’i  ’i“i  “T  f I 





Draft. 

-8-6—- 


— 5-1  - 

---4  2 — 
-8  6 


— . M 

B Cfi 

U 1/! 

p 0) 


-2  — 
-3  — 
-4. 


— a 


rt| 

|>n 

oot." 


'readies, 

I I II  I I 


This  pattern  is  formed  witli  8 wings  in  the 
harness,  and  six  treadles.  The  draft  is  repre- 
sented as  being  drawn  once  over,  viz  : draw 
first  on  E,  tlien  F,  G,  H,  then  the  back  wing 
A,  then  on  C,  B,  C,  A,  D,  B,  D.  On  the  4 
back  \vings,  the  learner  will  percdve  we  skip 
shafts.  You  will  now  begin  again,  on  E,  and 
so  on,  according  to  the  figures  on  the  shafts 
of  the  harness ; observing  that  in  drawing  the 
pattern  once  over,  will  take  32  threads.  The 
cording  is  represented  by  12  crosses,  and  36  spa- 
ces. The  crosses  or  lopg  cords  being  attached 
to  the  short  Wilf  puli  down  a part  of  the 
wings,  while  the  spaces  or  short  cords  attached 


to  the  long  lams,  raise  the  rest  of  the  wings. 


TREAD. 


Begin  first  on  treadle  figure  1,  which  pulls  down 
wings  D,  and  E. 

next  on  figure  2, 
fig.  3, 
fig.  4, 
fig.  5, 
fig.  6, 
fig-  7, 
fig.  8,  _ 

The  treading  of  the  pattern  is  now  once  over  : begin  again  on 
fig  1,  and  go  on  as  before.  The  pattern  of  tlie  cloth  is  formed 
of  2 colors  in  the  warp,  drawn  8 and  8.  For  the  filling  you  will 
use  a different  color.  The  bird’s  eye  appears  in  tlie  filling,  and 
the  twill  in  the  warp.  Use  a slaie  4 beers  finer  than  for  plain 
cloth,  and  draw  2 threads  in  a reed.  The  warp  and  filing  are  to 
be  of  an  equal  fineness. 


pulls  down  A and  F. 
pulls  down  C and  G. 
pulls  down  A and  H. 
pulls  down  D and  E. 
pulls  down  B and  F. 
pulls  down  C and  G. 
pulls  down  B and  H. 


60 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


]So.  8.  Figured  Chambray. 

Cording.  Draft. 


4.2-4  2-4.2-4.2-4  2-4.2-2-^ 

This  pattern  is  formed  with  5 wings  and  5 
treadles.  The  draft  is  represented  as  being 
once  drawn  over,  viz  : diaw  first  on  C,  next  on 
F,  C,  E,  D,  E,  D,  E,  and  so  on  through, 
there  being  24  threads  drawn.  You  will  then 
begin  again  on  C,  as  at  first. 

The  cording  is  represented  by  12  crosses, 
and  13  spaces,  the  crosses  represent  the  long 
cords  that  connect  the  short  lams  and  treadles, 
and  the  spaces,  the  short  cords  tliat  connect  the 
long  lams  and  ti'eadles. 

TREAD. 

Begin  first  oil  ‘treadle  I,  next  on  J,  I,  J,  H,  J,  H,  J, 
and  so  on  through,  as  the  treadle  draft  directs  ; the  left 
foot  M'hen  weaving  being  continued  on  treadle  J. 

Use  a slaie  2^ers  finer  than  for  plain  clotli  and  draw 
2 threads  in  a reed. 


1 1 1 
j 

' 1 ' 
I 

I I i 

i 

I 

>4 

I 
I 


I « 


i I 

J I HGF 
treadles. 


MANUFACTURER’.S  ASSISTANT. 


61 


No.  9.  Diamonds  ^ Squares  for  Diaper. 


Cording 


Draft. 


4 3|  i 

I I I I I 

t'i 

4.| 

*^1 
V 

4| 

I I 

^1, 
ills 

'III 
2 1 

4 .S 

.1  I I 

21 


MM 

i ! i i 
1 1 1 1 1 1 
GH.I.TKL. 

treadles, 


I ■a 

I I ■ 

I II 

lU 

i 1 1 
I 


4,  2-4  2-4  2-4.  2-4.  2-4  2-4.  2-4.  2— ^ - 

This  pattern  is  formed  with  6 treadles  and  6 
wings  in  tlie  harness,  obseiwing  that  half  of  the 
threads  are  drawn  on  the  front  ndng  F.  The 
draft  represents  the  threads  being  dra^vn  once 
ovei’.  It  begins  thus  : first  drawn  thread  on  E, 
which  is  the  second  wing  from  the  front ; next 
drawn  is  F,  then  again  E,  F,  then  D,  F,  D, 
F,  C,  F,  C,  F,  B,  F,  B,  F,  A,  F,  A,  F,  B,  F, 
B,  F,  0,  F,  C,  F,  D,  F,  D,  F.  You  will  then  be- 
gin to  dra\v  again  as  before,  on  E,  F,  observing 
that  you  \\  ill  draw  32  threads,  to  form  tire  draft 
once  over. 

The  cording  is  repi'esented  by  15  crosses, 
and  21  spaces.  The  Trosses  are  shewn  for 
long  cords,  to  be  attached  to  the  short  lams, 

o ■' E . nr^ 

uv/vvij  M « ^-^4.  LilCT  i.  Il6 

spaces  represent  short  cords,  attached  to  long- 
lams,  which  raise  the  rest  of  the  u'ings. 

TEEM. 


In  the  treading,  you  will  obsen^e  to  begin  the  tread 
on  treadle  I,  then  G,  I,  G,  J,  G,  J,  G,  K,  G,  K,  G,  L, 
G,  L,  G,  and  soon,  until  the  ti-eadis  through  ; next  be- 
gin at  the  top  of  the  column  as  before,  ob.‘  er\  ing  (hat  it 
takes  32  treads  to  form  the  figure,  and  that  tire  left  foot 
while  weaving  tliis  figure  is  aln  ays  on  treadle  G,  which 
makes  the  plain  part  of  the  cloth,  nhile  the  rest  of  tlie 
treadles  make  the  flower.  Use  aslaie  2 beers  finer  than 
for  plain  cloth,  and  dra\v  2 threads  in  a reed.  The  fig- 
ure is  a diamond  of  16  blocks. 


62 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


No.  10.  Diamond  Diaper. 


Cording. 

I < I I I I 
lilt  I I 
J-  < » I «'~t 
» f I I 
t I i i I i~~ 


1 

2 

1 

1 

11 

4 

1 

1 

3 

2 

i 

4 

1 

1 

|3 

2 

1 

1 

4 

1 

1 

3 

2 

1 

4 

3 

1 

21 1 

i 

43  j 

1 

2 

1 

1 

4 

3 

1 

2 

1 

4 

3 

2 

i 

4" 

1 

1 

13 

IM 

i 

1 

li 
1 1 

Draft. 


2 2-2  2-2  2-^^-2  2-2  2-2  2-2  2 — 

This  pattern  is  formed  with  6 wings  and  6 
treadles — obser^dng  that  half  of  the  threads 
are  drawn  on  the  front  wing,  F.  The  draft  is 
represented  as  being  once  drawn  over.  First 
begin  to  draw  at  figure  1,  on  the  back  wing  A, 
next  on  the  front  wing  F,  then  again  on  A,  next 
on  F,  and  so  on  from  figure  1 to  figure  2,  as 
you  will  find  pointed  out  on  the  6 wings  of  the 
harness,  until  you  get  the  figure  in  the  draft  all 
drawn  : then  begin  again  as  before  to  draw  on 
A,  and  F,  taking  notice  that  you  will  draw  32 
threads  to  fomi  the  figure  once  over,  which  is 
when  wove,  a diamond  of  25  blocks. 

The  cording  is  represented  by  19  crosses, 
which  signify  long  cords  to  be  attached  to  the 
short  lams,  also  bv  17  spaces,  which  signify 
short  cords,  which  are  attached  to  long  lams. 

TREJD. 


I.KJ  I HG.  Xhe  treading  is  represented  by  figures,  and 
treadles,  (^jj-gcted  at  the  top  of  the  treadle  draft  how  to 
begin  the  tread,  which  is  thus, — Fig.  1,  which  is  tread- 
le G,  figure  2,  is  treadle  L,  and  so  on  until  you  tread 
the  figure  through,  and  you  will  find  it  takes  32  treads 
to  form  it,  and  that  the  left  foot  vi  hile  w eaving,  is  al- 
ways on  tlie  left  treadle  L,  m hich  makes  the  plain  part 
of  the  cloth,  while  the  rest  make  the  flower.  If  instead 
of  the  above  figure  you  wish  a diamond  of  9 blocks 
only,  you  will  begin  the  tread  on  treadle  I,  and  tread 
through  all  the  treadles  to  the  left,  then  back  as  far  as 
treadle  J.  Use  a slaie  4 beers  finer  than  for  plain  cloth, 
and  di'aw  2 threads  in  a reed. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


63 


Ko.  11.  Bags,  (wove  whole.) 


Cording. 

I } ■ • ' ■ 


Draft. 


I 


I- 

l« 


This  pattern  is  formed  with  8 treadles  and 
six  wings.  Draw  the  first  thread  on  the  back 
wing,  figure  1,  next  on  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  and  it  is 
draum  once  over;  then  begin  again  on  the 
back  wing  and  go  through  as  before,  and  so 
on  until  all  the  threads  are  drawn. 

In  the  cording  there  is  24  long  cords,  on 
short  lama,  and  24  short  cords  on  long  lams. 


I TREJID. 

1 I _ 

^ First  begin  to  ti’ead  figure  1,  next  figures 
treadles.  2,  3,  4,  5,  6.  These  treadles  form  the  body 
of  the  bag.  The  tread  is  to  be  continued  over  and 
6ver  in  that  way,  until  the  bag  is  \\  ove  as  long  as  you 
wish  : you  will  then  tread  the  two  outside  treadles  A 
and  B,  which  will  close  up  tlie  end  of  the  bag. 

The  right  foot  on  treadle  figui'e  1,  takes  down  5 wings 
and  raises  up  one  : the  left  foot  fig.  2,  takes  dovm  one 
wing  and  raises  up  five,  and  operates  in  that  manner 
through  tire  tread. 

Linen  yam  for  a 30  slaie,  will  be  suitable  for  this 
pattern,  and  draw  6 threads  in  a reed. 


t54 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT, 


No.  12.  Diamond  of  9 Blocks... Diaper. 


Cording. 


Draft. 


1 - j , 


■2-2“2-2--2-2  — 2-2  — 2-2— 2-2"2-2— 


j j I This  pattern  is  formed  with  5 Readies  and  5 
I 1 1 v/ings,  and  you  will  notice  that  half  of  the  threads 
! ! ? i\re  drawTi  on  the  front  wing  E.  The  first  thread 
is  draAvn  on  wing  D,  next  E,  then  on  D,  E,  C, 
E,  C,  E,  B,  E,  B,  E,  A,  E,  A,  E,  so  continue 
imtil  through,  as  the  draft  re})resents.  Now  go 
over  again  as  before,  beginning  on  D,  until  the 
yarn  is  all  drawn  through  the  harness. 

In  the  cording  are  13  long  cords  on  the  short 
I ! lams,  and  12  short  cords  on  the  Ions:  lams. 

TUEJID. 


4!|3i 

1 I I t i 

lWi\ 

4|o|  I 

I I I I i 

21  M I 
Vo'  I I 
43|  I I 

: I I I I 


21111 
, M„I 

^11^1 
I I I I 1 

2|ii1 
I I I I I 

J I H CF 

I I I t I 

treadles. 


The  first  ti'ead  is  on  treadle  F,  fig.  1,  on  the 
top  of  the  treadle  draft ; next  fig.  2,  treadle 
J,  next  F,  J,  G,  J,  G,  J,  H,  J,  H,  J,  I,  J,  I,  J, 
and  so  on  until  the  draft  is  trod  once  over  : then 
begin  on  F,  as  before.  Treadles  F,  and  J,  form 
the  plain  cloth,  and  G,  H,  I,  the  flower.  If  you 
wish  to  make  it  all  plain,  tread  F,  and  J,  constantly. 

Use  a slaie  2 beers  finer  than  for  plain  cloth,  and  draw 
2 threads  in  a reed. 

While  you  are  weaving,  the  left  foot  is  always  on 
treadle  J. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


65 


No,  la.  Rose  and  Diamond  Diaper. 


Vording. 


Draft. 


, —3  1 3 1 3 1 3 1 3 1— 3 1 — 

irr!"c!  1 — - — 3 1 — 3 1 — 31-  — 3 1 £ - g 

11  [f”!  ■l2-42-‘i2-42-42 42  42  4242-42  42-42-42-42-42-42-42-42 — a -!§ 
<N|  i-| 

|«l 

I I I I I 
O')  I - 1 I 
1 

till  I 


1 1 
(M  I 

■^1 
1 ■ 

IM 


I 


•<? 

I I I I I 

e^l-M 

1 

I I I ! ( 

O'?-!  I 1 

I I 


This  pattern  is  formed  with  5 Readies  and  5 
wings.  Half  of  the  threads  are  drawn  on  the 
i i j front  wing  E.  The  first  thread  is  drawn  on 
{ j ) wing  A,  next  on  E,  A,  E,  B,  E,  B,  E,  C,  E, 
j C,  E,  and  so  on  until  through  the  -whole,  as  the 
j draft  directs ; then  go  over  again,  beginning  on 
! A,  as  before. 

« In  the  cording,  there  are  13  long  cords  on  the 
j short  lams,  and  12  short  cofds  on  the  long  lams. 

TREAD. 

The  first  h'ead  is  on  treadle  G,  figure  1,  imder 
the  cordmg;  next  on  J,  fig.  2,  then  on  G,  J,  H,  J, 
H,  J,  I,  J,  I,  J,  and  so  on  until  the  tread  is  com- 
pleted, as  directed  on  the  ft'eadle  draft.  F,  and 
J,  form  the  plain  part  of  the  cloth,  G,  H,  and  I, 
form  the  flower;  tread  F,  and  J,  constantly, 
and  it  will  make  it  all  plain. 

Use  a slaic  for  this,  draft,  4 beers  finer  than 
for  plain  cloth,  and  draw  2 threads  in  a reed. — ■ 
While  you  are  weaving,  the  left  foot  is  always 
on  Ueadle  J. 


CN|~| 

I 

I I I 

I - 

rf|«|  I 

!i 

I 

M ' 1 
!N  -I  1 

|rt|  1 
Ml'', 
0^,  1- 
^ I |«| 

I I I I I 

<N  I I i 
'J  I I I 

I i I I I 

J I H GF 

I t I ' I 

'treadles. 


66 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


No  14,  Eight  Block  Diamond  for  Diaper. 


Cordirif 


S 

2 

h 

2 

4 

21 1 
43  I 


Draft. 

— 3 1—- 


■2  2-4.  2-4.2-41  2-4.  2 4-  2-4  ^ § ^ 


2 

4 

2 

4 

2 

4 


JI  H GF 

i*  I 1 I 

Treadles 


This  pattern  is  formed  with  5 treadles  and,  5 
wings.  Half  of  the  threads,  are  drawn  on  front 
wing  E.  The  first  thread  is  drawn  on  wing  D, 
next  on  E,  D,  E,  C,  E,  C,  E,  B,  E,  B,  E,  A,  E, 
A,  E,.  so  on  through  the  draft,  as  directed ; then 
draw  over  again,  beginning  on  D,  as  before. 
In  the  cording  there  are  12  long  Cords  on  short 
lams,  and  13  short  Cords  on  the  long  lams. 

TBEJID. 

The  first  tread  is  on  treadle  F,  fig.  1,  under 
the  cording:  next  on  J,  fig.  2 ; next  on  F,  J,  G, 
J,  G,  J,  H,  J,  H,  J,  I,  J,  I,  J,  and  so  on  until 
the  tread  is  completed.  F and  J,  form  tlie  plain 
part  of  the  cloth  ; G,  H,  I,  form  the  flower. 
While  you  are  weaving,  the  left  foot  is  always 
on  treadle  J. 

Use  a slaie  2 beers  finer  than  for  plain  cloth, 
and  draw  2 threads  in  a reed. 


JL 

j_ 

j_ 

I 

r 

2 

4 

2 

4 

I 

21 

4; 

2 

4 

2 

4 

2 

4 

6 

8 

21 

4' 

2 

4 

2 

4| 

21 

fl 

41 

6| 

S I 

j 1 

I 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


6f 


No.  13,  Cross  and  Diamond  Diaper. 


Draft. 


-3  1 — 


■3  1 • 
-31 3 1 


-3  1- 


•3  1— -3  1-^ 


-75  3 1,  . , . 

--68 — 4‘2 — 42 — »2— 42 — 42 — *2 


^*  7 5 3 1--  ^ ^ 


- P3  - ^ 

* a - g 


-SO-42— 42— 42— 42— 42-42—  « 


This  pattern  is  formed  witli  5 treadles,  and  5 
wings.  Half  of  the  threads,  are  drawn  on  the 
front  wing  E.  The  first  thread  is  drawn  on 
A,  next  on  E,  next  on  A,  E,  B,  E,  B,  E,C, 
E,  C,  E,  and  so  on  through  the  whole  : then  be- 
gins the  second  time  on  A,  as  before. 

There  are  12  long  cords  on  short  lams,  and 
13  short  cords  on  the  long  lams. 


TREAD. 

The  first  tread  is  on  treadle  G,  fig.  1,  next  on 
J,  fig.  2,  next  on  G,  J,  H,  J,  H,  J,  I,  J,  I,  J,  and 
so  on,  until  the  tread  is  completed. 

F and  J,  form  the  plain  part  of  the  cloth,  and 
G,  H,  I,  the  flower.  While  you  are  weaving, 
the  left  foot  is  alu^ays  on  treadle  J. 

Use  a slaie  2 beers  finer  than  for  plain  cloth, 
and  draw  2 threads  in  a reed. 


68 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


No,  16,  Checked  Dimety. 


Cordins;. 


Draft. 


4,— 2' 

-8-6- 


■3  1 

-4.  2- 


•8-6 


5 1 5 1 

3 7 3 — 

•-4.-2-*- 4 — 2 




4 2 


« “1^ 


4 1 3 

«87 

i I ! 
I I I 
[ I 


21 

i3 

2 I 1 1 1 I 
1 I > 
5 f 

i 6 j .yij 
I 87 


2 i 1 1 
i.i3 
16,15 
87 


This  pattern  is  formed  with  6 treadles,  and 
6 wings.  The  first  thread,  is  drawn  on  wing 
A,  next  on  C,  next  on  B,  C,  A,  D,  B,  D,  and 
so  on  as  the  draft  directs ; until  once  over, 
^ I ) then  commence  again  on  A,  as  before. 

There  are  10  long  cords,  on  short  lams  : and 
26  short  cords  on  long  lams. 

TBEJID. 

The  first  tread,  is  on  treadle  I,  fig.  1,  under 
the  cording,  next  on  1^,  fig.  2,  next  on  J,  L,  I, 
K,  J,  K,  and  so  on,  until  the  nhole  tread  is 
completed. 

G and  H,  forms  the  plain  bar,  but  if  you 
tread  I,  J,  K,  L,  only,  it  will  form  it  into  stripes. 

Use  a slaie  2 beers  finer  than  for  plain  cloth, 
and  draw  2 threads  in  a reed^ 


21 

43 


I.K  JIHG 
,111111 
rreadWs* 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


60 


No.  17,  Eight  Shaft  Coverlet. 


7531 — 7531  - 

8642—8642 

-7531— 31— 7531- 
-804-2 42 8642- 


Draft. 

-7531 31 7'531 < - 

-8642 42 8642 pq  - 

7531—7531 O- 

8642—8642— P - 


-O 

-K 


-S3 


Cardins. 


I I 

ABCDEF 


1! 

|3 
6! 
i7 
1! 
i3 
5!l 
17! 

1'!  2 
4 
6 
l7 

1 1 


!2 

|4 

j6 

\8 

l2 

111 

ie 

!s 


SI  I 


5!! 

i3,'| 
siii 

k 1 1 1 1 1 
Treawe. 


12 
u 
16 
! 8 


This  pattern  is  formed  with  6 treadles,  and 
8 wings.  Tlie  wings  are  represented,  as  be- 
ing in  two  divisions,  with  4 wings  in  each. 

You  will  now  begin  to  draw  the  first  tliread, 
on  the  back  division,  wing  A,  fig.  1,  next 
di'aw  on  B,  fig.  2,  next  A,  B,  A,  B,  A,  B, 
then  on  C,  D,  C,  D,  C,  D,  C,  D,  and  so  on, 
as  directed  through  the  draft:  observ^ing,  that 
it  takes  72  threads,  to  di'aw  the  figure  once 
over  : you  will  then  begin  on  the  back  wing 
A,  as  first  directed. 

Should  the  weaver  wish  to  have  a larger 
figure,  for  the  coverlet  than  the  draft  repre- 
sents : he  may  vary  it  according  to  his  fancy, 
by  observing  that  the  tread  is  guided  by  the 
draft : and  that  the  number  of  treads  in  the 
treadle  draft,  must  be  twice  the  number  of 
threads,  that  are  in  the  drawing  through  the 
harness. 


70  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

Explanation  of  Cording  and  Tread  for  No.  17. 

In  the  cording,  there  are  25  long  cords  for  short  lams, 
and  23  short  cords  for  long  lams. 

TREAD. 

In  the  whole  tread  of  the  pattern,  there  are  10  chan- 
ges, being  the  same  as  in  the  drawing  the  threads. 
There  are  only  three  changes  represented  in  the  treadle 
draft  for  want  of  room;  these  three,  and  all  the  others 
described  hereafter,  have  double  the  number  of  treads 
that  there  are  threads  in  the  drawing ; this  is  caused  by 
the  binding  yam,  which  is  operated  by  treadles  A and 
B.  You  will  observe,  that  the  left  foot  is  continued  on 
treadle  A and  B,  through  the  whole  draft  in  treading, 
which  is  72  treads  and  72  treads  for  the  right  foot  also. 

First  begin  to  tread  on  treadle  A,  fig.  1,  with  the  left 
foot,  next  F,  right  foot ; and  so  on  being'  16  treads. 

Next  right  foot  on  E,  (le&  footas  before)  16  treads. 

Right  foot  on  F,  8 treads. 

“ “ on  E,  16  treads. 

“ “ on  F.  16  treads. 

“ “ on  C,  16  treads. 

“ “ on  D,  16  treads. 

“ “ on  C,  8 treads. 

on  D,  16  treads. 

‘‘  “ on  C,  16  treads. 

The  draft  is  now  once  over,  begin  again  as  'at  first 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


n 


No.  18,  Compass  Diaper. 


-31- 


-31- 


Draft. 


-31—31 31—31 — — fQ  — 3 

31—31 -31 — 31—31 — 31—31—31 O — S 

_4i24242424.24242 42424242-42424242-424'342424‘2— 


Cording. 

This  Ptittem  is  formed  with  5 treadles,  and 
lixiz  J 5 wings.  Half  of  the  threads,  are  drawn  on 
the  front  w'ing  E.  The  first  thread  drawn, 
is  fig.  1,  on  wing  C,  next  on  E,  then  on  C,  E, 
D,  E,  D,  E,  and  so  through,  as  the  draft  di- 
rects. When  through,  the  draft  is  once  over : 
you  will  then  begin  again  on  wing  C,  as  be- 
fore. 

There  are  12  long  cords,  on  short  lams,  and 
1“  13  short  cords,  on  long  lams. 

3 TREAD. 

The  first  tread  is- on  treadle  G,  fig.  1,  un- 
der the  cording,  next  on  treadle  J,  fig.  2,  next 
on  G,  J,  F,  J,  F,  J,  and  so  on,  as  far  as  is  rep- 
resented on  the  draft.  Then  continue  on 'with 
the  right  foot  4 changes  thus,  (left  foot  as 
before)  C 4 treads  (including  the  left  foot)  H, 
4,  T,  4,  H,  4,  which  completes  the  tread. 

J,  forms  the  plain  part  of  the  cloth,  the  rest 
make  the  flower. 

While  you  are  weaving,  the  left  foot  is  al- 
ways on  treadle  J.  The  slaie  should  be  2 beers 
finer  than  for  plain  cloth,  and  drawn  2 threads 
in  a reed. 


II 

I 3 

'f 

i! 

si 


|i 

13 

1 j 

V 

U 

V' 

1 

3 

1^ 

lU 

3 ! 


ol  { 


72 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


No.  19,  Half  Diamond  Diaper. 


Cording. 

I t I 


Draft. 


_ 6s 


21 

43 

2 

4 

2 

4 

2 

4 

2 

4 


II 


^ ^ ’ "7 g 

-"3  j ^ — : — ---3 1 ‘£  I - 

-4.  2 4.  2-4.  2-4.  2-4.  2-4.  2-4.  2-4,  2-i  2— S I 


42-42-42- 

This  pattern  is  formed  with  6 treadles,  and 
6 wings.  Half  of  the  threads  are  dra\'.  r on  the 
front  wing  F.  The  first  thread  drawn,  is  fi^.  1, 
on  wing  E,  next  fig.  2,  on  F,  next  E,  F,  D,  F, 
D,  F,  C,  F,  C,  F,  B,  F,  B,  F,  A,  F,  A,  F,  .md 
so  on  through  the  draft,  then  begin  again  on  E, 
as  before. 

There  are  17  long  cords  on  short  lams,  and 
19  short  cords  on  long  lams. 

TREJD. 


[ 11  The  first  tread  is  on  K fig.  1,  at  the  top,  next 

1 I j on  L,  next  on  K,  L,  J,  L,  J,  L,  and  so  on,  un- 
LK  j iHG  til  through,  as  directed. 

'I'reudL^  G and  L,  form  the  plain  part  of  the  cloth,  and 
the  rest  tlie  flower.  While  you  are  weaving 
the  left  foot  is  always  on  treadle  L. 

The  slaie  should  be  2 beers  finer  than  for 
plam  cloth,  and  drawn  2 threads  in  a reed. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


No.  Diamond  Coverlet. 


Harness. 


> a 0 a 

I I I I 
I I I I 
I I I 1 
1 I I I 


I I I I 
I l-'tx 
I 

r-CNl  I 
I I 
I I I I 
1 I I I 
I I I I 
I I I I 
I I II 
I I I I 
I I -O' 
I l«^ 
-3^1  I 
«. 

1 I -O' 

I 1 O' 


a d o H 
1 1 1 1 
I l-o» 

I 


1 1. 


f-!N 

rtTji 

I 

I 

I 


",  i 


This  pattern  is  formed  with  6 treadles, 
and  8 wings.  The  wings  of  the  harness, 
are  represented  as  being  in  two  divisions, 
with  four  in  each. 

Draw  the  first  thread,  on  the  front  di- 
G,  fig.  1,  next  on  H,  fi£ 


vision 


wing 


'^.-O'l  I 
^ n I I 
s,  l l-0< 

1 I -q* 

I I I I 
I I I I 
I I I I 
I I I I 
I I I 1 
I I I I 
-O'!  I 
1 I 

I ) — oi 


> I I 

I I I 

^5^  j 
C^rfi 


J 

I 

I 

cOyfi 

NOO 


«-<N  I 

« ^ I 
I I- 
I u 


I 1-01 
I I eo  'T 
— o<  I I 

I ! 

1 1 1 1 
I I -O' 
I I ” 

-oil  I 


—Ol 

cO-<it 


— <M 
nrfi 
1 1 
1 1 
1 1 
1 1 
r-Ol 

1 1 
1 1 
1 1 
1 1 


2,  and  so  on,  drawing  8 tlireads  on  G and 

H. 

You  Avill  next  draw 
4 threads 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 

and  so  on,  through  as  the  draft  directs, 
being  in  the  whole  figure,  104  threads. 
You  will  then  begin  on  wing  G,  as  at 
first. 


on  wings  E and  F, 
on  C and  D, 

A and  B, 
E and  F, 
C and  D, 
A and  B, 


on 

on 

on 

on 


7i 


MANU¥ACTURER’S  ASSISTANT: 


No.  20'  Gordias:  aud  Tread.. 


Cor  dirt":. 


I i i I 

T”  ri”r" 


1,121 

!34[ 

5)6 

IT'S 

1121 

! 

516 

!7sl 

]\\l 

|3!4 
5) 

17 

II ! 

1 


8 

12 

i* 

l6 

8 


I 

5! 

'I 

' 

6! 

1| 

i? 

5! 

•I 

i! 

13 

5! 

|7 


2 

■4 

6 

8 

'2 

4, 

6 

8 


-I 

--S 


1 

2 
4< 
6 
8 

NMLK  J I 

'i'rM-: 


In  the  cording  there  are  25  long  cords*^ 
for  short  lams,  and  23  short  cords  for 
long  lams. 

TREAD. 

In  the  whole  tread  of  the  pattern,  there  are 
24  changes,  being  the  same  as  in  tlie  drawing 
of  the  threads.  There  are  only  7 chaiTges  rep- 
resented in  the  ti'eadle  draft,  for  want  of  room  : 
these  7,  as  also  the  rest  of  the  changes,  have 
double  the  number  of  treads,  that  there  are 
threads  in  the  drawing ; this  is  caused  by  the 
binding  yarn  which  is  trod  by  treadles  N, 
and  M. 

It  will  be  observed  that  the  left  foot  is  confi- 
ned on  treadles  N and  M,  through  the  whole 
draft  of  the  treading,  which  is  104  treads; 
and  104  treads  for  the  right  foot  also. 

First  begin  the  tread,  on  treadle  N,  figi  1, 
under  the  cording  ; next  right  foot  on  L,  fig. 
2,  and  so  on  for  16  treads,*  which  is  called  one 
change. 

The  next,  right  foot  on  K,  8 treads  J,  8 
treads  I8,  K8,  J8,  I8,  this  makes  all  the 
changes  and  treads,  that  we  have  represented 
on  the  treadles.  Then  continue  on  J 8 treads, 
K 8,  I P,  J 8,  K 8,  L 16,  I 8,  J 8,  K 8,  I 8, 

J 8,  K 8,  J 8,  I 8,  K 8,  J 8,  I 8,  the  whole 
draft  or  figure,  is  now  through,  being  208 
treads. 


i MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


.75 


No.  21*  Diamond  Coverlet. 


-21- 

-4C- 


Draft. 

-31 1--<- 


—7531—31- 
— 8642 — 42- 


-31—7531—7531—31- 


-31— 7531— 0-« 
-42— 8642— Q - 


-W- 


-i'i— 8641— 8642— 42 fa 

—31— — 1—31 a - 

—42 2—42 -a- 


Cordins 


t I 


1 I 


I I I I I 


t I J ! » 

I I i”!  I r 
I'-'  I I I l' 
■ » I I r? 
i— '-L*  * 

1 I I f)  o 


-'<1 


|3 

^l!|2 

|3  I j4 

i?|!s 

iTjIS 
1 I I 

isf 

r*  I I 


rt ! I 

’ i 1 
|7l 
1 ! 
i3 

f! 

\7 

II 


2 
4 
6 
8 
21 
|3!4 
5l  |6 
1718 
1(2 
(34 
5(6 
178| 

NMLK  JI 

1'  I I I I 

XreadleB, 


This  pattern  has  6 treadles,  and  8 Avings, 
tlie  last  aie  seen  in  the  two  divisions. 
Draw  the  first  thread  on  the  back  wing 

A,  fig.  1,  next  B,  fig.  2,  next  draw  8 

threads  on  wirgs  C and  D,  next  4 threads  on 
wings  A,  B,  tl  en  draw  4 on  C,  D,  and  so  on 
tlirough  the  craft  as  directed,  being  68  threads. 
24  Ion?  cords,  and  24  short  cords. 

TREJB, 

You  will  dead  thus,  first  on  N,  fig.  1,  under 
the  cording,  next  on  I,  fig.  2,  and  so  on  four- 
teen changes,  altliough  there  are  but  six  repre- 
sented on  the  treadles,  for  want  of  room.  These 
changes  have  double  the  number  of  treads, 
than  the  threads  in  the  drawing,  caused  by  the 
binding  yam,  which  is  trod  by  treadles  N and 
M,  with  the  left  foot. 

After  treading  the  six  changes  as  above- 
mentioned,  3'ou  will  go  on  and  tread  8 Uiore 
thus,  right  foot  on  K,  16  treads,  (the  left  foot 
always  on  N and  M,)  L,  4 treads,  K 16,  L 8, 
K 8,  J 8,  I 8j  J 16,  and  the  tread  is  once  over. 


•MANUFACTUHER’S  ASSISTANT, 

No.  Diamond  Diaper. 


-31 — 
— 31 


- — 31- 


-31 31. 

31—31 31  — 

—31 31 


-31 


i2424 2424242424242424242424242- 

CurdintP 


Draft. 



- 31 pq—  t 

31 o—  g 


4- 1 
2 
4 


T i— <^5  Wings. 


This  pattern  is  formed  ivith  5 treadles,  and 
Half  of  the  threads  are  drav,  n on 


!l 


Ob 

2i 
4g 
21 
4 
2 
4 
2 
4 

2l 

2 I I I ^ 

fills 
4 I I 1 T 

2l!.A 

4} 

4|*’ 

2l| 

43 1“ 

oil 

^131 

4 II 


} I the  front  wing  E. 

! 3 The  first  thread  is  drawn  on  wing  A,  fig,  1, 
next  on  E,  next  on  A,  E,  B,  E,  B,  E,  C,  E,  C, 
E,  D,  E,  D,  E,  and  so  on,  draw  ing  88  threads. 

This  draft  for  want  of  room,  does  not  repre- 
sent but  60  threads ; but  it  will  be  found  that 
j we  have  described  the  remainder  by  letters. 
I After  you  have  drawn  the  60  threads,  continue 
s on  thus,  D,  E,  D,  E,  C,  E,  C,  E,  B,  E,  B,  hi, 
A,  E,  A,  E,  D,  E,  D,  E,  C,  E,  C,  E,  B,  E, 
^1  B,  E : the  w hole  of  the  draft  is  now  through ; 

I tlien  begin  again  at  fig.  1,  on  wing  A,  where  the 

i j draft  first  commenced. 

! 1 


l3 


2 
4 

2i  I n 

I I 

4 111 

! I I ! 

J IHGF 
'Tveadlpi 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


76 


Explanation  of  Cording  and  Tread  for  No.  22. 

In  the  cording  there  are  20  long  cords  for  the  short 
Jams,  and  5 short  cords  for  the  long  lams. 

TBEJD. 

The  first  tread  is  on  treadle  F,  fig.  1,  under  the  cor- 
ding : next  on  J,  fig.  2,  next  F,  J,  G,  J,  G,  J,  H,  J,  H, 
J,  I,  J,  1,  J,  and  so  on,  treading  88  treads. 

This  draft,  for  want  of  room,  does  not  represent  but 
60  treads,  but  we  have,  as  in  the  drawing,  described 
the  remainder  by  letters. 

After  treading  the  60  treads  continue  through  thus  ; 

I,  J,  I,  J,  H,  J,  H,  J,  G,  J,  G,  J,  F,  J,  F,  J,  I,  J,  I,  J,  H, 

J,  H,  J,  G,  J,  G,  J ; tlie  whole  of  the  draft  of  the  tread 
is  now  through.  Begin  again  on  F,  fig.  1.  under  the 
cording  as  before. 

While  you  are  weaving,  the  left  foot  is  always  on 
treadle  J,  which  forms  the  glajn  part  of  the  clotli,  and 
the  other  four  form  the  flower. 

The  slaie  for  this  pattern,  should  be  2 beers  finer 
than  for  plain  cloth,  and  drawn  2 threads  in  a reed. 


i 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT, 


No.  S3,  Block  Stripe  Diaper. 


Cording. 


Draft. 


3 1 


-3  1 3 1 

-313-31- 


— 3 1— 3 1-- 

3 1 3 1 — — o -F 

7 5 31 — 3 1 o-J 


I I I I 


42-42-42-42-4242~86-42-42-42  42-42- 42-42-  W JSi 


S 

4 

3 

4 
2 

21 

is 


wings. 


11 


This  pattern  is  formed  with  5 treadles  and  5 
Half  of  the  threads  are  drawn  on  the 
front  wing  E,  The  first  thi'ead  is  drawn  on  wing 

D,  fig.  1.  next  on  E,  next  on  D,  E,  C,  E,  C, 

E,  and  so  on  through  the  draft,  w hich  is  once 
over,  when  you  will  begin  again  onD,  as  before. 

There  are  12  long  cords  for  short  lams,  and 
13  short  cords  for  the  long  lams, 

TREAD, 

The  first  tread  is  on  F,  fig.  1,  under  the  cor- 
ding, next  on  J,  fig.  2,  next  on  F,  J,  G,  J,  G,  J, 
and  so  on  until  once  over,  as  directed  in  the 
draft  of  treading  5 then  begin  again  on  F,  as 
before. 

When  you  are  weaving,  the  left  foot  is  always 
on  treadle  J.  The  treadles  which  form  the  plain 
cloth  are  F,  and  J,  and  the  others  form  the  flower. 

The  slaie  for  this  pattern,  should  be  two  beers  finer 
dian  for  plain  cloth,  and  draw  two.  threads  in  a reed. 


JIHGF 
1 1 1 1 • 

treadles. 


I I I I I I I I 

Si  ■ ■■ ' 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

No.  24,  Birds  Eye  Carpet. 

Cording, 


Draft, 


4.1  j 

6 I 


111)1111 

5 ] 

5 1 

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 

• 1 1 1 1 1 »” 

Ii 

i i 

8 6 

!i 

|3[ 

I I n 1 i I 1 1^1  i I 


8! 

i!3M! 
l6!5!l 
! 1 87 ! I ! 
II  I |i 

3! 
!5 

n 

1! ! 


6 I I 

si 


I , , 

{«!^!! 

1187!! ! 


I i 


4l3 


f I 


I I 


C!5l. 

87 ! ! ! 

1 


4 i 3 1 


2 

4| 


2iii! 
4!3l  1 
|6!5|| 
i87!|| 

11'  I 

Sill 
!||6!5!i 
i!|87!I! 

"fill" 

I l4!,3l  I i 
I II  6 j.^  I I 


I < I I I 1 i t 

I I \ I 

I > t t t I 

■|  i"i  I ii  » I r 


-3 

-»  5 8 6 » 6- 


5 15  1 

17  8 7 


-515151- 
-7  3 7 373- 

■tUitt- 


-6  1 

-7  3- 
-4.  2' 
-8  6 


78 


5 l-«<- 

U-r-i 

b 6-  ft  - 

Si 

■ ^ 

■ o -ffj 
•K- 


M ®i^il 
* ' 87 ! 1 I 


I I I 3| 

I I ! 5 


This  pattern  is  formed  with  eight  treadles, 
and  8 wings.  The  wings  are  represented  as 
being  in  two  divisions,  with  4 wings  in  each. 

You  will  now  begin,  by  drawing  the  first 
thread  on  the  back  division,  wing  A,  fig.  1 : 
next  draw  on  C,  B,  C,  A,  D,  B,  D ; com- 
mence next  on  the  front  division,  w^ing  E, 
then  G,  F,  G,  E,  H,  F,  H ; begin  again  on 
the  back  division,  wing  A,  and  so  on  through 
tlie  draft.  Then  begin  on  the  back  wing  A, 
as  first  directed,  observing  that  it  takes  80 
threads  to  draw  the  figure  once  over. 

There  are  32  long  cords,  for  short  lams, 
and  32  short  cords  for  long  lams. 

TREAD. 

The  first  tread  is  on  treadle  I,  begun  at 
fig.  1,  near  the  cording ; next  tread  r,  fig. 
2,  then  J,  P,  I,  O,  J,  O,  which  makes  8 
treads : then  K,  N,  L,  N,  K,  M,  L,  M,  ma- 
king 16  treads ; you  will  then  continue  to 
tread  all  the  draft  of  treading  through,  being 
in  the  whole  figure  80  treads;  it  is  then  be- 
gun on  I again,  fig.  1,  on  the  top  as  before. 


I 


PONML  K J X 


79 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


No.  25,  Rose  and  Compass  Diaper. 


' VWVWWX/'W^  WWW  wv^  ^ 


B 

I 

a 


n ■ 


■ 


B 


■ BBS 

I H ■ B I 


mam 


mam 


V 

B a 


a B 


■ B 


■V 

I 

"a_B 


-ol- 


— « ■ 


— 31 — 


b — C 31—31 31-31- 

U 31 — 


51—31—31—31 — 
-31—31—31 


63- 


424242424242424242424242424242424242 

vwwwwwvwv'vwvw 


Tliis  draft  represents  the  figure  as  being  drawn  once 
over.  There  is  on  it  18  changes,  4 figures  to  a change 
as  1,  2,  3,  4.  The  four  figures  or  threads,  when  draivn, 
make  one  block,  and  18  blocks  from  the  right,  w hich 
extend  only  to  O on  the  plate,  is  all  that  the  draft  of  the 
harness  represents.  The  blocks  to  the  left  of  that  let- 
ter, is  the  figure  commenced  again,  and  placed  there  to 
make  tlie  plate  appear  square,  as  it  is  in  the  clotli. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


80 


I - 

Cordins 


|3| 

I II 

l|3 

iU! 

!|31 


si! 


1 1 

LK J IHG 
2 
4 
2 
4 
2 
4 

Sijiii 

^lUll 

52]ll  1 I 
4| 

21 
4‘ 

2 
4j 
2 
4 

■si 

4" 

2! 

4l 
2[1 
4|3 
211 


No.  25,  Corclina;  and  Tread. 


In  the  cording  there  are  16  long  cords  on 
the  short  lams,  and  20  short  cords  on  the 
Ions:  lams. 

O 

TREJID. 


I I 


The  first  tread  is  on  treadle  H,  fig.  1,  next  on 
L,  fig.  2,  next  H,  L,  G,  L,  G,  I.,  and  so  on  un- 
til the  tread  is  through  as  directed,  being  in  the 
whole,  72  treads.  While  you  are  weaving 
the  left  foot  is  always  on  the  left  hand  treadle 
L,  which  makes  the  plain  part  of  the  cloth,  while 
the  rest  forra  the  flower.  The  slaie  for  this 
pattern,  slidura  be  2 beers  finer  than  for  plain 
cloth,  and  trfaw  2 threads  in  a reed. 

Explanation  of  the  draft  JSTo.  25. 

This  pattern  has  6 wings.  Draw  the  first 
thread  on  the  back  wing  A,  fig.  1,  next  on 
wing  F,  next  on, A,  F,  B,  F,  B,  F,  and  so  on, 
as  the  draft  directs.  Half  of  the  threads  are 
drawn  on  wing  F,  bemg  72  threads  in  the  fig- 
ure. 1 2 


43 
211 
4lS 
21 1 
43 
2il 
4 3 
2ll 

4-3! 

^|S  i 

21111 

Trei  in 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


No.  26,  Plain  Block  Carpet. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


82 


Explanation  of  Draft  and  Plate  No.  26. 

This  pattern  is  formed  with  8 treadles,  and  8 wings. 
The  wings  are  represented  as  being  in  two  divisions 
with  4 in  each. 

Begin  to  draw  on  the  back  division  wing  A,  fig.  1, 
drawing  12  threads  on  A,  B,  C,  D,  and  so  on  as  the  draft 
directs,  drawing  120  threads,  the  last  thread  being 
dra\vn  on  H.  You  will  now  proceed  to  draw  the  threads 
for  the  small  blocks,  that  appear  in  the  center  of  the 
plate  a second  time  over,  thus  draw  4 threads  on  the 
4 back  wings  A,  B,  C,  D,  then  four  threads  on  the  4 
front  wings,  then  4 on  the  4 back  wings,  next  4 on  the 
4 front  wings,  then  4 on  the  4 back  wings,  and  4 on  the 
4 front  wings.  The  draft  is  now  through ; although  the 
plate  from  want  of  room,  does  not  represent  tlie  whole 
figure,  as  will  appear  in  the  cloth.  You  will  now  com- 
mence drawing  the  whole  draft  the  second  time  over, 
beginning  the  12  thr^ds  A,  B,  C,  D,  as  at  first. 

• \ 


83 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT, 

■ No.  26.  Cording  and  Tread. 


PONMLS  J I 

I I I i 31 
24i|||31 
24! ! ! !31 
I 2431 1 
i 6875  i 
1 2431  I 
6875 
2431 
168751 


Cordin-s. 


241 


24 


241 


I! 24311  I 
24| 11131 
! 12431 1 I 
2411  M31 
1 ! 2431 ! j 
24III131 
I 1 2431 
2431 
1 12431 
24 


24 


241 


24 

24 


24 1 

I 12431 
! 2431 
I 2431 
24111 !31 
J124S1I) 
24l 11131 
n 243111 
24111131 


I I'l  I i'l  I I 


In  the  cording  there  are  32  long  cords, 
and  32  short  cords. 


1 131 
31 

!!3‘ 


TREAD. 


The  first  tread  is  on  treadle  I,  fig.  1,  next 
on  P,  fig.  2,  next  on  J,  O,  I,  P,  J,  O,  I,  P,  J, 
O,  this  finishes  the  first  change:  you  will 'I 
now  tread  on  the  second  change,  K,  N,  L, 
M,  and  so  on,  treading  as  many  treads  as  the 
draft  directs,  being  144  treads ; it  is  then  be- 
gun again  as  before. 


131 

31 

31 

31 

31 

31 


vaoa  adOH 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT.  84 

No.  27,  Damask  Diaper. 


85 


MANUFACTURER'S  ASSISTANT. 


Explanation  of  Draft  No  27. 

This  pattern  is  formed  with  12  treadles,  and  12 H 
wings.  The  wings  are  represented  as  being  in  3 divis- 
ions with  4 wings  in  each. 

Begin  the  draft  on  the  back  division  wing  A,  fig.  1, 
drawing  4 threads  on  A,  B,  C,  D,  next  on  E,  F,  G,  H,  ■ 
middle  division ; next  8 threads  on  I,  J,  K,  L,  front  di- 
vision : and  so  on  as  the  draft  directs,  observing  there 
are  20  changes,  and  168  threads. 

The  learner  in  drawing  the  threads,  must  be  guided 
by  the  harness,  or  shaft  marks,  between  the  figures 
composing  the  changes,  that  he  will  not  draw  too  many 
threads  on  a division  at  once. 

The  five  stripes  or  columns  of  blocks,  on  the  left 
side  of  the  plate,  are  not  to  be  drawn  the  first  time  over, 
as  they  are  merely  laid  down  to  itiake  the  figure  appear 
square,  as  in  the  cloth ; they  wall  be  draw  n w hen  you 
commence  again,  as  will  be  seen  by  observbg  the  right 
hand  side  of  the  plate. 


ii 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


86 


Cording  and  Tread,  of  No.  S7. 


^ovdin* 


I I 


I 1 


I I I 

1"TT  i_LL‘_ 


j_i  i i_ 
~i  I T I J J J- 


I ' »- 

"t  i 1 


j j_j  J . 

t I iT 


I II 

"l"!  J 
'l"  I 


II  I I I I I I I I 

WVU  TSRQ  PONM 

< ' I 

I 1 


I I I I ^ In  the  cording  there  are  60  long 
I I I « cords,  and  84  short  cords, 


II  «! 


1 1 


<N|  i- 

I 'f=^l 

I I I 

nil  AtI 


TREAD. 


I 

1 1 I 

I (NTjrl-.  1 I 

' ' ' I C3rH 

I 


The  first  tread  is  on  treadle  M,  fig,  1, 
next  on  X,  hg.  2^  N,W,  O,  V,  P,  U, 
t 1 1 1 1 liiT  Q,  T,  R,  S,%  T,  R,  S,  and  so  on, 
j treading  84  treads,  being  12  changes, 
I which  is  all  that  is  represented  on  this 
1 draft  for  want  of  room,  You  v/Ul  now 
sUJsi  7T1  I continue  on  thus,  tread 
till  «-|'i  I M,  X,  N,  W,  six  times  over. 

Q,  T,  R,  S,  three  times  over, 
O,  V,  P,  U,  three  times  over, 
Q,  T,  R,  S,  once  over, 

O,  V,  P,  U,  once  over, 

Q,  T,  R,  S,  once  over. 

O,  V,  P,  U,  three  times  over. 
Q,  T,  R,  S,  three  times  over. 
The  figure  is  now  trod  once  through  when  you  will 
begin  again  as  at^first. 


, , (Nijlrt-  lilt 

till 

fN'f'  1 1 I I 1 - 
I I I I rt- 
I I 
'■  I I 
I I 

nil  III 
Treadles. 


97  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

No.  28  Curtain  Diaper. 


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MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT.  «8 

Explanation  of  Draft  No.  28. 

This  pattern  is  formed  with  8 treadles,  and  8 wings. 
Half  of  the  threads  are  drawn  in  the  front  wing  P. 

Draw  the  first  thread  on  wing  N,  fig.  1,  next  on  P, 
fig.  2,  N,  P,  M,  P,  M,  P,  N,  P,  N,  P,  O,  P,  O,  P, 
O,  P,  and  so  on,  as  directed  dwough  the  draft,  being 
68  threads  on  the  figure,  you  will  then  begin  again  as 
before.  The  left  hand  pillar  in  the  plate,  merely  repre- 
sents the  first  pillar  as  being  drawn  the  second  time. 
The  draft  or  drawing  therefore,  does  not  extend  only  to 
that  pillar. 

In  the  carding  to  No.  28,  there  are  26  long  cords  r 
short  lams,  and  38  short  cords  on  long  lams. 

Explanation  of  Tread  for  No.  38, 

In  the  first  place  die  learner  will  observe  th  ^ 
treading  is  represented  in  two  parts  for  qP  room 

ioid  will  perceive  that  by  supposing  th^^.  j-ight  hand  co- 
lums  to  be  placed  dirfjcdy  under  thos^^  of  the  left,  it  will 
appear  correct  and.  of  the  same  sh^pe  as  one  side  of  tlie 
main  pillar  of  <iie  plate. 

Should  he  Wisli  to  have  a plair^  bar  on  the  top  of  the  pillars,  he 
will  tread.  A,  H,  three  times  ea;»-!j  as  represented  on  the  top  of  the 
draft. 

Be^in  the  tread  on  tig.  1,  right  hand  column;  next  H,  fig. 
2,  Tiext  B,  H,  and  so  on  extending  upwards,  until  at  the  top  of 
'are  columns.  Y ou  v/ill  observe  tliat  the  tread  must  be  continu- 
ed on  to  D,  in  the  'mft  hand  colums,  and  extend  upwards  as  di- 
rected until  throug-’h,  when  you  will  commence  again  on  the  right 
hand  colums  as  before.  Should  the  weaver  w'hile  weaving,  wish 
to  form  a difierent  figure  from  the  one  represented  in  the  plate,^ 
he  can  form  one  that  will  appear  well,  by  merely  changing  tlic 
tread.  After  trading  the  twentieth  change  from  the  beginning; 
■which  is  C,  go  on  thus — D,  E,  F,  E,  D,  C,  B,  C,  D,  E,  F,  G : the* 
begin  on  the  other  colums  and  go  over  the  second  time  as  at  first 
directed.  "While  you  are  weaving,  tlie  left  foot  is  always  oi^ 
treadle  H.  Use  a slaie  2 beers  toer  than  for  plain  cloth  aaif 
draw  2 th’/eittis  in  a reed. 

K 


90 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

Cording  and  Tread  of  No.  S8. 


- — 


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Tre^oHei’ 


MANUFACTURER'S  ASSISTANT. 


91 


No.  29,  Block  Carpet. 


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§2 


MANUFACTUBER’S  ASSISTANT. 


Explanation  of  Draft  and  Plate  No.  29. 

This  pattern  is  formed  with  8,  treadles  and  8 wings* 

The  wings  are  represented  as  being  in  two  divisions  > 
with  4 wings  in  each.  ! 

The  draft  is  intended  to  represent  the  figure  as  be-  \ 
ginning  on  the  plate  at  letter  V,  being  in  die  centre  of 
the  largest  block,  and  continuing  as  far  to  the  left  as 
the  comer  block,  which  it  includes ; it  then  leaves  that 
block  without  drawing  it  the  second  time,  as  will  be 
seen  by  the  draft ; then  draw  die  second  to  the  right, 
which  is  8 threads,  and  so  on  backwards  to  V again. 

This  is  die  whole  figure  though  not  as  appears  in  the 
plate. 

The  first  thread  will  be  drawn  thus ; begin  on  the 
back  division,  wdng  A,  fig.  1,  next  B,  C,  D,  and  so 
on,  drawing  12  threads  on  the  back  division,  as  direc- 
ted on  the  draft ; next  draw  4 threads  on  the  front  di- 
vision, on  wings  E,  F,  G,  H,  and  continue  drawing  un- 
til once  ot^er,  being  108  threads. 

, This  being  for  a carpet,  it  will  perhaps  be  necessary 
to  dmw  double  the  number  of  threads  in  each  change, 
tiian  what  has  been  directed  in  the  draft,  that  the  figure 
may  be  found  large  enougla  in  the  cloth  : hou^ever  you 
w'ill  be  guided  in  some  measure  by  the  size  of  the  yam. 
Should  you  double  the  number  of  threads  in  each 
change  of  drawling  the  threads,  you  must  also  double 
the  number  of  treads  in  treading. 


MANUFACTURER'S  ASSISTANT. 


93 


No.  29,  Cording  and  Tread. 


Cording. 

I I I 


31 
31 
31 
31,, 
I!  31 


24! 

24  I 

24! 

5 (24 
24  I 
! ! 2431 1 I 
24, ! 1 {31 
24, I 1 |31 
I 1 2431 1 I 
24|i|i3i 
I 12431, I 
11 2431 1 i 


I 31 

31 

31 


241  I 
24 1 I 
24!  I 

1 1 1 i 

,2431  I I 
’ * 2431  I 1 

I!  I >'  M I I 
•'2431'' 
24 1 I I , 31 
24111131 

I I I I I I I I 

1 I I I 

IlMlln 

J,l243lii 
24  I I I I 31 


In  the  cording,  there  are  32  long  cords  and 
32  short  cords. 

TREAD. 

Begin  the  ti-ead  with  the  right  foot  on  tread- 
le I,  fig.  1,  under  the  cording,  next  with  the 
left  foot  on  P,  fig.  2,  and  so  on  for  12  treads, 
being  one  change ; next  on  K,  N,  L,  M, 
whidi  is  the  second  change  ; then  continue 
treading  tlirough  as  the  treadle  draft  directs, 
being  17  changes,  and  108  treads  to  complete 
the  figure.  You  will  then  begin  again  as  at 
first.  K 2 


* ^ ■ 


24 II  I! 31 
24 1 I I I 31 

PONMLK  J I 
Treadles. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


No.  30,  Birds  Eye  Cai’pet. 


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pq  _7_3_7_3 7_3_7_3- 


O — i—2—4—2 4— 2— 4— 2 42 42- 

C _8_6— 8— 6 — 8— 6—8— 6 


K-1- 

-3- 


-1 — 5-1- 


C42- 


-42 4—2 


-8—6 


Explanation  of  Draft  No.  30. 


Th's  pattern  i«  formed  with  8 treadles,  and  8 wings  : the  wings  are  represented 
as  being  in  two  divisions,  with  4 wings  in  each. 

Draw  the  first  thread  on  the  back  division,  wing  A,  fig.  1,  next  on  C,  fig.  2,  next 
on  B,  then  C,  which  forms  one  change,  next  draw  on  the  front  division,  wings  E, 
G,  F,  G,  E,  H,  F,  H,  and  so  on  through,  as  the  draft  directs,  being  60  threads  in 
tlie  figure.  You  will  then  begin  again  as  at  first. 

The  three  stripes  or  colunis  of  blocks,  on  the  left  side  of  the  plate,  are  not  to 
b e drawn  the  first  time  over,  as  tliey  are  merely  laid  down  to  make  the  figure 
appear  squan',  like  the  cloth  : they  will  be  drawn  w'hen  you  eomraence  again, 
as  will  be  seen  by  cbscning  tUe  right  hand  side  of  the  plate, 


AIANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


95 


Gordina:  and  Tread  for  No.  30. 


Cording. 


I I t I I 
i > t“l  l_ 

*1  V I } 

I 


I I I > 1 I I 
'«"i  I illy 
T r I I III" 


— a 


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3 


1 

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I I I A I 5 

lllsri 

iiiiiUi 
1 12!  IMi 
lU  3!!! 


2 
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ki 

*11 
* I I 
6) 
8| 

I* 


1 

if' 

! 5 


In  the  cording  there  are  32  long  cords, 
and  32  short  cords. 

TREAD. 

The  first  tread  is  on  I,  fig.  1,  under  the 
cording;  next  on  P,  fig.  2,  J,  P,  which  is 
one  change;  next  on  K,  N,  L,  N,  K,  M,  L, 
M,  and  so  on  through  the  whole  draft  as  di- 
rected, being  60  treads.  You  will  then  be- 
gin on  I,  fig.  1,  as  at  first. 


7! 

1 

!3i 

!!!5 

!|7 

u 


3 


1 

3! 
15 
7! 

3! 
7‘ 

, !U!l 

n4!3iil 

POXML  K J I 

I I I I Ml  1 
Treadles. 


4| 
16 
Is 
2 
4 

6 

8 


97 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


No.  31,  Cross  and  Circle  Coverlet. 


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I 


Explanation  of  Draft  No.  31. 

This  pattern  is  fonned  with  6 trearlles,  and  8 wings.  The  wings  are  represent- 
ed as  being  in  4 divisions,  with  2 wings  in  each. 

The  learner  will  observe,  that  the  drawing  of  the  threads  is  commenced  on  the 
third  stripe  or  block  of  the  plate,  and  ends  on  the  fourth  stripe  from  the  left.  The 
blocks  on  the  right,  and  left  side  of  the  plate,  that  are  Mt  represented  as  being 
drawn,  are  placed  there  merely  to  exhibit  the  figure  (asmcafly  as  room  will  per- 
mit) in  the  cloth.  The  first  thread  is  drawn  on  wing  C,  fig.  1,  second  division, 
next  on  D,  fig.  2,  and  SO  On  until  the  draft  is  through,  being  83  threads,  then  be- 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


m 


Cording  and  Tread  for  No.  3 1 


Cording. 

Ill  II? 


I I I I I 


I I I I I 


1 

1 

1 

}2 

1 

|4 

1! 

! 

2 

|3 

1 

1 

4 

51 

6 

|1! 

2 

3| 

4 

|5 

6 

1! 

|2 

|3 

j4 

5! 

i 

1 

jo 

il 

1! 

!2 

3!!l 

!4 

!5M 

!6 

li 

2 

1 

4 

1 

6 

j 

!7 

8 

1 

lj2 

1 

134 

5\6 

|78 

i! 

2 

i3 

4 

5i 

6 

17 

8 

13 

5! 

12 

]4 

‘7 

|8 

S^MLK  JI 
f > I f I f 

treatl/es. 


In  the  cording  there  are  24  long  cords,  and 
24  short  cords. 

TREJD. 

In  the  whole  ti*ead  of  this  pattern,  there  are 
18  changes,  being  tlie  same  number  as  in  the 
drawing  of  the  threads.  There  are  only  7 
changes  represented  in  the  treadle  draft  for  want 
of  room ; these  seven,  as  also  the  rest  of  the 
changes,  have  double  the  number  of  treads  than 
there  are  threads  in  the  drawing : this  is  cau- 
sed by  the  bindin2:yam,  which  is  ti'odby  tread- 
les N,  M, 

It  will  be  observ'ed  that  the  left  foot  is  contin- 
ued on  treadles  N,  M,  through  the  whole  draft 
of  treading,  which  is  84  treads,  and  84  treads 
with  the  right  foot  also. 

Begin  the  tread  on  treadle  N,  fig.  1,  under 
the  cording,  next  right  foot  on  I,  fig.  2,  M,  I, 
this  is  one  change  or  4 treads  : next  on  N,  J, 
and  so  on  16  treads,  which  is  the  second 
change.  Next  tread  with  the  right  foot  on  I, 
twelve  treads,  K,  8,  L,  8,  J,  8,  I,  8 : this  makes 
all  the  changes  that  are  represented  on  the  tread- 
les; tlien  continue  K,  12  treads,  L,  12,  K,  4, 
L,  12,  K,  12,  I,  8,  J,  8,  L,  8,  K,  8, 1,  12,  J,  12; 
the  whole  treading  in  the  draft  or  figure  is  no\r 
through,  being  168  treads. 


99 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


Explanation  of  Draft  and  Plate  No.  33. 

This  draft  represents  the  figure  as  being  once  dran  n 
over  ; it  takes  two  thirds  of  the  third  block,  from  the 
right,  (the  white  spaces  being  called  blocks  as  well  as 
those  that  are  black,)  and  continues  to  the  left,  fourteen 
changes.  As  you  take  only  a part  of  the  block  first 
mentioned,  and  a part  of  the  third,  from  the  left,  it 
makes  but  one  block,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  draft. 

The  pattern  is  formed  with  6 treadles  and  8 wings  ; 
the  wings  are  represented  as  being  in  four  divisions, 
with  t\vo  wings  in  each.  The  draft  is  begun  thus — 
first  thread  drawn  on  wing  A,  fig.  1,  back  di\  ision,  next 
on  B,  fig.  2,  next  on  A,  B,  C,  D,  C,  D,  C,  D,  A,  B, 
A,  B,  A,  B,  E,  F,  G,  H,  E,  F,  and  so  on  until  the 
draft  is  once  over,  when  you  will  begin  again  on  A, 
lig.  1,  as  at  first ; 48  threads  form  the  figiu'e. 


Explanation  of  Cording  and  Tread  for  No.  32. 

In  the  cording  there  are  24  long  cords  and  24  short 
eords. 

TRE.iD. 

The  first  tread  is  on  treadle  I,  fig.  1,  next  N,  fig.  2, 
J,  N,  I,  N,  J,  N,  which  is  one  change  ; continue  through 
as  the  draft  directs,  being  15  changes  in  the  whole,  and 
96  treads,  which  completes  the  figure  ; you  will  then 
begin  again  as  at  first  on  treadle  I,  fig.  1. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


99 


No.  32,  Eight  Shaft  Coverlet. 


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I 


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I 


100 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

Cording  and  Tread,  of  No.  3S 


Cording^ 


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MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 
No.  33.  Broad  Cloth. 


101 


Cording 

*1  \ "" 

I I " 

"i  I 

This  clotli  is  wove  with  2 treadles,  and  four 
wings  in  the  harness  ; and  has  4 long  cords  tliat 
connect  the  short  lams  and  treadles,  and  4 short 
cords  that  are  fixed  to  the  long  lams  and  tread- 
les. Tlie  draft  is  represented  as  being  drawn 
over  once.  First  draw  n thread  is  on  the  back 
wing,  figiue  ],  then  2,  3,  4.  You  w ill  then  be- 
gin again  on  the  back  wing  as  before,  and  so 
proceed  until  ail  the  threads  are  drawn.  In  the 
treading,  figure  1 is  for  the  right  foot  and  figure  2 for 
the  left. 

Twenty  eight  pounds  of  v/ocllen  yam  should  warp 
63  yards,  or  in  that  proportion ; let  the  fineness  be  2|,  3, 
3§,  4 or  4 1 runs  to  the  pound. 

Tw'enty-eight  pounds  4|  runs  to  the  pound,  63  yards, 
80  beers,  eleven  quarters  wide. 

28  lbs.  4 runs  to  the  ^xnind,  63  yards,  72  beers,  10| 
quarters  wide. 

28  lbs.  3§  runs  to  the  jx)und,  63  yards,  62  beers, 
10  quarters  wide. 

28  lbs.  3 mns  to  the  pound,  63  yards,  54  beers,  9| 
quarters  wide. 

. 28  lbs.  2§  mns  to  the  pound,  63  yards,  45  beers,  9 
quarters  wide. 

Tor  further  explanation,  see  subject  of  w'oollen  wea- 
ving. 

L 


Craft. 


102 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 
Ko.  34.  Casimere. 


Cording. 


Draft. 


— ] — 
:l3- 


I — C Harness. 


H 

p 

& 

o 

V3 


This  cloth  is  wove  with  4 treadles  and  four 
wings,  and  has  8 long  cords  that  -connect  the 
short  lams  and  treadles,  and  8 short  cords  that 
are  fixed  to  the  long  lams  and  treadles.  In  the 
draft  the  1st  thread  is  dramion  the  back  wing, 
fig.  1,  then  2, 3, 4.  You  will  then  begin  again  at 
figure  1,  and  so  proceed  through  until  afi  the 
threads  are  drawn.  In  the  treading,  figure  1 
is  the  first  tread  with  the  right  foot,  and  fig- 
ure 2 is  the  next  with  the  left,  figure  3 is  the  next  for 
the  right  foot,  and  figure  4,  for  the  left — then  begin  a- 
gain  on  figure  1. 

The  two  kinds  of  Casimere,  single  and  double  mil- 
led, are  wove  in  the  same  w'ay  : the  difference  is  made 
in  the  filling. 

The  double  milled  should  be  made  of  slack  filling, 
and  the  single  milled  of  twist,  nearly  tlie  same  as  the 
Vvarp. 

Fifteen  pounds  five  runs  to  the  pound  is  sufficient  for 
a warp  of  sixty-three  yards  long — 48  beers  in  the  haiv 
ness,  24  reed,  4 threads  in  a split — 5 quarters  wide,. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


105 


No.  35.  Satinet, 


Cording;. 

I I • 

1 n*rr 

j » < 

*ri  I •'“i* 


Draft. 


<N  { O 1 C‘3  I 

1 I I i I I 


— 5- 


— 6 


This  cloth  is  wove  ivith  six  treadles  and  six 
shafts  or  n ings,  and  is  wove  one  yard  and  one 


eighdi  wide. 


Begin  to  di'aw  on  the  back 


wing,  figure  1,  tlien  through  2,  3, 4,  5,  6,  then 
begin  again  at  figure  1. 

In  the  cording-  there  are  6 long  cords  and  30 
short  cords.  The  first  tread  is  on  figure  1 , 
the  next  on  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  tlien  begin  the  tread 
again  on  fig.  1. 

Cotton  warp  No.  17,  is  suitable  for  a 30 
slaie — No.  18,  fora  32  slaie — No’s.  19  & 20 
for  a 34  slaie.  Draw  three  threads  in  a split, 
and  fill  with  slack  twisted  woollen  yam,  three  runs  to 
the  pound. 


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DYEING  OF  COTTON. 


Remarks  and  Directions  on  Preparing  and  Dyirig  Cot- 
ton Yarn. 

In  tlie  first  place  we  will  notice  that  cotton  yam 
must  be  well  cleansed,  by  making  it  free  from  its  nat- 
ural oil,  before  it  can  be  dyed  in  a complete  manner. 
Before  this  is  done,  it  is  necessary  for  the  yam  to  be 
put  in  a proper  form.  We  shall  therefore  now  give 
directions  to  prepare  the  yam  for  boiling. 

Take  a 5 pound  bundle  of  cotton  yam,  and  form  the 
whole  into  links  or  a chain,  which  is  done  in  the  follow- 
ing manner ; after  first  taking  notice  that  for  coarse  yam 
you  will  take  about  3 skeins  for  a link,  but  yam  that  is 
No.  14  or  finer,  take  6 skeins. 

First  take  3 skeins  and  place  them  together  at  whole 
length,  then  take  three  more  and  pass  through  the  first, 
and  double  the  last;  then  three  more  are  to  be  put 
through  the  two  loops  of  the  last,  and  so  on  until  you 
have  made  5 pounds  into  a chain,  taking  one  of  the 
skeins  to  loop  through  the  last  end  to  secure  it. 

Those  dyers  who  color  yarn  for  manufacturing 
establishments,  or  for  others  in  large  quantities,  will 
find  it  necessary  to  mark  the  yam,  so  that  each  kind 
may  be  kept  separate,  and  returned  in  a regular  mari- 
ner ; indeed  this  plan  must  be  adopted  as  a rule  ; for  it 
will  be  found  impossible  to  keep  the  different  numbers 
separate  without ; especially  in  boiling  different  num- 
bers at  once. 

We  shall  now  give  directions  to  mark  the  j'arn  as 
we  have  practiced,  which  will  be  easily  imderstood. — 
First  take  a piece  of  strong  twine  about  a foot  long,  and 
put  it  through  the  loop  of  the  last  skein  in  the  linked 
chain  ; then  draw  both  ends  of  the  twine  together,  and 
L 2 


106 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


make  a knot  with  both  branches  of  the  twine  near  the 
loop  of  tlie  yam.  This  knot  made  with  both  branch- 
es of  the  twine,  you  will  always  count  or  call  as  10,  and 
answers  for  No.  10  yam.  Should  a bundle  of  yam  be 
No.  12,  then  you  must  make  one  large  knot,  and  two 
small  knots  on  the  single  branch  of  the  twine,  as  tlje 
small  knots  count  one  each,  and  the  large  ones  10  each. 
If  yoiu*  yarn  is  No.  20,  make  two  large  knots.  If  it  is 
No.  22,  make  two  Targe  knots  and  two  small  ones  ; in 
this  way  you  can  mark  any  number  you  wish,  which 
mark  will  keep  on  through  the  operations  of  boiling, 
dyeing  and  drying. 

After  your  yam  is  all  chained  up  and  marked  for  one 
boiling,  you  will  then  prepare  your  boiler  with  a suffi- 
cient quantity  of  water  to  cover  your  yarn  while  boiling. 
After  the  water  has  arrived  at  a scalding  heat,  for  every 
5 pounds  of  yarn,  put  in  half  an  ounce  of  pearlash ; 
^vhen  it  is  dissolved,  put  in  your  yam  and  boil  it  well 
foi'  about  live  or  six  hours,  adding  water  occasionally. 

The  yam  is  next  to  be  taken  out  and  cooled  so  that 
you  will  be  able  to  take  the  links  apart  with  your  hands ; 
as  you  take  the  links  apart,  you  will  count  it  off  into 
pound  bunches,  and  put  5 pounds  of  one  number  on  5 
sticks,  and  those  5 sticks  to  be  kept  together;  in  this 
way  proceed  with  the  rest,  observing  to  examine  the 
twine  in  the  first  place,  to  be  sure  of  the  number  before 
you  begin  to  count  it  off. 

After  you  have  counted  it  all  off  and  placed  the  yam 
on  the  sticks,  you  wtt  then  rinse  it,  by  taking  5 pounds 
at  a time  and  turning  it  in  a half  hogshead  nearly  full  of 
water,  resting  the  sticks  on  tu"o  narrow  strips  of  board 
which  are  placed  on  the  top  of  the  tub.  When  you 
jiave  turned  the  yam  for  five  minutes,  take  another 
stiip  of  board  which  you  must  have  handy,  and  place 
across  the  two  other  strips ; then  bring  up  one  pound 
of  }'am  at  a time,  until  you  put  up  the  5 pounds ; 
then  let  it  drain,  and  proceed  with  the  rest  in  the  same 
manner. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


107 


In  the  next  place  the  yam  is  to  be  wung  and  shook 
out  with  care,  minding  not  to  break  it.  Cotton 
yam  is  nTung  in  different  ways,  sometimes  on  a MTing- 
ing  machine,  and  in  some  dye  houses  on  a pin  fixed 
horizontally  into  a post ; this  last  manner  of  Avringing 
has  one  advantage  over  the  other  which  is  this;  the  yam 
is  continually  kept  on  the  dye  sticks.  Care  must  be 
observed  to  keep  each  five  pounds  together  through  all 
the  operations  of  rincing,  Avringing,  dyeing  and  drying, 
Avhich  is  very  easy  after  a little  practice. 

Cotton  yam  is  dyed  on  sticks,  Avhich  are  about  tAA  o 
feet  in  length  and  about  one  inch  in  diameter  ,but  some- 
times little  more  where  the  yam  is  Avrung  on  the  stick  and 

})in.  Dye  sticks  should  be  made  of  hard  Avood  that  is  not 
iable  to  get  rough,  as  they  should  be  entirely  smooth 
to  prevent  injuring  theyamAvhile  you  are  wringing,  sha- 
king out,  or  turning  it  in  the  dye. 

In  dyeing  most  colors  on  cotton  yam  in  dye  houses, 
(excepting  mdigo  blue)  20  sticks  are  used,  and  gener- 
ally one  pomid  is  put  on  each  stick,  Avhich  are  rested 
on  two  narroAV  slips  of  boards  over  a tub  or  half  hogs- 
head. The  yam  is  then  tinned  one  pound  after  anoth- 
er in  the  dye  liquor,  a longer  or  shorter  time  as  occa- 
sion requires. 

In  dyeing  almost  every  kind  of  color  on  cotton,  you 
will  have  your  dyes  no  hotter  than  you  can  endure  your 
hand  in  while  dipping  the  yam. 

The  yam  is  commonly  received  from  factories  in  5 
pound  bundles,  and  is  to  be  returned  in  the  same  quan- 
tity in  a bundle,  but  not  generally  in  the  same  manner. 
The  most  common  method  has  been  to  dry  5 pounds 
on  a pole,  having  the  number  marked  on  the  pole  with 
chalk,  which  is  done  soon  as  the  yam  is  dyed  ; this  is 
done  for  the  sake  of  convenience  in  many  cases ; but 
should  there  be  a failui'e  in  marking  the  number  with 
chalk,  or  should  it  get  rubbed  off,  still  the  marked 


108 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


tvvine  on  one  of  the  skeins  for  every  5 pounds,  will  dis- 
tinguish the  right  number. 

After  the  yam  is  dry,  for  instance,  a pole  containing 
5 pounds  of  No.  12,  you  will  begin  and  collect  12 
skeins  with  your  right  hand,  by  slipping  them  into  the 
left ; in  taking  the  last  skein  of  the  twelve,  you  will 
slip  it  through  the  rest,  and  make  a noose  or  loop, 
which  makes  a pound  bimch,  and  so  proceed  with  any 
other  numbers,  either  warp  or  filling.  You  will  then 
take  the  five  looped  skeins  that  secure  the  pound  bunch- 
es and  slip  them  off  the  pole  and  twist  them  a little  to- 
gether, and  \\  hen  you  carry  the  yam  into  a room,  lay  it 
down  and  mark  the  number  with  chalk  near  it.  When 
you  put  up  each  5 pounds  lay  it  lengthwise  and  save 
out  2 skeins  to  bind  it ; then  put  a printed  or  written 
ticket  on  it  explaining  the  number. 

By  following  this  method  of  putting  up  yam  in  pound 
bunches,  it  wall  saA^e  manufacturers  Avho  put  out  pieces 
to  weave,  a great  deal  of  time,  especially  if  the  dyer  is 
faithful  in  counting  the  yarn  right. 

In  making  out  piece^  to  weavers,  it  is  essential  that 
the  warp  is  counted  e:^act.  Some  manufacturers  count 
the  warp  over  after  the  dyer,  to  be  convinced  that  it  is 
exact,  but  not  the  filling,  AA^iere  it  is  put  up  in  pound 
bunches. 


Observations  on  Preparing  and  Dyeing  Cotton  Yarn  in 
small  quantities^  calculated  for  families. 

In  preparing  small  quantities  of  yam  for  boiling,  we 
recommend  to  make  it  into  a chain ; which  meth- 
od will  be  found  described  in  the  first  part  of  the  first 
remarks ; also  the  manner  of  mai'king  the  yam  and 
boiling  it. 

It  Avill  first  be  noticed  that  cotton  yam  for  all  colors 
is  to  be  dyed  on  sticks,  having  the  sticks  placed  on  the 
top  of  a tub  or  kettle  while  turning  the  yam,  each  stick 
containing  on^"  oound.  Families  A’/ill  not  often  have  oc- 


MANUFA  CTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


109 


Oiision  to  use  large  tubs  or  kettles  in  dyeing  cotton.  In 
using  small  ones,  it  will  be  found  inconvenient  to  wring 
a pound  of  yam  over  them ; tlierefore  when  you  MTing 
the  yarn,  either  the  first  time  after  being  rinsed,  or  in 
the  course  of  dyeing,  you  will  wing  only  2 or  3 skeins 
' at  a time  ; it  is  then  to  be  shook  out  straight  and  pla- 
ced in  a sepai'ate  manner  on  the  sticks. 

Directions  will  now  be  given  to  prepare  a tub  or  ket- 
tle to  die  5 pounds  of  yam.  A half  baivel  tub,  or  ket- 
tle that  ^vill  contaui  nearly  as  much  liquor,  will  be  large 
enough  to  die  5 poimds.  In  this  case  you  will  have  5 
sticks,  with  a pound  on  a stick.  The  yam  is  to  be  put 
in  the  dye  all  at  once,  and  turned  as  long  a time  as  will 
be  here^ter  mentioned  in  tlie  receipts. 

Should  you  color  less  than  5 pounds,  your  tub  or 
kettle  may  be  small  in  proportion,  and  observe  that 
your  dye  for  cotton  must  be  as  warm  as  you  can  bear 
the  hand  in  while  dipping  the  yam.  When  you 
WTing  the  yarn  out  of  the  dye,  first  move  the  sticks 
one  side  of  the  tub  or  kettle,'' taking  one  small  parcel  off 
from  the  stick  at  a time  until  all  of  it  is  wrung ; then 
shake  it  out  and  place  it  on  the  sticks  as  before. 

We  recommend  to  all  families  who  often  have  oc- 
casion to  dry  white  or  colored  yam,  to  use  smooth  poles, 
having  the  yam  himg  the  u^hole  length  of  the  skein  ; in 
this  way  yam  will  dry  not  or’y  more  even  and  quicker, 
but  keep  in  better  order  for  weavmg. 

N.  B.  Where  families  want  to  boil  out  cotton  yam, 
tliey  can  use  soap  suds  instead  of  peaii  ash,  if  tliey  like.- 


Observations  on  boiling  Dtje  Woods. 

It  will  not  be  improper  to  observe  that  when  any 
kind  of  wood  whatever  is  used  in  d3^eing,  it  must  first 
be  cut  into  smafi  sha\dngs  or  chips,  and  put  loosely 
into  a thin  coarse  bag,  that  it  may  not  stick  to  the  wool- 
len cloth  or  yarn,  as  the  rough  chips  will  not  only  tear 


no 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


the  goods,  but  cloud  or  blot  them  iu  those  places  where 
they  stick.  N.  B.  Observe  always  to  have  a plenty 
of  dye  liquor,  so  that  your  cloth  and  yarn  may  be  dy- 
ed even. 

When  chips  are  boiled  up  for  dyeing  cotton,  the  chips 
must  be  allowed  to  settle  at  the  bottom  of  the  kettle, 
then  pour  the  clear  part  off  into  a tub ; this  is  where  the 
chips  are  not  put  in  a bag.  Families  that  have  no  spare 
kettles  can  put  the  chips  into  a bag,  and  use  the  same 
kettle  for  dipping  the  cotton.  Should  they  put  in  the 
chips  loose  in  tlie  dye  to  boil,  they  can  strain  it  through 
a clean  basket,  or  very  coarse  open  nmve  cloth.  In  all 
cases  cotton  y arn  must  be  dyed  in  a clear  dye  free  from 
any  chips. 


On  vats  used  in  dyeing  blue  on  cotton  & linen. 

The  vats  used  in  d)^eing  blue  on  cotton  and  linen  in 
the  cold  dye,  are  of  various  kinds  and  sizes,  such  as 
rum  hogsheads,  brandy  pipes,  and  pine  vats.  The 
last  kind  are  usually  made  particularly  for  dyeing,  and 
should  be  of  the  best  white  pine  plank  thoroughly  season- 
ed, sound  and  entirely  free  from  knots.  The  staves  should 
be  at  least  one  inch  and  a quarter  thick  when  finished, 
and  bound  ^vith  iron  hoops. 

Iron  bound  hogsheads  are  generally  used  at  most 
dye  houses  from  being  so  easily  procured ; they  will  an- 
swer very  well  to  color  cotton  yam  in  once  a day,  but 
will  not  do  for  linen,  as  the  skeins  of  linen  being  so 
long  would  distui'b  the  sediment  of  the  dye  ; therefore 
the  vats  intended  for  dyeing  linen  should  be  made  tall- 
er in  proportion.  The  top  of  such  vats  may  be  made 
about  the  size  of  a common  hogshead,  and  largest  at 
the  bottom. 

When  hogsheads  are  procured  for  dyeing  blue  on 
cotton  yam,  choose  those  which  are  iron  bound,  and 
sound  in  every  part.  In  first  preparing  a hogshead  for 
dyeing,  great  care  must  be  taken  to  stop  the  bung  hole 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


Ill 


entirely  tight,  as  the  indigo  dye  is  of  a penetrating  na- 
ture, and  in  case  it  should  leak,  you  would  loose  tlie 
best  part  of  it.  In  order  to  secure  the  bimg  tight,  you 
will  take  a square  piece  of  cotton  or  linen  cloth,  then 
mb  on  some  tar  and  double  it  about  twice,  having  the 
;ar  on  the  inside,  place  the  cloth  on  the  end  of  the  bung 
ind  drive  it  in  firmly,  and  it  will  not  leak. 

When  you  have  taken  the  head  out  of  your  hogs- 
lead,  you  must  get  a cooper’s  circular  shave  to  smooth 
he  inside  of  the  upper  half  of  the  hogshead,  to  prevent 
my  injury  to  the  yam  while  dipping.  The  hogshead 
s then  to  be  washed  thoroughly  with  a broom  or  brush ; 
hen  rinsed  out  well  and  filled  witli  water  to  soak  for 
wo  or  three  days ; then  throw  out  the  water,  and  it  will 
)e  fit  for  use. 

Before  you  set  your  hogshead  of  blue  dye,  you  will 
;ake  two  pieces  of  timber  or  scantling  4 or  5 inches 
square,  each  piece  being  as  long  as  the  bottom  of  the 
logshead  is  in  width,  then  match  them  together  in  the 
middle,  by  saw'ing  out  a gap  in  each  part : this  will  fonn 
i cross  for  the  hogshead  to  stand  on ; by  this  method 
mu  can  save  the  dye  should  it  leak. 


Yarn  Frame, 

This  frame  is  used  to  hang  the  sticks  of  yam  across 
hrough  all  the  operations,  from  the  boiling  of  the  yam 
mtil  it  is  finished  dyeing.  It  is  generally  made  8 or 
10  feet  in  length  in  dye  houses,  and  should  be  a little 
larrower  than  the  length  of  the  dye  sticks,  aiid  about 
lalf  a foot  higher  than  the  length  of  the  cotton  skeins. 


Ohsei'TOtions  on  grinding  Indigo. 

There  are  many  different  methods  practiced  in  grihd- 
:ig  Indigo;  we  tJiink  it  not  necessary  to  explain  them 


a 12  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

all,  but  shall  attempt  to  point  out  two  or  three  kinds 
which  will  be  adapted  for  dyeing  blue  on  a large  and 
small  scale. 

The  mill  which  we  most  approve  of  for  grinding  In- 
digo, on  a large  or  moderate  scale  of  blue  dyeing,  is  the 
tub  mill,  which  is  of  a simple  constmction,  worfc  easy, 
and  perfoiTOs  the  business  well  and  in  a short  time. 

The  tub  is  made  of  cast  iron,  and  may  be  about  18 
inches  in  height,  16  inches  across  the  top,  and  14| 
inches  across  the  bottom  on  the  inside  t the  bottom 
must  be  flat  and  cast  as  smooth  as  possible.  On  the 
centre  of  tlie  bottom  must  be  a step  of  iron,  which 
should  be  formed  to  the  kettle  when  cast.  This  step 
should  be  abv  ut  cne  inch  and  a quarter  across  and 
one  third  of  an  inch  in  height,  which  is  for  the  end  of 
the  shaft  to  run  on.  The  step  mustbe  msade  of  a round 
form  tvith  a hollow  on  the  top  of  it  for  the  shaft  to  run 

in.  . . 

In  the  next  place  4 cast  iron  cones  will  be  wanting, 
the  length  of  v Inch  must  be  such  as  to  run  easy  be- 
tween the  step  and  outside  of  the  tub;  so  that  accord- 
ing to  the  diameter  of  the  bottom  of  the  tub  and  step, 
the  cones  will  be  6|  inches  in  length.  The  large  end 
of  the  cones  may  be  about  4 or  4|  inches  in  diameter 
and  the  small  end  about  § an  inch.  The  large  ends 
must  be  a little  rounding,  so  that  they  vcill  run  easy  a- 
roLind  the  side  of  the  tub. 

A shaft  is  to  be  placed  perpendicular  in  the  centre  oi 
the  tub,  the  bottom  of  u hich  is  to  run  on  the  step. 
This  must  have  an  iron  cross  fastened  on  it  near  the 
bottom  which  is  fixed  to  clrh  e and  roll  round  the  cones. 
These  four  bnmehes  of  iron  which  form  the  cross  must 
be  hardened  and  may  be  made  nearly  half  an  inch  in  di- 
ameter, and  of  proper  lengtlr.  These  branches  musi 
be  calculated  to  strike  a little  under  the  centre  of  th( 
cones  so  as  to  drive  and  roll  them  in  a proper  manner. 

The  shaft  may  be  m,ade  of  a square  bar  of  iron  wid 
tlie  lower  end  hardened.  Tov.ards  the  upper  end  yot 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


115 


will  ha\  e a small  drum  or  pully  for  a belt  or  sfrap  which 
can  be  put  in  motion  by  attaching  it  to  other  machiner 
ry  or  otherwise. 

On  the  top  of  the  tub  a cover  must  be  fixed,  formed 
of  two  boards  with  a hole  left  in  the  middle  for  the 
shaft  to  run  in,  which  may  be  made  in  such  a manner 
as  to  steady  the  shaft  while  turning,  or  to  fix  something 
for  that  puiiDose  above  it.  After  your  tub  is  cast,  yon 
must  drill  a hole  in  tlie  bottom  of  it,  one  quarter  of  an 
inch  in  diameter,  and  about  trvo  inches  from  the  side  ; 
this  you  Avill  have  stopped  v\  ith  a wooden  pin  while 
grinding  the  indigo.  When  it  is  ground  as  fine  as  oil 
pour  in  ater  to  make  it  quite  thin. 

The  tub  must  stand  firmly  on  a low  bench,  so  high 
as  to  allow  a pail  to  be  put  under  it : in  this  manner  you 
can  draw  it  off  the  most  convenienth^  Observe  that 
the  addition  of  water  must  not  be  made  until  it  is  gi'oimd 
sufficiently  to  draw  off. 

Before  you  put  in  the  indigo  to  grind,  it  must  be 
soaked  in  water,  then  broken  up  so  much  as  not  to  clog 
the  cones,  w'hich  are  to  be  placed  between  the  four 
branches  with  the  small  ends  next  to  the  step. 

It  wall  be  found  necessary  in  making  the  w ooden  tub 
and  cones  for  patterns  to  cast  by,  that  great  care  should 
be  taken  to  calculate  the  length  and  shape  of  the  cones  ; 
which  wail  be  first  governed  by  the  size  and  shape  of 
the  tub,  and  the  distance  between  the  step  and  side  ; 
and  it  wall  be  found  necessar}^  to  try  the  rolling  of  the 
wooden  cone  before  it  can  be  determined  w hether  it  is 
ris:ht  or  not. 

In  making  the  tub  pattern  and  cone,  it  w ill  be  well 
to  observe  that  they  must  be  made  of  clear  white  pine 
stuff  and  that  the  staA^es  of  the  tub  may  be  glued  to- 
gether. 

Having  known  this  kind  of  mill  to  operate  excee- 
dingly wtII,  w'e  have  felt  a desffe  that  the  plan  might 
be  generally  knowoi  among  dyers,  and  have,  therefore, 
been  particular  to  explain  tlie  principle  and  dimensions, 

M 


114 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


in  such  a manner  that  any  experienced  workman  might 
make  the  pattern.  From  the  circumstance  of  cones 
having  more  surface  than  round  balls,  which  operate  in 
grinding,  it  will  at  once  be  concluded  that  tlie  former 
are  the  best. 

The  common  indigo  mill,  which  is  carried  by  water, 
is  nothing  more  tlw  a common  iron  kettle,  that  u ill 
contain  from  3 to  5 pails  full;  having  a perpendicular 
shaft  with  an  iron  cross  near  the  bottom  which  drives 
round  one,  two  or  more  cannon  balls. 

The  common  method  of  grinding  indigo  by  hand  is 
to  suspend  an  iron  pot,  of  a suitable  size,  with  a rope, 
and  using  a cannon  ball,  which  is  rolled  round  by  ta- 
king hold  of  the  legs  with  the  hands.  • The  indigo  is 
first  soaked  in  hot  water,  then  broken  up  fine  and  put 
in  the  pot  a little  at  a time,  with  a sufficient  quantity  of 
water  to  prevent  the  indigo  from  sticking  to  the  sides 
and  bottom.  The  ball  is  then  to  be  rolled  round  fora- 
bout  one  hour ; then  add  some  water  to  make  it  quite 
thin,  and  roll  the  ball  a few  times  round  to  mix  it ; then 
hold  the  pot  still  two  or  three  minutes,  and  pour  ofi'  the 
clear  part  carefully,  into  a kettle. 

You  will  then  add  a little  more  indigo  and  water  and 
proceed  as  before,  until  it  is  all  ground.  In  this  way 
you  can  grind  it  as  fine  as  oil. 

Indigo  may  be  ground  fine,  fpr  the  use  of  families, 
wdth  an  iron  mortar  and  pestle.  First  pound  all  the  in- 
digo as  fine  as  coarse  gun  powder ; then  put  a little  m- 
digo  in  the  mortar  at  a time,  and  add  a little  v/ater,  but 
not  so  much  as  to  occasion  it  to  slop  over  ^^-hile  stir- 
ring round  the  pestle  on  the  bottom;  You  will  work  it 
roimd  in  that  manner  for  about  half  an  hour ; then  add 
some  water  and  mix  it ; then  let  it  stand  till  it  settles, 
then  pour  off  the  clear  part ; then  add  a little  more  in- 
digo, and  proceed  as  before.  In  this  way  you  can  grind 
it  entirely  fine. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 
DIRECTION  I. 


115 


To  Dye  Blue  on  Cotton  and  Linen  in  the  Cold  Dye. 

In  the  first  place,  fill  a hogshead  about  one  quarter 
full  of  water. 

2.  Dissolve  16  pounds  copperas  in  about  four  pails 
full  of  warm  water,  in  a small  tub  or  kettle,  and  then 
add  it  to  the  water  in  the  hogshead  and  stir  it  for  two 
or  three  minutes,  then  put  8 pounds  of  finely  ground 
indigo  to  it,  and  rake  it  up  well,  for  about  five  minutes. 

3.  You  must  noiv  slack  20  pounds  of  good  stone 
lime  witli  water,  u hich  is  best  done  by  first  putting  the 
lime  into  a very  low  or  flat  tub.  When  die  lime  is 
slacked  to  a powder,  and  while  it  is  hot,-  put  it  into  the 
hogshead  and  rake  it  well  several  times  in  the  course 
of  two  or  three  hours. 

4.  The  hogshead  is  then  to  be  filled  with  w ater  w'ith- 
in  two  inches  of  the  top,  then  rake  it  well  several  times 
during  two  days,  then  leave  it  to  settle  over  night,  and 
on  the  morning  of  the  third  day,  it  will  be  ready  for 
dyeing. 

5.  If  the  dye  should  not  be  clear,  and  should 
not  have  a deep  blue  froth  or  scum  on  the  top,  you 
must  add  about  two  pounds  of  lime,  and  rake  it  two  or 
three  times  during  the  day,  and  the  next  morning  it  will 
be  fit  for  use. 

6.  If  tlie  sediment  of  the  dye  be  of  a yellowdsh  green 
the  dye  is  in  a good  condition ; but  if  it  is  of  a dull 
and  dark  grass  green  then  add  about  2 pounds  of  cop- 
peras which  you  must  dissolve  in  the  dye  by  the  help 
of  the  dye  rake,  (the  rake  is  made  by  putting  a handle 
through  a piece  of  hard  board,  in  the  form  of  one  third 
of  a circle,  having  the  rounding  edge  made  thin,)  by 
pounding  and  raking  Avith  it  on  the  bottom  of  the  dye 
vat.  In  case  the  dye  should  not  be  clear,  add  a little 
lime  and  it  will  settle  it.  If  the  froth  on  the  surface 


116 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


of  the  dye  should  be  of  a dull  blue  color,  add  some 
copperas  and  indigo,  m hich  will  restore  it  to  a right  state 
for  dyeing. 

7.  When  you  have  dyed  two  or  three  days  in  the 
dye,  you  must  put  into  it  about  2 pounds  of  copperas 
and  3 pounds  of  lime  ; then  beat  the  copperas  fine  on 
the  bottom  with  the  rake,  and  stir  it  up  until  it  is  dissol- 
ved. After  using  tlie  dye  a few  days,  should  you  find 
that  the  dye  wants  more  copperas  or  lime,  you  may 
know  by  attending  to  the  before  mentioned  rules,  how 
to  vary  the  quantity  of  the  articles  which  you  add ; but 
you  will  observe,  that  if  the  sediment  of  the  dye  is  of 
a dark  green,  it  wants  copperas,  but  if  it  bears  too  much 
on  the  yellow  it  requires  a little  lime. 

When  your  dye  is  ready  for  dipping,  place  two  nar- 
row sn  ips  of  ^vood  across  the  top  of  the  hogshead,  to 
rest  your  sticks  upon,  also  one  to  drain  the  yam  on. 


Method  of  Dyeing. 

1.  If  you  calculate  to  color  regularly  every  day,  to 
perform  with  advantage,  it  will  be  found  necessary  to 
boil  out  enough  yarn  at  once,  to  last  for  dyeing  at  least 
two  days.  After  you  have  rinsed  the  yarn  intended  to 
be  dyed  in  one  day,  you  will  Avring  it  hard  and 
even  a pound  at  a time,  and  shake  it  out  well,  and  place 
your  sticks  across  the  horse,  or  yam  frame,  observing 
not  to  shake  out  the  yam  till  a few  minutes  before  you 
begin  to  color  it,  as  otherwise  it  would  be  liable  to  get 
dry. 

2.  To  dye  blue  on  cotton,  in  a profitable  manner, 
there  should  always  be  several  blue  dyes,  in  a dye  house, 
so  that  you  may  haA'e  some  new  dyes,  some  with  about 
a quarter  of  the  strength  used  out,  some  about  half 
and  some  nearly  all  used  out. 

3.  Allowing  you  have  several  dyes,  as  above  stated, 
you  will  begin  to  dip  in  the  following  manner,  after  stir- 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


117 


rifig  in  the  frotli  of  the  dye.  Begin  by  dipping  5 lbs. 
of  yam  in  the  weakest  dye,  continually  turning  one 
pound  after  another,  for  about  10  minutes  ; then  take 
out  one  pound  after  another  and  place  them  across 
the  stick  to  drain.  You  will  then  wring  it  out  a little, 
on  a pin,  which  should  be  fixed  horizontally  in  a piece 
of  plank  over  the  hogshead ; then  carry  it  to  the  yarn 
frame  and  "UTing  it  out  on  the  wringing  machine,  or  on 
the  pin  which  is  to  be  fixed  into  a post  about  3 feet 
from  the  floor,  having  a small  tub  under  it  to  catch  the 
dye  ^vhich  you  wring  out. 

The  yai'n  is  to  be  shook  out  on  the  same  pin  which 
you  use  for  wringing ; placing  the  sticks  as  fast  as  you 
\\Ting  and  shake  them  out,  across  the  yam  frame. 

4.  You  may  dip  20  pounds  of  white  yarn  in  this  man- 
ner in  the  weakest  dye.  After  you  have  proceeded  in 
this  way  with  each  5 pound  parcel,  you  will  then  empty 
the  dye  which  you  have  \\Tung  out  in  the  tub,  back 
into  the  hogshead  which  you  have  just  dipped  in.  The 
liquor  must  be  put  back  again  in  the  same  way,  in  every 
die  that  you  dip  in. 

5.  You  will  now  observe  to  take  5 pounds  that  were 
dipped  last  in  the  weak  dye,  and  dip  in  the  second  or 
next  strongest,  of  which  the  strength  is  about  half  used 
out.  In  this  manner  proceed  with  the  remainder  of  the 
20  pounds,  observing  always  to  have  that  which  was 
dipped  last  in  each  of  the  dyes,  dipped  first  in  the  next 
strongest. 

6.  In  the  next  place,  go  through  with  the  20  pounds 
in  the  third  dye,  of  which  the  strength  is  about  one 
quarter  part  used  out ; and  lastly  give  each  5 pounds 
one  more  dip  in  a new  dye  or  the  best  you  have.  By 
this  method  you  will  dip  20  pounds  of  yam,  in  4 dyes 
of  different  strength  which  will  finish  it,  and  by  obser- 
ving this  rule  the  yam  will  be  well  penetrated,  and  of 
an  even  color. 

7.  If  your  yam  at  any  time  is  not  like  to  be  deep 
enough,  let  it  remain  in  the  dye  a longer  time,  but  if  it 

M 2 


IIS 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


is  like  to  be  too  dark,  then  shorter  dips  must  be  ob- 
served. 

After  you  have  finished  dyeing  for  one  day,  rake  up  ; 
all  the  dyes,  and  leave  them  to  settle  until  next  mor- 
ning. When  the  weakest  dyes  are  entirely  exhausted 
so  they  will  not  stain  the  yam,  throw  them  a^-,  ay,  rince 
out  the  vat  and  set  again.  Deep  blue  yam  is  not  gen-  ! 
erally  rinsed,  but  if  you  wish  a bright  color  you  can  ob- 
tain it  by  turning  your  yam  a fe^v  minutes  in  oil  of  vit- 
riol and  water,  having  it  only  as  sour  to  the  taste  as 
weak  vinegar ; then  ^\Ting,  rinse,  wring  again  and  dry  it. 


Pale  Blue. 

Wlien  you  wish  to  color  yam  pale  blue,  it  must  be 
done  by  giving  it  two  dips  of  three  minutes  each,  in  a 
dye  half  used  out,  or  three  dips  in  a dye  still  weaker  ; 
then  wring  and  air  it : afterwards  it  is  to  be  rinsed,  wrung 
and  dryed. 


DIRECTION  II. 

Yb  dye  Blue  on  Cotton  and  Linen  oyi  a small  scale  sui- 
table for  families. 

1.  Fill  a barrel  Avhich  is  well  bound,  clean  and  en- 
tirely tight,  about  a quarter  part  full  of  water. 

2.  Dissolve  4 pounds  of  copperas  in  a pail  of  warm 
water,  in  a clean  kettle,  and  add  it  to  the  water  in  the 
barrel : stir  it  up  two  or  three  minutes,  then  put  in  two 
pounds  of  finely  ground  indigo  of  a good  quality,  and 
stir  it  up  well  for  5 minutes. 

3.  In  the  next  place  you  must  slack  5 pounds  of 
stone  lime,  by  putting  it  into  a kettle,  then  sprinkle 
water  on  it  until  it  is  slacked  to  pow  der ; while  it  is  yet 
hot,  put  it  into  the  barrel,  and  stir  it  up  well  four  or  five 
times  in  the  course  of  two  hours ; then  fill  the  barrel  with 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


119 


water  within  two  inches  of  the  top  ; stir  it  several  times 
during  that  day  and  the  next,  and  tlie  morning  of  the 
third  day  it  will  be  in  order  for  dyeing  the  yarn. 

4.  Before  you  begin  to  dip  the  yarn,  you  must  fix  a 
small  frame,  or  other  convenience,  on  two  sides  of  the 
barrel,  to  rest  your  dj’-e-sticks  across  while  you  are  tur- 
ning the  yam  in  the  dye.  This  support  for  the  sticks 
should  be  about  6 or  8 inches  above  the  top  of  the  baiTel, 
to  prevent  the  ends  of  the  cotton  skeins  from  disturbing 
the  settlings  of  the  dye.  Should  linen  )'am  be  dyed 
in  a barrel  dye,  the  skeins  must  be  doubled  ; in  that 
case  the  sticks  ai'e  rested  on  the  top  of  the  barrel. 


Method  of  Dyeing. 

When  your  dye  is  new  you  can  color  five  pounds 
the  first  day  which  must  be  well  boiled  out  before  hand 
in  weak  peaii  ash  water,  or  soap  suds,  tlien  rinsed,  w rung 
and  shaken  out  as  described  in  the  first  remarks  on  pre- 
paring'yam  for  dyeing. 

1.  JPlace  two  pounds  and  a half  of  yarn  on  2 sticks, 
having  the  yam  di^ddecl  into  parcels  of  3 or  4 skeins, 
so  as  to  be  convenient  in  WTinging  it  out  of  the  dye ; 
then  stir  in  the  froth  on  the  top  \vitli  a stick.  You  will 
then  put  in  the  yam  and  turn  one  parcel  at  a time ; 
continue  turning  it  in  the  dye  for  10  minutes,  then  WTing 
out  one  parcel  at  a time,  shake  itoutw^ell  and  place  ita- 
gain  on  the  sticks  to  ah. 

2.  Now  take  the  remainder  of  the  white  yarn,  being 
two  pounds  and  a half,  and  put  it  on  two  more  sticks, 
and  proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  before.  Then 
WTing,  shake  out  and  air  it,  until  the  green  shade  chan- 
ges to  blue. 

3.  It  must  now  be  observed,  that  the  yam  which 
was  dipped  last, must  be  dipped  first  the  next  time,  in 
order  to  give  both  an  equal  share  of  the  strength  of  the  dye. 


120 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


You  will  proceed  in  this  manner  until  it  is  dark  enough, 
then  wring  and  dr}^  it. 

After  you  have  colored  5 pounds  of  j'arn  you  will 
find  the  dye  considerably  weaker,  so  tlie  second  day 
you  will  dye  a less  quantity,  and  repeat  the  dippings  as 
many  times  as  you  find  necessary, observing  to  wring  and 
air  between  each  dipping,  as  before  directed. 

When  you  have  colored  in  your  dye  two  days,  it 
must  be  recruited  a little,  by  putting  in  8 ounces  of 
copperas,  which  should  be  pounded  a little — also  put  in 
three  quarters  of  a pound  of  slacked  lime  ; then  stir  it 
up  well  for  15  minutes  with  a rake,  which  you  will  find 
described  in  direction  first.  The  next  morning  it  will 
be  in  order  for  dyeing. 

After  you  have  colored  in  your  dye  a few  days  you 
will  find  you  cannot  finish  dark  blues  ; but  middling 
and  pale  blues  can  be  dyed,  which  will  be  Avanted  for 
plaids,  &c. 

When  your  dye  is  so  much  reduced  that  it  will  not 
stain  yam  any  more,  throw  it  away,  Avash  out  the  barrel 
and  set  again. 

DIRECTION  III. 

Copperas  Color  on  Cotton. 

To  dye  5 pounds  of  yam  it  will  require 
1 pound  12  ounces  of  copperas, 

8 pounds  of  stone  lime, 

1 ounce  sugar  of  lead, 

4 ounces  of  pearl-ash, 

4 ounces  of  hog’s  lard. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of  pounds,  j 

The  yam  must  be  boiled  out  a day  before  hand,  butij 
for  tills  color  it  is  not  to  be  rinsed.  I 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


121 


Preparation. 

1.  A day  or  two  before  you  wish  to  color  your  yam, 
take  a kettle  that  will  contain  a pail  full,  into  which  you 
will  put  six  quarts  of  hot  water,  then  add  to  it  1 pound  12 
ounces  of  copperas,  and  1 ounce  of  sugar  of  lead ; stir 
it  well  until  it  is  all  dissolved,  and  when  it  is  made  use 
of,  mix  and  take  off  the  scum. 

2.  Another  kettle  or.  tub  is  then  to  be  prepared  which 
will  contain  half  a barrel  of  water  : in  this  you  will  put 
8 pounds  of  stone  lime,  and  slack  it  with  water  to  pow- 
der ; it  is  tlien  to  be  filled  up  with  water  and  stirred 
Avell  three  or  4 times  during  the  day,  then  leave  it  to 
settle  during  the  night.  When  it  is  used,  be  careful  to 
dip  out  the  clear  part  only. 

3.  Now  prepare  a tub  or  kettle,  which  is  to  be  used 
for  dipping  the  yam,  into  which  you  must  put  3 gal- 
lons of  water,  and  oile  gallon  of  the  prepared  copperas 
liquor. 

4.  Another  tub  or  kettle  is  to  be  prepared,  into  which 
you  will  put  6 gallons  of  clear  lime  water,  and  4 ounces 
of  pearlash.  When  these  two  last  tubs  are  prepared, 
you  must  then  ring  and  shake  out  the  yam,  and  place 
it  on  five  sticks. 


Method  of  Dyeing. 

1.  Begin  to  dip  your  yam  by  putting  the  5 pounds 
at  once  in  the  copperas  liquor,  resting  the  sticks  on  the 
kettle  or  tub.  l\im  one  pound  at  a time  continually 
for  about  15  minutes ; it  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  wrung 
and  aired. 

2.  In  the  next  place  dip  it  in  the  lime  and  pearlash 
liquor,  and  turn  it  as  before  for  10  minutes  ; then  take 
it  out,  wring  and  air  it  as  usual. 

3.  Now^  add  to  the  copperas  liquor  which  you  have 


122 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


dipped  in,  3 quarts  of  water,  and  one  quart  of  the  pre- 
pared copperas  liquor  and  mix  it  well  to2;ether. 

4.  The  lime  water  which  you  have  dipped  in  must 
now  be  emptied,  and  6 gallons  of  fresh  and  clear  lime 
water  put  in. 

5.  The  yam  is  now  to  be  dipped  in  the  copperas  li- 
quor for  15  minutes,  then  wrung  and  aired,  then  dipped 
in  the  lime  liquor  for  10  minutes  : it  is  then  to  be  ahed 
and  rinsed. 

6.  A tub  or  kettle  is  now  to  be  prepared  with  about 
6 gallons  of  boiling  Avater,  then  add  to  it  4 ounces  of 
hog’s  lard  ; mix  it  well  and  dip  the  yarn  in  it  for  about 
ten  minutes : it  is  tlien  to  be  taken  out,  wrung  and 
dried. 

N.  B.  Should  you  wish  for  nothing  more  than  a 
common  copperas  color,  you  may  leave  out  the  pearl- 
ash  and  sugar  of  lead. 

Those  who  wish  to  dye  tliis  or  any  other  color  on  a 
larger  scale,  must  use  the  dyeing  articles  in  the 
same  proportion.  The  greatest  part  of  the  receipts  we 
have  given  are  on  a small  plan,  but  it  will  be  found 
easy  to  calculate  the  quantity  of  liquor  and  size  of  the 
tubs  that  Avill  be  required,  to  dye  cotton  yam  in  larger 
quantities. 


DIRECTION  IV. 

Yellow  on  Cotton, 

To  dye  2 pounds  of  yarn  it  will  require  the  folIoAving 
articles. 

8 ounces  of  allum, 

1 an  ounce  of  pearlash, 

2 pounds  of  fustic, 

1§  ounces  of  blue  vitriol. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of  pounds. 
1.  The  yarn  should  be  boiled  out  a day  before  hand. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


12S 


aiid  after  the  same  method  as  will  be  found  in  the  first 
remarks  on  preparing  yam  for  dyeing,  it  is  then  to  be 
rinsed,  shook  out,  and  put  on  two  sticks. 

2.  Dissolve  in  a brass  kettle,  containing  a pail  full 
of  hot  water,  8 ounces  of  allum,  and  half  an  ounce  of 
pearlash ; u hen  the  liquor  has  cooled  so  you  can  just  en- 
dure  the  hand  m it,  dip  die  j am  and  turn  it  continually 
for  about  half  an  hour ; it  is  tlien  to  be  m rung  and  shook 
out ; tlien  sink  the  yarn  entirely  under  the  liquor  and 
let  it  remain  o^'er  night.  The  next  morning  wring  it 
out,  and  throw  au  ay  the  allum  liquor. 


Dyemg. 

1.  Prepare  a brass  or  copper  kettle  with  about  three 
pails  of  water,  and  add  to  it  2 pounds  of  fustic  chips 
cut  up  fine,  which  is  to  be  boiled  tu  o hours. 

2.  The  chips  are  now  to  be  taken  out,  and  the  li- 
quor suft'ered  to  cool  so  as  to  admit  tlie  hand  in  it 
witliout  scalding ; then  put  in  the  j^am  on  the  sticks 
and  turn  it  continually  for  half  an  hour  : it  is  then  to  be 
taken  out,  w rung  and  put  on  the  sticks  to  air. 

3.  You  m.ust  then  clissolve  one  ounce  and  a half  of 
blue  vitriol,  a little  before  hand  in  some  of  the  warm 
dye  ; then  add  it  to  the  dye  liquor  : the  j^arn  is  then  to 
be  dipped  and  turned  in  it  for  about  ten  minutes,  then 
wring  and  dry  it  in  the  shade, 

N.  B.  Instead  of  using  fustic  you  may  make  a strong 
dye  liquor  either  from  j^ellow^  oak  bark,  hickorj"  bark, 
peach  leaves,  or  arsemart;  but  should  j^ou  use  either  of 
the  barks,  the  outside  of  it  should  be  shaved  off.  Af- 
ter steeping  and  boiling  either  of  the  above,  the  liquor 
must  either  be  strained  or  poured  oft’  clear.  Should 
j^ou  use  peach  leaves  orarsemart,  it  will  require  as  much 
as  can  be  crowded  under  the  water  in  the  kettle. 


124 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 
DIRECTION  V. 


Yellow  on  Cotton. 

To  dye  2 pounds  of  yam  it  vi  ill  require, 

8 ounces  of  allum, 

I an  ounce  of  pearlash, 

1 pound  of  yellow  oak  bark, 

1 ounce  of  blue  viti'iol. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of  pounds. 

1.  Boil  out  the  3 am  as  usual,  then  rinse  it  clean  and 
UTing  it  hard  a short  time  before  you  dip  it. 

2.  Pre])are  a brass  or  copper  kettle  with  a pail  full 
of  u ater,  heat  it  scalding  hot,  dien  dissolve  in  it  8 oun- 
ces of  allum,  and  half  an  ounce  of  pearlash.  When 
the  liquor  has  cooled  a little  so  that  you  can  turn  the 
yarn  witliout  scalding  }'our  hand,  tlien  place  the  yam 
on  two  sticks  and  dip  and  turn  it  in  the  liquor  for  half 
an  hour : it  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  uTung,  shook  out, 
and  sunk  under  the  liquor  to  remain  over  night.  The 
next  morning  wring  it  out  and  neiwly  dry  it.  The  al- 
lum liquor  }^ou  have  used  is  then  to  be  emptied  av  a3^ 

3.  In  the  next  place  prepare  the  brass  or  copper  ket- 

tle w'ith  about  3 pails  full  of  clean  wwter,  and  add  to  it 
either  one  pound  of  }’’ellow  oak  bark  w hen  it  is  in  a 
green  state,  or  half  a pound  of  it  w hen  it  is  diy.  In 
either  case  observe  to  use  onl}^  the  middle  and  inside 
coat  of  the  bark.  Should  you  use  it  diy,  cut  it  up  fine 
or  grind  it,  and  then  put  it  loosely  into  a clean  open  wwe 
bag.  I 

Whether  it  is  dr}'  or  green,  \'ou  must  put  it  into  the 
W'ater  when  it  is  cold  ; raise  the  heat  b}^  a gentle  fire, ! 
and  when  the  liquor  is  blood  Avarm  .put  in  the}'am 
having  the  sticks  rest  on  the  top  of  the  kettle 
turn  it  for  one  hour  and  a half,  during  which  time  the 
V ater  should  not  become  w armer  than  the  hand  can 
bear  witliout  scalding.  You  wall  at  last  increase  the 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT.  12b 

fire  and  bring  the  liquor  to  a scalding  heat  for  a few 
minutes,  tlien  allow  it  to  boil  gently  for  2 or  3 minutes. 
It  is  dien  to  be  taken  out,  cooled,  ^n'ung  and  dried. 


DIRECTION  VI. 

Black  on  Cotton. 

To  dye  5 poimds  of  yam,  it  will  requhe 
2|  pounds  of  logwood, 

1|  pounds  of  sumac, 

I peck  of  stone  lime, 

1 pound  8 ounces  copperas, 

12  ounces  of  fustic,  and 
4 ounces  hog’s  lard. 

Use  tlie  same  pro}x>rtions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

The  yam  is  to  be  boiled  out  a day  before  hand  but 
not  rinsed.  If  you  want  an  excellent  black,  dye  tlie 
yarn  pale  blue  first  in  the  indigo  dye. 

1.  A day  before  you  color  black,  prepare  a half  bar- 
rel tub,  into  which  you  will  put  half  a peck  of  stone 
lime  ; slack  it  with  water  to  a powder,  then  fill  it  up 
with  water  and  stir  it  two  or  three  times  during  the  day, 
and  the  next  morning  it  will  be  settled  clear,  and  ready 
for  use. 

2.  Dissolve  in  a small  kettle  one  pound  and  a half  of 
copperas,  with  6 quarts  of  warm  water,  stir  it  to  make 
it  dissolve  faster,  and  \vhen  you  use  it  mix  it  together 
and  skim  it. 

3.  In  tlie  next  place  prepar<=‘  an  iron  whh  about 
13  gallons  or  5 pails  fuli  of  v/ater,  a^  d add  to  it  two 
pounds  and  a half  of  logv.  ood  chips,  and  one  pound 
and  a half  of  the  shoots  and  leaves  of  sumac,  which 
must  be  dried  and  cut  up  or  ground,  then  boiled  for  2 
hours. 

N 


X26 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


4.  You  must  now  prepare  3 tubs  or  kettles,  one  to  be 
used  for  the  logwood  and  sumac  liquor,  one  for  copper- 
as liquor  and  one  for  lime  water.  Put  into  the  first  tub 
or  kettle  8 gallons  of  clear  logwood  liquor ; in  the  se- 
cond about  7 gallons  of  scalding  hot  water  and  1 gal- 
lon of  the  prepared  copperas  liquor,  ajid  in  the  third 
tub  or  kettle  8 gallons  . of  clear  cold  lime  water,  of 
which  you  must  be  careful  to  use  only  the  clear  part, 
and  not  disturb  the  sediment. 


1.  Place  the  yam  on  five  sticks  having  a pound  on  a 
stick,  then  dip  it  in  the  first  tub  or  kettle,  containing 
the  logwood  liquor  which  you  prepared  first,  the  liquor 
being  as  warm  as  the  hand  can  be  borne  in  it ; then 
turn  the  yam  one  pound  at  a time  for  about  half  an 
hour  : it  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  wrung  and  aired. 

2.  In  the  next  place  dip  it  in  the  second  tub  or  ket- 
tle, containing  the  copperas  liqour,  in  the  same  manner 
as  before,  for  about  15  minutes,  then  wring  and  air  it. 

3.  Now  dip  and  turn  it  in  the  lime  water  for  about 
five  minutes,  it  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  rinsed  and 
wrung. 

4.  You  must  now  throw  away  half  of  the  logwood 
liquor  which  you  have  dipped  in,  and  then  put  in  the 
remainder  of  the  fresh  logwood  and  sumac  liquor,  ta- 
king only  the -clear  part  of  it.  This  liquor’ should  be 
nearly  boiling,  so  that  by  adding  it  to  tl^e  other  it  .will 
make  tlie  whole  of  a suitable  warmtli. 

5.  Now  add  to  the  copperas  iiquor  the  remainder  of 
the  copperas  water.,  being  two  quarts  that  was  left. 

'6.  The  lime  water  which  you  have  dipped  in  must 
be  emptied  entirely  away  ; then  put  in  8 gallons  of  the 
clear  lime  water,  as  before. 

7.  Now  dip  and  turn  the  yarn  in  the  logwood  liquor 
for  half  an  hour ; then  wring  and  air  it 


MANUFACTUHER-S  ASSISTANT.  127 

8.  Next  in  the  copperas  liquor  for  about  15  minutes, 
then  wring  and  air  it. 

9.  Next  in  the  lime  water  for  5 minutes  then  rinse 
and  air  it. 

10.  You  will  now  prepare  a kettle  and  put  in  about 
8 gallons  of  water,  and  add  to  it  12  ounces  of  fustic 
chips,  boil  it  for  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  then 
pom  or  strain  off  the  liquor,  and  when  very  hot  add  to 
it  4 ounces  of  hog’s  lard ; mix  it  well  together  and  dip 
the  black  yam  for  10  minutes  : it  is  then  to  be  uTung 
and  and  dried  without  rinsing.  Should  your  yam  not 
be  dyed  pale  blue  first,  you  must  dip  it  3 different  times 
through  tlie  logwood,  copperas  and  lime-'water,  instead 
of  twice,  as  has  been  directed. 

N.  B.  Garments  of  calico,  muslin,  cotton  stockings, 
shawls,  &CC.  can  be  dyed  by  following  the  above  direc- 
tions ; observing  not  to  have  more  articles  than  the  li- 
quor of  each  kind  will  cover : they  must  be  stirred 
about  in  the  dye  for  the  same  period  of  time  as  has 
been  mentioned  for  yam. 

. These  kind  of  cotton  articles  can  also  be  dyed  of 
any  other  color  which  shall  be  mentioned  in  the  course 
of  dyeing  cotton  yam. 


DIRECTION  VII. 

Another  Black  on  Cotton. 

For  one  pound  of  yam  it  will  require 
8 ounces  of  sumac, 

6 ounces  of  copperas, 

\ an  ounce  of  blue  vitriol, 

8 ounces  of  logwood, 

2 ounces  of  fustic. 

Use  the  same  proportions  for  any  number  of  pounds. 


128 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


1.  Prepare  and  boil  out  the  yarn  a day  before  hand,  | 
as  directed  in  the  first  remarks  on  boiling  yam.  It  is  I 
then  to  be  wrung’  and  shaken  out;  which  must  be  done  ; 
only  a short  time  before  you  begin  to  dip  the  yam  : it  ; 
is  then  to  be  dyed  a pale  blue  in  the  indigo  dye  and  I 
then  rinsed. 

2.  Prepare  a kettle  with  about  3 gallons  of  water, 
and  add  to  it  8 ounces  of  dry  sumac  shoots  and  leaves 
which  are  dry  and  cut  up  fine  ; boil  it  one  hour,  adding 
a little  water  as  the  rest  boils  away : then  sti'ain  off  the 
liquor  into  another  kettle.  When  the  liquor  has  cooled 
so  as  to  admit  the  hand  ^\dthout  scalding,  then  dip  and 
turn  the  yam  in  it  for  about  half  an  hour ; tlie  yam  is 
then  to  be  sunk  under  the  liquor  to  remain  over  night. 
The  next  morning  take  it  out  and  tvring  it. 

2.  In  the  next  place  prepare  a kettle  with  about  5 
quarts  of  warm  water,  dissolve  in  it  5 ounces  of  cop- 
peras ; stir  it  together,  then  dip  and  turn  your  yarn  on  a 
stick  for  about  one  hour  ; it  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and 
Avrung;  then  add  to  the  copperas  liquor  one  ounce 
more  of  copperas,  and  half  an  ounce  of  blue  vitriol, 
dissolved  in  a little  hot  Avater  before  it  is  added  to  the 
copperas  liquor,  then  dip  and  turn  the  yai'n  for  about  | 
half  an  hour : it  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  rinsed  and  ; 
AATUng. 

4.  Prepare  a kettle  Avith  about  4 gallons  of  Avater, 
and  add  to  it  8 ounces  of  logAA^ood  chips,  and  2 ounces 
of  fustic  chips,  cut  fine,  Avhich  are  to  be  put  in  a thin  I 
coarse  bag  and  boiled  about  one  hour  and  a half ; then  | 
take  out  the  bag,  and  Avhen  the  Ii(|uor  has  cooled  a little,  ' 
so  that  you  can  just  endure  the  hand  in,  dip  and  turn 
the  yam  in  it  one  hour.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out  t^d 
aired ; then  rinsed,  wrung  and  dried. 

N.  B.  While  speaking  of  Irlack  on  cotton  it  will  not 
be  improper  to  remark  that  an  improvement  has  been  '• 
made  in  dyeing  black  on  linen  thread,  Avhich  is  by  put-  ^ 
ting  a little  talioAv  or  other  fresh  grease  in  the  hot  dye,  , 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


129 


a little  before  the  yam  is  finished,  which  not  only  ren- 
ders the  yarn  or  thread  soft,  but  preserves  its  strength. 
As  the  dyeing  of  black  on  linen  is  so  simple  and  well 
known,  we  do  not  insert  the  manner  of  dyeing  it.  The 
main  point  in  dyeing  a good  black  on  linen,  is  to  have 
the  logwood  dye  very  strong,  and  plenty  of  copperas 
added  after  all  the  strength  is  boiled  out  of  the  log- 
wood then  dip  the  tliread. 


DIRECTION  VIII. 

To  Dye  Green  on  Cotton. 

For  2 pounds  of  yam  it  will  require 

2 pounds  12  ounces  of  fustic, 

6 ounces  of  logwood, 

1 ounce  and  a half  of  blue  vitriol. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

The  yam  is  to  be  boiled  out  a day  before  hand,  then 
dyed  a handsome  light  pale  blue,  and  rinsed  well. 

1.  Fill  a kettle  with  about  8 gallons  of  water,  add 
to  it  2 pounds  and  12  ounces  of  fustic  chips,  boil  it  a- 
bout  1 hour  and  a half,  adding  as  much  water  as  what 
boils  an  ay. 

2.  Boil  in  another  kettle  with  one  gallon  of  water,  6 
ounces  of  logwood  chips  for  one  hour,  adding  as  much 
water  as  what  boils  away  ; and  when  }'OU  use  it  take 
the  clear  part  only. 


1.  Prepare  a kettle  with  about  3 gallons  of  tlie  clear 
fustic  liquor,  which  must  be  as  warm  as  the  hand 
will  bear.  After  the  yam  is  wrung  and  equall}' 

moist,  place  it  on  two  sticks  and  dip  it  in  the  dye,  rest- 

N 2 


1 


150  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

ing  the  sticks  on  the  top  of  the  tub  or  kettle  ; turn  the 
yarn  continually  for  about  half  an  hour,  then  take  it  out, 
wring  and  air  it,  and  throw  away  the  liquor. 

2.  In  the  next  place  put  in  the  same  kettle,  two  and 

a half  gallons  of  fresh  fustic  liquor  which  is  clear,  | 
and  also  about  3 quarts  of  clear  logwood  liquor,  as  | 
warm  as  before  mentioned;  then  dip  and  turn  the  yam 
as  before  for  about  half  an  hour ; it  is  then  to  be  taken 
out,  wrung  and  aired,  and  the  liquor  emptied  away. 

3.  Now  put  in  the  kettle  the  remainder  of  the  warm 
and  clear  fustic  liquor,  then  add  to  it  one  ounce  and  a 
half  of  blue  vitriol,  dissolved  in  a little  warm  wa- 
ter before  you  put  it  in  the  dye : then  dip  and  turn  the 
yam  as  before  for  about  half  an  hour : it  is  then  to  be 
taken  out  and  \vmng,  but  not  rinsed  ; then  dried  in  the 
shade. 

Should  the  color  incline  too  much  on  the  blue  shade, 
use  rather  less  of  the  logwood  liquor,  and  if  it  bears  too 
much  on  the  yellow  take  a little  less  blue  vitriol,  and 
more  of  the  logwood  dye. 

N.  B.  Instead  of  using  fustic  you  may  take  yellow 
oak  bark  or  walnut  bark.  See  Direction  IV. 


DIRECTION  IX. 

To  Dye  Red  on  CottoUi 

For  2 pounds  of  yam  it  will  require 

1 poimd  4 ounces  of  sumac, 

8 ounces  of  allum, 

I of  an  ounce  of  pearlash, 

I of  an  ounce  of  sugar  of  lead, 

3 pounds  of  nicaragua  and  ■? 

1 table  spoonful  of  compound  of  aqua-  *. 
fortis. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


13?.' 

The  yam  is  to  be  boiled  out  a day  before  hand,  then 
rinsed  and  wrung. 

1.  Prepare  a brass  or  copper  kettle  with  about  3 gal- 
lons of  water,  then  add  to  it  1 pound  and  4 ounces  of 
sumac,  the  shoots  and  leaves  being  dryed  and  cut  up 
fine.  Boil  it  for  half  an  hour,  then  strain  off  the  liquor 
into  a brass,  tin  or  copper  kettle  ; then  tlirow  out  the 
sumac,  and  put  the  liquor  back  again. 

2.  Place  your  yam  on  two  sticks,  being  previously 
shook  out,  and  when  the  liquor  has  cooled  so  thal 
you  can  just  endure  the  hand  in  it,  dip  and  turn 
the  yam  for  half  an  hour ; it  is  then  to  be  wrung  out 
and  put  in  again,  sinking  it  enthely  under  the  liquor, 
and  let  it  remain  over  night.  Next  morning  it  is^to  be 
taken  out  wmng  and  dried  in  the  shade. 

3.  In  the  next  place,  prepare  a brass,  tin,  or  copper 
kettle  Avith  about  3 gallpns  of  hot  water,  then  dissolve 
in  it  8 ounces  of  allum,  three  quarters  of  an  ounce  of 
pearlash,  and  three  quarters  of  an  ounce  of  sugar  of 
lead.  When  it  is  entirely  dissolved  and  the  liquor 
cooled  so  that  you  can  bear  the  hand  in  it,  enter  your 
yam  on  the  sticks,  and  turn  it  for  about  half  an  hour : 
it  is  then  to  be  sunk  entirely  under  the  liquor,  to  remain: 
over  night.  The  next  morning  take  it  out,  rince  light- 
ly and  wring  it. 


Dyeing. 

1.  Prepare  a brass  or  copper  kettle  with  about  10  gal- 
lons of  water,  add  to  it  3 pounds  of  nicaragua  chips. 
Boil  for  about  one  hour  and  a half,  then  let  the  chips 
settle  at  the  bottom — about  two  and  a half  gallons  of 
the  clear  liquor  is  now  to  be  taken  out  and  put  in  anoth- 
er clean  brass  or  copper  kettle. 

2.  Now  place  your  yam  on  the  sticks,  and  when  the 
dye  is  Avarm  as  you  can  endure  the  hand  in  it,  then 


132 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


dip  and  turn  the  yarn  in  it  for  about  half  an  hour ; it  is 
then  to  be  taken  out  and  wrung,  and  the  liquor  emptied  i 
awayi 

3.  About  two  and  a half  gallons  more  of  the  fresh  j 
and  clear  dye  liquor  is  now  to  be  put  in  the  kettle,  be-  ' 
ing  as  warm  as  before  directed ; then  dip  and  turn  the  I 
yam  in  it  for  about  half  an  hour,  then  wring  it  out. 

4.  You  must  now  empty  half  of  the  liquor  away 
which  has  just  been  used,  then  put  in  some  fresh  scald- 
ing hot  dye  liquor,  to  make  as  much  of  the  whole  as 
you  had  before,  and  of  the  same  warmth  at  the  time  of 
dipping.  The  yam  is  now  to  be  dipped  and  turned 
again  as  before,  for  about  half  an  hour ; it  is  then  to  be 
taken  out  and  wrung. 

The  yam  at  this  time  will  probably  be  of  a dark  red 
color,  but  if  not,  empty  out  half  of  the  liquor  and  fill 
up  witli  clear  hot  dye  liquor  as  before  ; then  dip  again, 
wring,  and  empty  away  the  liquor. 

5.  The  kettle  is  now  to  be  rinsed,  then  put  in  about 
3 gallons  of  clear  water,  which  is  not  to  be  made  warm ; 
then  add  to  it  a table  spoonful  of  the  compound  of 
aqua  fortis.  Wlien  you  have  mixed  the  compound 
^vell  wdth  the  water,  one  of  the  colored  skeins  is  to  be 
dipped  in  it  for  3 or  4 minutes ; should  it  produce  a 
bright  red  color,  you  may  put  in  all  your  yarn  for  about 
10  minutes,  then  wring  it  out.  Should  the  skein  which 
you  tried  not  have  changed  its  appearance,  in  that  case 
you  will  add  a trifle  more  of  tlie  compound  until  the 
color  is  effected  to  your  wishes. 

6.  Now  put  in  your  tub  or  kettle,  about  2|  gallons 
of  nicaragua  liquor  as  warm  as  has  been  before  direc- 
ted, then  dip  and  turn  the  yam  in  it  for  about  half 
an  hour.  It  is  then  to  be  wrung  and  dried  without  rin- 
sing. 

Method  of  making  the  Compound  of  Aqua- Fortis. 

Take  a junk  or  glass  bottle  and  put  in  it  4 ounces  of 
aqua-fortis  and  as  much  rain  or  soft  river  w'ater — w'hen 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


ISS 


you  have  mixed  it  together  add  to  it  | of  an  ounce  of 
salamoniac,  pounded  fine,  then  mix  it  well  together : af- 
ter \\iiich,  is  also  to  be  added,  § an  ounce  of  grained 
tin,  which  is  conducted  in  the  following  manner. 

First  melt  the  block  tin  over  a fire,  then  pour  it  a dis- 
tance from  above,  of  about  4 or  5 feet,  gradually  into 
a bason  of  cold  water  ; by  tliis  means  you  will  find  the 
tin  formed  into  light  and  fine  pieces,  and  is  then  ready 
for  dissolving  in  the  aqua-fortis.  You  will  then  put  one 
piece  into  the  bottle  at  a time,  letting  one  piece  dissolve 
before  another  is  added.  When  it  is  all  dissolved,  let 
it  stand  for  a day  or  two.  After  that  space  of  time  the 
liquor  will  be  clear,  of  an  amber  color,  and  fit  for  use. 
Keep  the  bottle  well  stopped,  v ith  a wax  or  glass  stop- 
per, and  it  will  keep  good  several  months.  When  you 
use  it,  take  the  clear  part  only. 


DIRECTION  X. 

Orange  color  on  Cotton. 

To  dye  5 jxiunds  of  yam  it  will  require 
4 ounces  of  Anatto  or  Otter,  and 
8 ounces  of  Pearlash. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of  pounds. 

The  yam  is  to  be  boiled  out  before  hand  as  usual, 
ancl  wTung,  but  not  not  rinsed. 

*1.  Prepare  a brass  or  copper  kettle  with  about  eight 
gallons  of  clean  water,  then  add  to  it  eight  ounces  of 
anatto  which  must  be  cut  up  fine,  and  eight  ounces  of 
pearlash ; boil  it  for  one  hour,  then  put  the  liquor  into 
a clean  tub  or  kettle  to  settle  a few^  hours  or  until  you 
w ant  it  for  use. 

2.  Take  about  6 gallons  of  the  clear  anatto  liquor, 
put  it  in  a brass  kettle  and  heat  it  scalding  hot  by  keep- 
mg  it  at  the  side  of  a fire,  then  place  your  yam  on  five 


134 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


sticks,  and  dip  and  turn  it  for  twenty  minutes;  it  is  then  ll 
to  be  taken  out  and  wrung.  j 

3.  In  the  next  place  add  about  half  a gallon  of  fresh  i 
clear  anatto  liquor  to  the  rest  in  the  kettle,  keeping  the  il 
dye  nearly  scaldmg  hot;  then  dip  and  turn  the  yam  for  \ 
about  twenty  minutes ; it  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and 
wrung,  then  rinced,  wrung,  and  dried  in  the  shade. 

N.  B.  In  dyeing  orange,  TOCO  is  often  used  instead 
of  anatto  as  it  comes  ^ a much  less  price.  If  you 
choose  to  make  use  of  roco,  you  must  take  about 
double  the  quantity,  that  is,  for  five  pounds  of  yam  it 
will  require  eight  ounces  of  roco,,  and  ten  ounces  of’ 
psarlash. 


DIRECTION  XI. 

To  Dye  Madder  Red  on  Cotton, 

For  2 pounds  of  yarn  it  will  require 

1  pound  4 ounces  of  sumac, 

8 ounces  of  pearlash, 

3 ounces  of  stone  lime, 

8 ounces  of  allum^ 

1 of  an  ounce  of  salamoniac, 

2 ounces  of  hog’s  lard, 

2 noimds  of  madder, 

2 ounces  of  chalk, 

1 pound  8 ounces  of  wheat  bran,  , 

3 ounces  of  hard  soap. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

The  yam  is  to  be  boiled  out  before  hand,  then  rinsed 
and  wrung. 

First  prepare  a brass  or  copper  kettle  with  3 gallons 
of  clean  water,  then  add  to  it  one  pound  four  ounces  of 
dried  sumac,  (the  shoots  and  leaves  being  cut  up  fine 
together,)  boil  it  for  about  half  an  hour,  and  strain  off 
the  clear  part  into  a clean  tub  or  brass  kettle.  When 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


43® 


the  liquor  has  cooled  so  you  can  bear  the  hand  in  it, 
place  the  yam  upon  two  sticks,  snd  dip  and  turn  it  for 
about  half  an  hour ; the  yam  is  then  to  be  sunk  under 
the  liquor,  to  remain  over  night:  next  morning  it  is  to 
be  taken  out,  uTung,  and  dryed  in  the  shade. 

2.  In  the  next  place  prepare  a kettle  with  about  one 
gallon  and  a half  of  hot  Avater,  then  dissolve  in  it  eight 
ounces  of  pearlash,  and  add  three  ounces  of  slacked 
lime;  stir  it  well  together  and  let  it  settle  for  two  hours. 

3.  Now  place  a kettle  over  a lire  with  about  one  gal- 
lon of  Avater ; when  it  has  amved  at  a scalding  beat, 
add  8 ounces  of  allum,  and  the  clear  part  of  the  lime 
and  pearlash  liquor — also  add  to  it  | of  an  ounce  of 
salamoniac,  (which  is  pounded  and  dissolved  in  a little 
hot  Avater  before  hand)  then  mix  them  all  together,  and 
while  the  liquor  is  still  quite  hot,  then  also  add  2 oun- 
ces of  lard,  and  mix  the  whole  well  together. 

4.  The  yam  is  then  to  be  placed  on  the  sticks,  and 
when  the  liquor  has  cooled  so  the  hand  can  be  borne  in 
it,  then  dip  and  turn  the  yam  about  half  an  hour ; it  is 
then  to  be  taken  out,  Avrung,  and  dried  in  the  shade, 
then  rinsed  well  and  again  dried. 

5.  Heat  the  same  liquor  again,  and  dip  and  turn  the 
yarn  for  about  half  an  hour ; it  is  then  to  be  Avrung  and 
dried  in  the  shade,  then  rinsed,  Avrung,  shook  out,  and 
put  on  the  stacks. 


Dyeing. 


1.  Prepare  a brass  or  copper  “kettle  AA'ith  about  ten 
gallons  of  clean  soft  aa  ater,  then  add  to  it,  Avhen  the  wa- 
ter is  cold,  tAA  O pounds  of  madder  broken  up  fine,  and 
tAVo  ounces  of  pounded  chalk.  In  dyeing  on  this  small 
scale,  it  Avill  be  found  necessary  to  place  the  kettle  at 
tlAe  side  of  a fire,  to  alloAv  you  to  turn  the  yam  on  the 
sticks. 


1S6 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


2.  You  will  now  place  the  yam  on  die  sticks,  and 

Ai'hen  the  madder  liquor  is  of  a blood  warmth,  put  in 
the  yam  and  turn  it  constantly,  having  the  heat  of  the  ; 
dye  increase  moderately  by  keeping  only  a gentle  fire,  'j 
When  the  dye  has  become  so  warm  as  you  can  just 
endure  the  hand  in  it,  then  allow  it  to  get  no  hotter  for  ! 
two  hours,  turning  the  yam  during  that  time.  You  ' 
will  then  increase  the  heat  to  a scald  for  five  mmutes,  c 
having  a jiail  of  cold  water  standing  by  to  dip  your  . 
hands  in  often,  u hile  turning  the  yarn  ; it  is  then  to  be  , 
taken  out,  cooled,  and  rinsed.  i 

3.  Now  rinse  the  kettle,  put  in  about  ten  gallons  of: 
w ater,  and  add  to  it  two  quarts  of  wheat  bran  m a clean  ; : 
bag,  and  t\\  o ounces  of  hard  soap  cut  up  in  tliin  pieces. : 
Bring  the  liquor  to  a boil,  then  put  in  the  yam  and  let: 
it  boil  for  half  an  hour ; it  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  cool- ' 
ed,  and  rinsed,  then  wrung,  and  dried  in  the  shade. 


DIRECTION  XII. 

MojMer  Red  on  Cotton,  as  practiced  in  France. 

To  dye  one  pound  of  yam  it  will  require  | 

10  ounces  of  sumac, 

4 ounces  of  allum, 

1 pound  of  madder, 

2 ounces  of  pearlash, 

1 ounce  of  lime  and, 

12  ounces  of  w’heat  bran. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of  pounds. 

1.  Prepare  and  boil  out  your  yam  the  day  before^ 
you  color,  and  in  the  same  manner,  as  you  will  find  | 
stated  in  the  first  remarks.  It  is  afterw  ards  to  be  rin- , 
sed,  wning,  and  shaken  out,  a short  time  before  you  ^ 
beo-in  to  dip  the  yam. 

2.  In  the  next  jilace  prepare  a brass  or  copper  kettle 
witJi  about  two  and  a half  gallons  of  w ater ; then  add 


! MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT.  isr 

tcKit,  10  ounces  of  sumac  leaves  and  shoots,  which 
! should  be  cut  in  the  month  of  August  or  September, 
II  and  then  dryed  and  cut  up  line  before  used.  Boil  it 
' for  about  half  an  hour,  then  strain  the  clear  liquor  off, 

! throw  a^vay  the  sumac  and  put  ihe  liquor  back  again, 
j 3.  When  the  liquor  has  cooled,  to  a little  less  than  a 
' scalding  heat ; then  place  the  yarn  on  a stick  and  dip 
and  turn  it  about  half  an  hour;  then  sink  it  entirely  un- 
der die  liquor,  and  let  it  remain  over  night.  Next  mor- 
ning nTing  it  out  moderately,  and  dry  it;  then  emp- 
j ty  away  die  liquor. 

4.  Prepare  the  kettle  widi  about  5 quarts  of  hot  wa- 
ter and  dissolve  in  it  4 ounces  of  allura ; then  dip  and 
turn  the  yam  as  before,  for  about  half  an  hour;  then 
sink  it  entirely  mider  the  liquor  and  let  it  remain  over 
night.  Nejit  morning  n ring  it  moderately  and  dry  it. 


Dyeing. 

1.  Prepare  a brass  or  copper  kettle,  with  about  five 
■or  six  gallons  of  u ater  ; dien  add  to  it  8 oimces  of 
good  madder,  broken  up  fine.  When  the  liquor  has 
become  a little  more  than  blood  warm,  place  the  yam 
on  a stick,  then  turn  it  continually  for  one  hour,  keeping 
the  liquor  the  whole  time  no  warmer  than  you  can  bear 
the  hand  in  it.  The  last  part  of  the  time,  allow  it  to  be 
towards  scalding  hot ; the  yam  is  then  to  be  taken  out, 
WTungand  aired-. 

2.  In  the  next  place,  dissolve  2 ounces  of  pearlash 
in  a pint  of  water,  and  add  to  it  half  a pint  of  clear 
lime  water,  made  from  about  an  ounce  of  slacked  stone 
lime,  which  is  to  be  mixed  before  hand  in  cold  water, 
and  then  left  to  settle  clear.  Now  put  the  above  mix- 
ture of  pearlash  and  clear  lime  vrater  into  the  madder 
dye  and  stir  it  well  togetlier.  When  the  madder  dye  is 
at  a little  less  tlian  a scalding  heat,  enter  the  yam  by 
sinking  it  entirely  under  the  liquor,  and  bring  it  to  boil 
for  5 minutes  ; it  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  cooled ; 
then  rinsed  and  t\Timg. 


o 


138 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


3.  The  madder  dye  is  now  to  be  emptied  away  ; 
then  put  in  about  5 gallons  of  water,  and  add  8 oun- 
ces more  of  madder,  broken  up  fine.  You  will  then 
proceed  in  the  same  manner  and  time  as  before ; but 
without  adding  any  pearlash  or  lime  water,-observing  to 
keep  the  dye  something  less  than  a scalding  heat,  for  1 
hour,  turning  the  yam  continually  during  that  time.  It 
is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  wnmg,  then  tlirow  away  the 
dye. 

4.  To  brighten  the  color,  prepare  the  kettle  with  a- 
bout  5 gallons  of  water  and  put  into  it  12  ounces  of 
wheat  bran  (preAUously  put  into  a clean  bag)  and  one 
oimce  of  hard  soap  cut  up  fine  and  dissolved.  Bring 
the  water  to  a boil,  then  enter  tlie  yarn  and  boil  it  for 
half  an  hour.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  cooled  and 
rinsed ; then  wrung  and  dried  in  the  shade. 


DIRECTION  XIII. 

To  Di/e  Purple  on  Cotton. 

For  2 pounds  of  yam,  it  will  require 

1 pound  4 ovmces  of  sumac, 

1 pound  4 ounces  of  logwood, 

1 ounce  of  alliim, 

I of  an  ounce  of  verdigris. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

1.  Boil  out  the  yam  the  day  before  hand  as  usual, 
and  after  the  same  method,  as  you  will  find  directed  in 
the  first  remarks.  Afterwards  it  is  to  be  u mng,  shook 
out  and  put  on  sticks,  a short  time  before  you  dip  the 
yam. 

2.  In  the  next  place  pi  epare  an  iron,  brass  or  copper 
kettle,  with  about  4 gallons  of  w ater  ; then  add  to  it  1 
pound  4 ounces  of  sumac  shoots  and  leaves  cut  upline ; 
which  is  to  boil  for  about  half  an  hour.;  tlien  sti*ain  off' 


MANUFACTURER'S  ASSISTANT. 


139 


the  liquor,  throw  away  tlie  sumac  and  put  the  liquor 
back  a^aiii. 

3.  When  tlie  liquor  has  cooled  to  a little  less  than  a 
. scalding  heat,  dip  your  yam  and  turn  it  on  the  sticks 
I for  about  half  an  hour ; then  sink  it  enthely  under  the 

liquor  and  let  it  remain  over  night.  Next  morning  it  is 
to  be  taken  out  and  wrung,  then  empty  away  the  liquor. 

4.  Now  prepare  a kettle  with  about  7 gallons  of  wa- 

t ter  ; then  add  to  it  1 pound  and  4 ounces  of  log^\  ood 
i chips,  which  is  to  be  boiled  for  about  one  hour  : then 
let  it  stop  boiling,  and  allow  tlie  chips  to  settle’  at  tlie 
bottom. 

5.  Three  gallons  of  the  clear  logwood  liquor  is  now 
to  be  put  into  another  kettle,  and  n hen  the  liquor  has 

! cooled  so  as  to  admit  the  hand  without  scalding,  place 
the  yam  on  two  sticks  and  dip  and  turn  it  for  about  £0 
minutes  : it  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  wrung  and  aired, 
j 6.  Take  about  a pint  of  hot  water  and  dissolve  in  it 
tivo  thirds  of  the  alluni  mentioned  at  first ; also  one 
' quarter  of  an  ounce  of  pounded  verdigris.  When  it  is 
entirely  dissolved,  pour  it  into  the  logwood  liquor,  which 
, you  dipped  in  last ; then  mix  it  together  and  dip  and 
; turn  the  yam  again  as  before,  for  about  20  minutes ; it 
is  then  to  be  taken  out  wTung  and  awed. 

7.  Now  add  2 or  3 quarts  of  very  hot  logwood  li- 
j quor,  taken  out  clear  from  the  other  kettle ; then  dip 
! and  turn  the  yam  again  for  20  minutes  ; then  wring  it 
j out  and  empty  aw^ay  the  liquor. 

8.  Put  into  your  kettle  the  remainder  of  the  logwood 
j liquor,  which  must  be  as  warm  as  the  hand  can  bear, 

while  dipping  the  yam  : in  this  liquor  dissolve  the  re- 
mainder of  the  allum,  being  one  third  of  an  ounce ; 
then  dip  and  turn  the  yam  as  before  for  about  20  min- 
utes ; it  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  wrung  and  dried. 


140  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

DIRECTION  XIV. 

Drab  Color  on  Cotton. 

To  dye  5 pounds  of  yam,  it  will  require 
10  ounces  of  allum, 

10  ounces  of  copperas, 

10  ounces  of  fustic, 

10  ounces  of  sumac. 

Use  tlie  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

1.  Boil  out  the  yam  a day  before  you  wish  to  color, 
and  in  the  same  manner  as  pointed  out  in  the  remarks 
on  preparing  and  boiling  : it  is  to  be  rinsed  and  wrung 
a short  tim.e  before  you  dip  it. 

2.  Prepare  an  iron,  brass  or  copper  kettle,  with  about 
6 gallons  of  water  ; bring  it  nearly  to  a scalding  heat ; 
then  dissolve  10  ounces  of  allum  and  10  ounces  of  cop- 
peras, ill  about  1 gallon  and  a half  of  hot  water,  and 
add  it  to  the  water  in  the  kettle,  and  mix  it  well. 

3.  Place  your  yarn  on  5 sticks,  and  when  the  liquor 
is  as  warm  as  you  bear  the  hand  in  it,  dip  and  timi  the 
yam  for  about  half  an  hour  : it  is  then  to  be  taken  out 
and  wrung. 

4.  The  liquor  which  you  have  used  is  now  to  be  emp- 
tied away  ; then  prepare  the  kettle  with  about  8 gallons 
of  water,  add  to  it  10  ounces  of  fustic  chips,  and  ten 
Ounces  of  sumac  shoots  and  leaves,  whicli  are  to  be 
dryed  and  cut  up  fine.  Both  of  these  articles  are  to  be 
put  into  a thin  coarse  bag  and  boiled  for  about  three 
quarters  of  an  hour ; otherwise  you  can  boil  the  fustic 
and  sumac  without  putting  them  in  a bag,  but  in  that 
case  you  must  strain  the  liquor. 

5.  When  the  liquor  has  cooled,  so  that  you  can  just 
endure  the  hand  in  it,  then  dip  and  turn  the  yam  on 
the  sticks  for  half  an  hour.  It  is  then  to  be  u rung  o ut 
and  dried  without  rinsing. 

You  can  give  it  different  shades,  by  adding  more  or 


Mx\NUFACTURER’S  ASSISTAJ^T.  141 

less  fustic  and  sumac  : or  by  adding  a small  pioportion 
of  logwood  liquor. 

DIRECTION  XV. 

To  Dye  a Reddish  Brcavn  on  Cotton. 

For  5 pounds  of  yam  it  will  require 

2 pounds  8 ounces  of  fustic, 

1 pound  of  nicaragua, 

1 pound  of  logwood, 

8 ounces  of  copperas, 

I of  a gill  of  aqua  fortis  compound. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number 
pounds. 

1.  Boil  out  the  yam  the  day  before  you  wish  to  col- 
or, in  the  same  manner  as  directed  in  the  first  remarks 
on  boiling  yam  ; it  is  tlien  to  be  wrung  out  a short 
time  before  you  begin  to  dip  the  yam. 

2.  Prepare  an  iron,  brass  or  copper  kettle,  with  about 
8 gallons  of  "water:  then  add  to  it  2 pounds  8 ounces 
of  fustic  chips,  put  in  a thin  coarse  bag ; and  boiled 
for  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour.  You  can  boil  the 
fustic  loose  in  the  kettle  if  you  wish  ; but  in  tliat  case, 
the  liquor  must  be  strained  or  taken  oft  clear  before 
you  dip  the  yam  in  it. 

3.  In  the  next  place,  dissolve  eight  ounces  of  cop- 
peras in  about  one  gallon  of  warm  water,  and  add  it  to 
tlie  fustic  liquor : then  stir  it  well  together  and  sufter  the 
liquor  to  cool  a little,  so  that  you  can  just  endure  the 
hand  in  it  while  dipping. 

4.  Place  the  yam  on  5 sticks,  then  dip  and  turn  it 
for  about  half  an  hour.  It  is  then  to  be  wrung  out  and 
the  liquor  emptied  away. 

5.  Prepare  the  kettle  with  about  8 gallons  of  water, 
then  add  to  it  1 pound  of  nicaragua,  arid  1 pound  of 
logwood,  both  chipped  and  put  into  a thin  coarse  bag 
and  boiled  about  Aree  quarters  of  an  hour.  Now- 

o % 


142 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


take  the  bag  out,  and  add  to  the  liquor  a quarter  of  a 
gill  of  aqua  fortis  compound  : then  stir  the  w hole  well 
together,  and  suffer  the  liquor  to  cool  a little,  so  that 
the  hand  can  just  be  endured  in  it  while  dipping. 

6.  Dip  and  turn  the  yam  again  for  about  fifteen  min- 
utes : it  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  rinsed,  wrung  and 

dried. 


DIRECTION  XVI. 

To  Dye  Logwood  Blue  on  Cotton. 

For  5 poimds  of  yam  it  w ill  require 
6 ounces  of  blue  vitriol, 

2 pounds  8 ounces  of  logwood. 

Use  the  same  proportions  for  any  number  of  pounds. 

1.  Boil  out  the  yam  a day  previous  to  coloring,  and 
in  the  same  manner  as  pointed  out  in  the  remarks  on 
boiling  yam  ; after  w^hich  it  must  be  wrung,  a short 
time  before  you  dip  it. 

2.  Prepare  an  iron,  brass  or  copper  kettle  with  about 
eight  gallons  of  water,  bring  it  nearly  to  a scalding  heat, 
then  dissolve  in  it  six  ounces  of  blue  vitriol. 

3.  Place  the  yam  on  five  sticks,  then  dip  and  turn  it 
for  about  one  hour : it  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and 
WTung,  and  the  liquor  which  you  have  just  dipped  in  is 
to  be  emptied  away. 

4.  Prepare  the  kettle  wdth  about  8 gallons  of  w^ater,, 
and  add  to  it,  two  pounds  eight  ounces  of  logwood 
chips,  which  is  to  be  put  in  a tliin  coarse  bag  and  boil- 
ed for  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour  ; then  take  out 
the  bag  and  let  the  liquor  cool  so  that  the  hand  may  be 
borne  in  it ; then  dip  and  turn  the  yam  in  it  for  about 
half  an  hour.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  wrung. 

5.  In  the  next  place,  dissolve  in  the  liquor  you  have 
just  dipped  in,  2 ounces  of  pearlash;'  then  dip  and 
uim  the  yam  again  for  20  minutes,  It  is  then  to  be 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


143 


taken  out  and  wrung.  Should  you  ’wish  the  color 
darker,  add  one  ounce  of  blue  vitiiol  to  tlie  liquor ; and 
\Vhen  dissolved,  dip  again  for  10  minutes.  It  is  then 
to  be  wrung  and  dried  without  rinsing. 

DIRECTION  XVIL 

Olive  Color  on  Cotton. 

To  dye  2 pounds  of  yarn  it  will  require 
8 ounces  of  fustic, 

6 ounces  of  pearlash, 

2 ounces  of  logwood, 

I an  ounce  of  verdigris. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

1.  Boil  out  the  yam  a day  before  hand,  and  after  the 
same  manner  as  you  will  find  stated  in  the  remarks  on 
preparing  and  boiling  yam.  It  is  then  to  be  \ming  a 
short  time  before  you  commence  dipping. 

2.  Prepare  an  iron,  brass  or  copper  kettle,  with  about 
3 gallons  of  Avater,  add  to  it  eight  ounces  of  fustic 
chips,  put  it  in  a tliin  coarse  bag,  boil  it  for  about  three 
quarters  of  an  hour ; you  will  then  dissolve  in  the  hot 
liquor  6 ounces  of  pearlash : also  add  to  it,  two  quarts 
of  clear  logAvood  liquor,  made  from  2 ounces  of  log- 
wood. Then  add  half  an  ounce  of  verdigris,  pound- 
ed fine,  which  must  be  well  dissolved  before  hand  in  a 
small  quantity  of  the  logwood  liquor  ; then  stir  the 
whole  well  together. 


1.  When  the  liquor  has  cooled,  so  you  can  bear  the 
hand  in  it,  place  your  yam  on  2 sticks,  and  dip  and 
turn  it  in  the  dye  for  about  half  an  hour,  then  wring 
and  air  it. 

2.  Should  you  Avish  tlie  color  darker,  then  add  a lit- 
tle more  logwood  liquor  to  tlie  rest,  then  dip  and  tiun 


144 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


the  yam  again  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  it  is  then  to  be 
wrung  out  and  aired.  For  a very  dark  olive,  you  will 
prepare  a kettle  with  a suitable  cjuantity  of  water,  and 
add  to  it  three  ounces  of  copperas,  dissolved  before 
hand  in  a little  water,  then  enter  your  jam  and  turn  it 
for  about  4 or  5 minutes ; it  is  then  to  be  rinsed,  wrung 
and  dipped  again  in  the  fustic  and  logwood  liquor  for 
10  minutes  ;then  rinsed,  wrung  and  di'ied. 


DIRECTION  XVIII. 

Olive  on  Cotton,  with  a Blue  Ground. 

To  dye  2 pounds  of  yarn  it  will  require 
8 ounces  of  sumac, 

3 ounces  of  copperas, 

8 ounces  of  fustic, 

\ an  ounce  of  verdigris, 

1 ounce  and  a half  of  blue  vitriol. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

1.  Boil  out  the  yam  and  afterwards  dye  it  a light 
blue  in  the  indigo  dye  ; it  is  then  to  be  rinsed,  and 
wrung  a short  time  before  dipping. 

2.  Prepare  an  iron,  brass  or  copper  kettle,  with  about 
3 gallons  of  w’ater  ; then  add  to  it  8 ounces  of  sumac 
shoots  and  leaves  cut  up  fine.  Boil  it  for  three  quar- 
ters of  an  hour,  then  strain  the  liquor  or  pour  off 
the  clear  part,  and  suffer  it  to  cool  so  that  you  can  en- 
dure the  hand  in  it  while  dipping. 

3.  Place  the  yam  on  two  sticks,  and  dip  and  turn  it 
for  about  half  an  hour  ; then  sink  the  yam  entirely  un- 
der the  liquor  and  let  it  remain  over  night ; next  mor- 
ning it  is  to  be  taken  out  and  wTung : then  empty  a- 
way  the  liquor. 

4.  Prepare  the  kettle  with  about  3 gallons  of  water, 
then  dissolve  in  it  2 ounces  of  copperas ; you  will  tlten 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


145 


dip  and  turn  the  yam  in  it  for  about  15  miiuites  ; it  is 
then  to  be  rinsed  and  uTung. 

5'  In  the  next  place,  empty  away  the  copperas  liquor 
and  put  in  the  kettle  about  3 gallons  of  water ; then 
add  8 ounces  of  fustic  chips,  which  are  to  be  put  in  a 
tliin  coarse  bag  and  boiled  three  quarters  of  an  hour ; 
vou  will  tlien  take  out  the  bas;  and  add  half  an  ounce 
of  verdigris,  pounded  fine  and  dissolved  in  a little  of 
the  hot  fustic  liquor  beforehand,  then  stir  the  whole  well 
together. 

' Wlien  tlie  liquor  has  cooled  so  tliat  the  hand  can  be 
borne  in  it ; then  dip  and  turn  the  yam  in  the  dye  for 
about  half  an  hour.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and 
wrung. 

6.  Add  to  the  liquor  which  j^ou  have  just  dipped  in 
one  ounce  and  a half  of  blue  vitriol,  w’hich  must  be 
pounded  and  dissolved  m a little  of  the  hot  liquor  be- 
fore hand,  then  dip  and  turn  your  yam  for  10  minutes. 
Should  you  not  find  the  color  dark  enough,  add  some 
logwood  liquor  and  copperas  to  the  remaining  liquor  ; 
tlien  dip  and  turn  again  for  about  ten  minutes ; and  rinse, 
wring  and  dry  it. 

DIRECTION  XIX. 

Cinnamon  Color  on  Cotton, 

To  dye  1 pound  of  yom  it  wall  require 
4 ounces  of  allum, 

\ an  ounce  of  blue  vitriol, 

8 ounces  of  fustic, 

4 ounces  of  sumac, 

8 ounces  of  madder. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
poun  ds. 

1.  Boil  out  the  yam  a day  before  coloring  it,  and  af- 
ter the  manner  you  will  find  directed  in  the  remarks 
on  boiling,  it  is  then  to  be  rinsed  and  wTung. 


146 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


2.  Prepare  a kettle  m ith  about  6 c/liarts  of  water,  ’ 
and  dissolve  in  it  2 ounces  of  allum  and  half  an  ounce  j 
of  blue  vitriol ; heat  tlie  water  as  warm  as  the  hand  | 
M ill  bear,  tlien  place  the  yam  on  a stick  and  dip  and  i 
turn  it  in  the  liquor  for  about  half  an  hour  : it  is  then  to  ; 
be  taken  out  and  ^vriing. 

3.  In  the  next  place,  add  8 oimces  of  fustic  chips  to  ' 
the  allum  liquor . The  fustic  chips  are  to  be  put  in  a 
bag  and  boiled  for  about  one  hour,  in  the  mean  time 
adding  about  2 quarts  of  water. 

The  bag  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  and  the  liquor  suf- 
fered to  cool  to  a little  less  than  a scalding  heat ; then 
dip  and  turn  the  yam  for  about  one  hour : it  is  then  to 
be  uTung  out  and  aired.  Add  to  the  liquor  you  have 
last  dipped  in,  2 ounces  of  allum,  (dissolved  in  a little 
hot  water  before  hand)  the. yarn  is  to  be  dipped  and 
turned  in  the  liquor  ag-ain  for  half  an  hour ; next  uTung 
out  and  aired. 

4.  Prejiare  a brass  or  copper  kettle  with  about  5 gal- 
lons of  clear  water,  then  add  to  it  8 ounces  of  madder,, 
broken  up  fine,  and  4 ounces  of  the  shoots  and  leaves 
of  sumac,  which  last  must  be  cut  up  fine  and  put  into 
a thin  coarse  bag  ; heat  the  liquor  slowly  over  a mode- 
rate fire  ; when  it  is  little  more  than  blood  warm  put 
your  yarn  on  a stick  and  dip  and  turn  it  for  1 hour:  du- 
ring which  time  the  dye  must  be  at  a little  less  than  a 
scalding  heat.  The  yam  is  now  to  be  taken  out,  wrimg 
and  aired. 

Should  you  wish  to  brighten  the  color,  you  will  next 
rinse  out  the  kettle  and  put  in  as  much  water  as  will  co- 
ver the  yam  ; then  add  to  it  one  ounce  of  soap,  cut  up 
fine;  bring  the  liquor  to  boil,  then  enter  the  yarn  under 
the  liquor  and  boil  it  about  half  an  hour  ; it  is  then  to 
be  taken  out,  cooled,  rinsed,  wrung  and  dried. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSIST.ANT. 


147 


DIRECTION  XX. 

Broivn  on  Cotton. 

To  dye  5 pounds  of  yam  it  will  require 
2 poiuids  8 ounces  of  fustic, 

2 pounds  of  logwood, 

4 ounces  of  blue  vitriol, 

8 ounces  of  copperas. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
poimds. 

1.  Boil  out  tlie  yam  a day  previous  to  coloring,  and 
after  the  manner  directed  in  the  first  remarks  on  boiling. 
Afterguards  it  is  to  be  rinsed  and  uTung  a short  tirne 
before  you  commence  coloring  it 

2.  Prepai-e  a kettle  with  about  8 gallons  of  water, 
and  add  to  it  2 pounds  8 ounces  of  fustic  chips,  which 
are  to  be  put  into  a thin  coarse  bag  and  boiled  about  1 
hour.  Take  out  the  bag  and  add  to  the  liquor  8 oun- 
ces of  copperas,  (dissoK  ed  before  hand  in  about  a gal- 
lon of  warm  ater,)  siii-  it  well  together,  and  when  the 
liquor  has  coorled  so  as  to  allow  the  hand  to  be  borne  in 
it  is  ready  for  dipping. 

3.  Place  the  yarn  on  5 sticks  and  dijr  and  turn  it  half 
an  hour ; then  take  it  out,  wring  it  and  empty  away 
tlie  liquor  which  you  have  just  used. 

4.  Prepare  the  kettle  ao-ain  n ith  about  8 gallons  of 
water,  and  add  to  it  2 pounds  of  logu'ood  chips  put  in- 
to a coarse  bag  and  boil  it  about  tiiree  quarters  of  an 
hour  ^ tlien  take  out  the  bag  and  dissolve  in  tlie  liquor , 
4 ounces  of  blue  viti'iol.  Allow  the  liquor  to  cool  so 
much  that  you  can  endure  the  hand  in  it  without  scald- 
ing-: then  place  the  yam  on  sticks  and  dip  and  turn  it 
for  half  an  hour  it  is  then  to  be  WTung  out,  rinsed  and 
dried. 


148  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

DIRECTION  XXL 

Slate  Color  on  Cotton. 

For  2 pounds  of  yai*n  it  will  require 
5 ounces  of  copperas,  and 
1 pound  of  sumac. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

1.  Boil  out  the  yarn  a day  before  coloring  it,  and  in 
tlie  same  manner  as  directed  in  the  hrst  remarks  on  pre- 
paj'ing  yam  for  dyeing.  It  is  to  be  wrung  out  a short 
time  before  you  begin  dipping  it. 

2.  Prepare  a kettle  tvith  about  3 gallons  of  warm 
water  ; add  to  it  5 ounces  of  copperas  and  when  it  is 
perfectl)^  dissolved  place  your  yarn  on  2 sticks,  then 
dip  and  turn  it  in  the  liquor  for  about  haJf  an  hour  : it 
is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  tvruns:. 

3.  In  the  next  place  prepai'e  another  kettle  with  a- 
bout  3 gallons  of  water,  and  add  to  it  1 pound  of  tlie 
shoots  and  lea\  es  of  sumac,  dried  and  cut  up  fine. — 
Boll  it  for  about  half  an  hour,  tlien  strain  olF  the  clear 
part  of  the  liquor,  throw  away  the  sumac,  and  pom*  it 
back  agaui  into  the  kettle. 

4.  After  the  licpior  has  cooled  so  that  you  can  bear 
the  hand  in  it,  then  place  the  yarn  on  the  sticks,  and 
dip  and  turn  it  for  abov’t  half  an  hour;  then  wring.it 
out  and  a ir  it.  If  the  color  is  hot  dark  as  you  \\  ish,  dip 
agabi  in  the  copperas  liquor  for  10  minutes,  then  lastl}q 
in  the  sumic  liquor  for  15  minutes;  then  wring  and 
dry  Avitliout  rinsing. 


DIRECTION  XXII. 

Slate  Color  on  Cotton. 

To  dye  2 pounds  of  yam  it  w ill  require 
3 ounces  of  nutgalls, 


MANUFACTURER'S  ASSISTANT. 


149 


I an  ounce  of  allum, 

- 3 oiuices  of  copperas, 

6 ounces  of  logwood. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  an}'  number  of 
pounds. 

1.  Boil  out  the  yarn  the  day  before  coloring  it,  and 
in  the  same  manner  as  directed  in  the  first  remarks  on 
preparing  yam  for  dyeing.  After  it  is  boiled,  rinse  and 
wring  it  out  a short  time  before  you  commence  dip- 
ping. 

2.  Prepare  a kettle  with  about  three  gallons  of 
water,  and  add  to  it  3 ounces  of  nutgalls,  pounded 
fine ; boil  for  half  an  hour,  then  let  the  galls  settle  at 
the  bottom  and  take  the  clear  part  of  the  liquor  olf  into 
another  kettle  or  tub : otherwise  you  may  strain  it. 

3.  When  the  liquor  has  cooled  so  that  you  can  bear 
the  hand  in  it ; place  the  yam  on  the  sticks  and  dip  and 
turn  it  in  the  liquor  for  about  half  an  hour : it  is  then 
to  be  taken  out  and  wrung. 

4.  Empty  away  the  gall  liquor  and  prepare  the  ket- 
tle with  about  3 gallons  of  w'ater ; then  add  to  it  6 oun- 
ces of  logwood  chips,  which  are  to  be  put  into  a bag 
and  boiled  about  | of  an  hour,  then  take  out  the  bag 
and  add  half  an  ounce  of  allum.  Wdien  the  allum 
is  entirely  dissolved,  and  the  liquor  cooled  so  tha'  you 
can  endure  the  hand  in  it,  clip  aiid  turn  the  yam  for  20 
minutes.  It  is  then  to  be  wrung  out  and  aired,  aiid  the 
allum  liquor  emptied  away. 

5.  Next  put  about  2 gallons  of  cold  water  into  the 
kettle,  and  dissolve  in  it  3 ounces  of  copperas ; then 
dip  and  turn  the  yam  in  the  liquor  for  10  minutes  ; then 
rinse,  tvring  and  diy'  it. 


DIRECTION  XXIII. 

Brown  on  Cotton. 

To  dye  5 pounds  of  yam  it  will  require 
4 ounces  of  pearlash, 

p 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


ISO 

1 pound  of  copperas, 

1 bushel  of  maple  or  white  oak  bark. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

1.  Boil  out  the  yam  a day  before  coloring,  as  usual. 

2.  Prepare  a kettle  with  about  8 gallons  of  water, 
bring  it  nearly  to  a scalding  heat,  then  add  4 ounces  of 
pearlash.  When  it  is  dissolved,  place  your  yam  on  5 
.sticks  and  dip  and  turn  it  in  the  liquor  for  half  an  hour. 
It  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  wrung,  and  the  pearlash 
liquor  emptied  out. 

3.  In  the  next  place,  prepare  a kettle  with  about  5 or 
6 pails  of  u ater,  and  put  in  1 bushel  of  maple  bark,  or 
instead,  take  the  same  quantity  of  white  oak  bai  k. — 
Boil  it  2 hours,  adding  a little  water  occasionally  ; then 
take  out  the  bark  and  strain  the  liquor. 

4.  When  the  liquor  is  about  scalding  hot,  add  one 
pound  of  copperas,  and  stir  it  round  until  it  is  all  dissol- 
ved. You  will  now  suffer  the  liquor  to  cool  a little, 
then  dip  and  turn  the  yarn  on  the  sticks  for  about  15 
minutes  : it  is  then  to  be  uTung  out  and  aired.  Dip  and 
turn  again  for  15  minutes,  and  then  wTing  it  out : so 
j^roceed  for  1 hour.  It  is  then  to  be  rinsed,  wrung  and 
diied. 

Scoii'i'ing  Woollen  Cloth  from  the  Loom. 

Flannel  is  generall)"  w^ove  in  the  grease  in  factories, 
W'hich  method  is  preferred  to  scouring  the  yarn  befoi  e 
w^eaving ; not  only  from  its  being  more  convenient,  but 
it  has  a tendency  to  produce  closer  cloth  and  is  less  lia- 
ble to  break  than  yam  wove  in  a dry  state. 

When  the  cloth  is  wove  and  taken  from  the  loom,  it 
should  be  carefully  and  thoroughly  trimmed,  by  taking 
from  it  all  the  knots,  double  threads  and  loose  ends ; it 
is  then  ready  for  scouring,  which  is  done  in  the  follow- 
ing manner,  viz  : For  a stock  of  clotli  of  60  jxiunds 


MANUFACTUllEirS  ASSISTANT. 


151 


•weight,  or  70  yards  of  flannel  1 yard  wide,  take  6 gal- 
i Jons  of  old  urine  and  6 gallons  of  soft  soap  ; mix  them 
well  together  in  6 gallons  of  hot  water;  when  the  li- 
quor is  as  warm  as  you  can  bear  the  hand  in  it,  spread 
the  flannel  on  the  floor,  and  v.-et  it  equally ; then  enter 
j the  cloth  in  the  fulling  mill,  and  let  it  operate  about  uf- 

■ teen  minutes.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  laid  open, 

■:  to  discover  if  any  parts  are  dry;  if  so,  wet  those  places 
" with  the  same  kind  of  liquor  as  before.  The  cloth  is 

now  to  be  laid  in  the  mill  again,  v,  hich  should  run  nearly 
half  an  hour ; you  may  then  discover  whetlrer  the  grease 
is  sufliciently  iwised,  by  wringing  a small  place  in  the 
cloth  very  hard  ; should  the  grease  come  out  easy  and 

■ free,  it  is  scoured  enough.  You  will  then  pour  into  the 

i mil!  slowly,  4 or  5 pails  full  of  warm  water,  and  after  it* 
] has  produced  a lather,  then  admit  cold  water  to  run 
1 through  it  for  a few  minutes,  or  until  the  filth  and  grease 
i is  well  washed  out.  Should  the  cloth  turn  irregularly, 

' handle  it  over  and  put  it  in  the  mill  again  until  it  is  rinsed 
clean.  It  must  then  be  taken  out  and  dryed  for  the 
j next  process  or  fulling. 

It  will  not  be  improper  to  otjserve  tiiat  the  mill  with 
fallers  will  start  the  gi'ease  better  than  the  crank  mill, 
but  tire  latter  is  the  best  for  washing  ; on  the  whole,  the 
crank  mill  is  to  be  preferred  \vhere  only  one  is  used  for 
both  purposes. 

It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  that  cloth  should  be 
entirely  cleansed  from  grease ; for  should  any  remain, 
it  would  prevent  its  receiving  and  retaining  a bright 
and  permanent  color  ; besides  such  clothsalways  crock, 
and  will  not  admit  of  being  finished  in  a workman-like 
manner. 


Another  Method  to  Scour  Woollen  Cloth  from  the  luoom. 

To  1 ban'el  of  urine  add  1 bushel  of  hog  dung,  mix 
it  well,  then  use  enough  of  the  clear  liquor  to  wet  the 
doth.  After  it  is  equally  wet  let  it  run  in  the  mill  for 


352 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


live  minutes,  then  take  it  out,  handle  it  over,  and  after- 
wards pack  it  together  in  a warm  place  until  it  heats 
through ; then  lay  it  in  the  mill  and  put  on  a pail  full  of 
urine,  let  it  run  10  minutes,  then  take  it  out  and  handle 
it  until  cool.  You  will  then  lay  it  in  again  and  permit 
cold  'water  to  run  through  it  for  half  an  hour,  handling 
once  in  that  time — then  dry  it  for  fulling. 

Fulling. — This  braiich  of  business,  like  other  aits, 
requires  a strict  attention  to  succeed  well. 

For  a stock  of  cloth  of  about  60  pounds  weight,  or 
70  }'ards  of  yard  wide  fiannel,  take  5 pounds  of  hard 
soap,  that  is  free  from  rosin,  shave  it  line  and  put  it  in- 
to a kettle  with  6 gallons  of  soft  water : place  it  over  a 
gentle  fire  and  stir  it  until  the  soap  is  dissolved : after- 
wards suffer  it  to  cool  do’um  to  blood  warmth.  You 
will  then  take  nearly  half  of  the  liquor  and  wet  the 
cloth  evenly,  enter  it  in  the  mill  and  let  it  run  about  one 
hour.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  overhauled ; lay 
it  in  the  mill  again  and  add  the  soap  liquor  as  often  as 
it  inclines  to  get  dry,  but  observe  not  to  get  it  very  wet, 
us  that  would  tend  to  stop  the  felting  of  the  cloth. 

Should  the  cloth  full  rather  slow,  handle  it  o^'cr  once, 
in  about  an  hour  and  a half — adding  liquor  occasionally ; 
proceed  in  this  manner  until  the  cloth  has  become  of  a 
suitable  thickness,  or  the  width  that  is  Avanted. 

Now  w^et  the  cloth  with  4 or  5 pails  of  wnrm  crater, 
-let  it  work  a few  minutes,  then  admit  cold  water  until  it 
runs  off  clear : it  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  sti'etched 
on  the  pin  smooth,  at  ^vhich  time  it  ■will  be  ready  for 
napping,  £cc. 

Of  scouring  clijecl  cloth. — For  a stock  of  cloth,  60 
pounds  weight,  or  about  70  yards  of  nairow’  cloth,  it 
will  recjuire  3 gallons  of  soft  soap,  4 gallons  of  urine 
and  4 gallons  of  soft  water  : put  them  into  a kettle  and 
heat  scalding  hot : stir  it  together  until  dissolved,  then 
suffer  it  to  cool  down  to  a blood  w^armtli.  Wet  tlie 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


153 


cloth  evenly,  and  enter  it  in  the  fulling  mill  to  vvork  for 
'half  an  hour,  then  take  it  out  and  overhaulit ; lay  it  in 
tlie  mill  agato  and  let  it  nm  until  the  superfluous  coin- 
ing matte?  is  raised,  then  admit  it  to  be  washed  m the 

1-nfll  with  water  until  clean.  . 

N B Observe  that  tlie  cloth  should  be  rinsed  in  the 
mill  wWt  water  only  after  it  is  dyed,  then  dryed  before 
you  proceed  to  scour  as  last  directed. 

Of  Blue  on  Woollen.— ^ oo\  and  woollen  stuffs  of  all 
kinds  are  dyed  blue  without  any  other  preparation  than 

wettiiJff  tliemwellinluke-warm  water,  squeezing  them 
well  afterwards,  or  letting  them  dram.  1 his  precaution 
is  necessary  that  the  color  may  the  more  easily  msmuate 
itself  into  the  body  of  the  wool,  that  it  may  be  equally 
dispersed  diroughout ; nor  is  tliis  to  be  omitted  m any 
kmd  of  colors,  whether  the  subject  be  wool  or  cloth. 

As  to  wool  in  the  fleece,  which  is  used  m manufactu- 
ring cloth  for  mixtures,  or  intended  for  only  one  color, 
and  which  it  is  necessary  to  dye  before  it  is  spun,  it  is 
first  prepared  in  another  manner,  viz : it  is  scoured,  and 
thereby  divested  of  the  natural  fat  it  had  when  on  the 
body  of  the  animal.  As  this  operation  is  properly  the 
dyer’s  and  is  indispensable  in  wool  which  is  to  be  dyed 
before’it  is  spun,  let  the  color  be  what  it  will,  we  have 
given  the  best  process  for  scouring  it  see  “ observa- 
tions on  scouring  wool.” 


DIRECTION  XXIV. 

Method  of  Setting  and  Working  the  Indigo  Vat. 

There  are  several  methods  of  erecting  the  indigo 
vat:  some  are  constructed  on  the  plan  of  heating  the 
dye  while  in  the  vat,  while  others  are  calculated  only 
for  working  the  dye,  and  depend  on  heating  it  in  a cop- 
per near  by.  Having  seen  vats  worked  of  both  de- 

p 2 


354 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


scriptions,  we  think  the  former  is  to  be  preferred,  partic- 
ularly from  its  convenience  in  keeping  the  dye  at  regu- 
lar heat,  as  also  saving  much  time  and  trouble  in  emp- 
tying it  backwards  and  forwards  from  the  vat  and  cop- 
per, n hich  is  not  only  a means  of  wasting  the  liquor,  but 
is  in  some  degree  injurious  to  the  dye,  by  exposing  it 
greatly  to  the  action  of  air,  which  it  will  be  perceived 
has  an  affect  to  blacken  it. 

'File  most  approved  method  of  erecting  vats,  tliat 
are  calculated  for  heating  the  blue  dye  while  therein, 
and  securing  a regular  heat  while  dyeing  wool  or  cloth, 
is  the  following.  Have  the  bottom  or  lower  part  of  a 
vat  formed  with  a cast  iron  kettle,  having  it  of  such  a 
size  as  the  extent  of  your  work  requires.  The  staves 
which  are  to  form  the  chief  part  of  the  vat,  should  be 
made  of  pine  plank,  thoroughly  seasoned,  clear  stuff, 
about  2 inches  thick,  and  well  bound  witli  iron  hoops. 
The  vat  should  be  largest  at  the  top,  and  the  bottom 
part  calculated  of  such  a size  as  will  set  3 or  4 inches 
in  depth,  on  the  inside  from  the  top  of  the  kettle,  allow- 
ing a sufficient  space  to  cork  it  thoroughly  with  oakum 
between  the  top  of  the  kettle  and  staves.  Previous  to 
this,  an  iron  hoop  must  be  fastened  round  the  top  of 
the  kettle,  to  render  it  secure.  After  the  vat  is  thus 
prepared,  place  it  in  a convenient  spot,  with  the  bot- 
tom of  the  kettle  set  a few  inches  in  the  ground ; then 
surround  it  with  brick  work  to  a suitable  height,  having 
a small  fireplace  in  front,  and  a flue  against  the  kettle, 
made  in  a circular  form  to  convey  the  heat  to  all  sides 
of  the  dye,  and  then  made  to  pass  into  a chimney. 

To  set  a vat  of  6 barrels,  you  will  first  fill  the  A^at  a- 
bout  half  full  of  boiling  water.  Then  1|  pounds  pot- 
ash previously  dissolved  in  hot  water,  is  to  be  added — 
then  take  12  quarts  of  wheat  bran  that  is  free  from 
flour  and  sprinkle  into  the  vat ; 12  ounces  of  good 
madder  is  next  to  be  added,  which  should  be  broken 
fine  ; the  whole  is  then  to  be  well  mixed  together  by 
stirring  it  with  the  rake.  In  the  next  place  pour  into  the 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


155 


vat  pounds  of  best  indigo,  that  has  been  ground  in 
'water  as  fine  as  oil,  rake  it  well  a few  minutes,  then  co- 
ver the  vat  close,  observing  through  all  this  process  the 
vat  should  be  closely  covered,  except  at  the  time  of  in- 
troducing the  different  articles. 

In  setting  a new  vat  tlie  evening  is  the  best  time,  having 
all  the  materials  added  by  ten  at  night.  The  morning  af- 
ter setting,  a gentle  fire  is  to  be  made,  to  enable  the  dy- 
er to  keep  up  a moderate  heat  in  the  vat,  but  observe 
not  to  allow  tlie  dye  to  become  hardly  scalding  hot : at 
this  time  the  vat  is  to  be  opened  and  plunged  with  the 
rake  from  the  top  to  the  bottom,  which  will  cause  bub- 
bles to  appear.  If  on  repeating  the  plunges  a few 
times,  a thick  deep  blue  froth  arises  on  the  surface  of 
the  dye,  and  remains  flouting,  the  liquor  wearing  the 
appearance  of  a dark  green,  the  dye  may  be  pronoun- 
ced to  be  in  a good  state.  Should  it  be  found  necessa- 
ry to  rake  and  plunge  the  dye  2 or  3 times,  you  will  ob- 
serve to  cover  the  vat  close  and  let  it  remain  an  hour 
between  each  trial  of  plunging. 

Should  your  vat  be  set  without  any  convenience  at- 
tached to  it  for  heating,  and  thereby  suffered  to  become 
cool  before  it  has  come  to  work,  there  will  be  no  head 
arise  on  the  surface,  although  it  may  otherwise  be  good. 
In  tliis  case  you  will  have  to  reheat  the  dye  in  the  cop- 
per, and  then  pour  it  back  again  into  the  vat ; tliis  will 
retard  business  and  cause  trouble,  whereas  tlie  vat  that 
has  a kettle  for  its  bottom,  can  be  kept  at  a regular  heat 
with  the  greatest  ease. 

If  the  dye,  on  opening  it  the  morning  after  setting,  has 
a pale  blue  appearance,  nearly  half  a pound  of  fine  mad- 
der is  to  be  sprmkled  into  it.  Should  the  liquor  have 
a whitish  scum,  it  is  a proof  that  it  does  not  work,  and 
will  not  color  in  that  state  : in  tliis  case  a part  of  the  dve 
should  be  reheated,  and  a small  quantity  of  all  its  ingredi- 
ents added  and  in  the  same  proportion  as  at  first.  A 
handful  of  lime  slac  ked  to  powder  should  then  be  put 
into  warm  water  ; after  it  has  settled,  pour  the  clear 


156 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


part  into  the  vat,  rake  it  well  and  allow  it  to  stand  an 
hour  between  each  raking,  observing  not  to  uncover  the  j 
vat  often,  but  let  the  air  be  excluded  as  much  as  possi- 1 
ble  by  surrounding  the  top  with  cloths  or  blankets,  se-  j 
curing  the  heat  to  that  degree  that  you  can  just  endure  i 
your  hand  in  a few  seconds.  When  the  dye  has  come  i 
to  a head  and  is  in  a good  state  for  dyeing,  (according  ' 
to  appearances,  which  have  been  stated  before)  then  let 
it  stand  secure  in  that  situation  until  you  wish  to  com- 
mence dyeing,  at  which  time  a copper  is  to  be  filled 
with  clear  water,  then  add  2 pounds  of  potash  that  has 
been  dissolved  in  hot  water,  also  one  pound  of 
madder  and  16  quarts  of  bran;  boil  for  15  minutes, 
then  extinguish  die  fire,  allow  it  to  settle  a few  minutes 
and  empty  the  clear  part  into  the  vat.  Then  add  two 
pounds  of  best  indigo  finely  ground.  Having  filled  the 
vat  within  4 inches  of  the  top,  rake  it  well  and  cover  it 
close.  The  next  morning  the  vat  should  be  opened 
and  plunged,  then  cover  it  close ; let  it  rest  one  hour, 
plunge  again  and  let  it  rest  for  the  same  time. 

If  the  dye  is  in  gxx>d  condition,  there  will  be  several 
quarts  of  froth  on  the  surface,  which  will  appear  of  a 
copper- colored  blue,  and  the  liquor  of  a dark  green ; in 
this  state  the  dye  is  proper  to  be  employed  in  coloring. 

The  cloth  intended  to  be  dyed  should  be  cleansed 
from  all  filth,  especially  grease,  as  that  •would  overset  ; 
the  dye  even  in  its  best  state.  Before  the  cloth  is  en- 
tered into  the  vat,  it  must  be  thoroughly  wet  in  hot  wa- 
ter and  drained.  The  quantity  of  indigo  and  other  in- 
gredients that  have  been  directed,  will  dye  to  advan- 
take  60  yards  of  flannel,  which  should  first  be  scoured 
or  about  one  quarter  part  fulled.  Half  of  that  quantity  ; 
may  be  dyed  at  one  draught.  As  soon  as  the  vat  is 
opened  for  the  purpose  of  dyeing,  take  off  the  froth  and 
put  it  in  a convenient  vessel ; next  let  down  the  net, 
which  should  be  attached  to  an  iron  hoop  and  suspen-  : 
ded  by  three  cords.  The  stick  or  cross  piece  is  then  ' 
to  be  placed  about  one  inch  below  the  surface  of  the  ] 


MANUFACTURER'S  ASSISTANT. 


i5r 


,d}’e,  for  the  purpose  of  hauling  the  cloth  over  it.  You 
Will  now  place  the  cloth  in  regular  folds,  begin  at  one 
end  and  haul  it  in  the  dye,  keeping  it  well  open  till  you 
liave  draun  through  the  Avhole  draught ; continue  haul- 
ing the  cloth  backwards  and  forwards  from  end  to  end 
for  about  20  minutes,  during  which  time  it  is  to  be 
kept  entirely  under  the  surface  of  the  dye.  After  this 
process,  begin  at  one  end  and  ui'ing  it  up,  then  take  it 
on  the  folduig  table  or  boards,  and  fold  it  over  and 
over  until  it  becomes  blue  and  even.  If  this  part  of 
the  business  is  neglected,  your  cloth  will  be  clouded. 
When  the  cloth  is  first  taken  out  of  the  A'at,  if  the  dye 
!is  in  good  order,  it  will  exhibit  a green  shade,  but  on 
i being  exposed  to  tlie  air  will  soon  become  blue.  After 
each  draught  of  cloth  has  been  dipped  twice,  take  out 
I the  cross  piece  and  net,  and  return  the  froth  back 
which  was  taken  oif,  rake  and  plunge  the  dye  several 
times,  then  cover  it  close.  An  hour  after  open  the  vat, 
place  the  net  and  cross  piece,  and  proceed  in  dyeing  as 
before  until  the  color  is  nearly  as  dark  as  will  at  last  be 
required. 

The  cloth  must  now  be  rinsed  and  pass  a second 
milling.  Before  you  dip  the  cloth  for  the  last  time, 
you  will  reheat  part  of  the  dye  (which  is  at  tl^is  time  of  a 
bluish  broum)  in  the  copper,  and  when  it  is  ready  to 
boil,  all  the  scum  that  is  formed  at  tlie  top  is  taken  off 
with  a sieve,  tlien  add  the  same  proportions  of  bran, 
madder,  and  potash  as  before,  boil  for  15  minutes,  the 
fire  is  then  removed  from  tlie  copper,  and  a little  cold 
water  put  in  to  stop  tlie  boil,  allow  it  to  settle  for  a few 
minutes,  then  pour  the  clear  part  into  die  vat,  at  ivliich 
time  add  2 pounds  of  finely  ground  indigo.  After  this 
the  vat  is  raked,  covered,  and  some  fire  put  round  it : 
the  next  day  it  will  be  fit  to  work,  which  is  to  be  man- 
aged as  before  directed  until  you  have  obtained  the  de- 
sired shade.  After  this,  the  dye  should  be  suffered  to 
cool,  then  kept  covered  close  till  it  is  again  employed 
for  coloring..  The  dyer  mu 


158 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


to  heat  the  dye  as  often  as  once  in  six  weeks  to  preserve 
it.  When  the  dye  becomes  thick  and  sizy  by  much 
use,  the  clear  part  of  it  must  be  boiled,  the  scum  taken 
off,  and  the  clear  part  returned  to  the  vat ; at  which  time  ,, 
add  two  quarts  of  lime  water,  which  will  clarify  it  and 
cast  down  the  sediment ; should  tlie  grounds  rise,  the 
color  will  be  imperfect,  therefore  they  should  be  well 
settled  before  the  goods  are  admitted. 

In  dyeing  wool  in  the  fleece,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
have  an  additional  net,  made  in  a circular  form,  A\  ith 
meshes  about  an  inch  square.  The  net  should  have  a 
border  fastened  to  it  of  stout  cotton  or  linen  cloth,  Avith 
loop  holes  near  the  edge,  having  a cord  run  through 
them.  When  the  net  is  let  down  into  the  dye,  the  bor- 
der is  to  be  brought  over  the  edge  of  the  vat,  and  the 
loop  cord  secured  in  many  places  by  hooking  it  over 
nails  on  tlie  outside.  After  the  wool  has  been  scoured 
clean,  rinsed,  and  nearly  dried,  it  is  then  thrown  loose- 
ly in  the  dye,  and  stirred  about  regular  with  a smooth 
stick  for  20  minutes.  The  loop  cord  is  tlien  taken  from 
all  sides  of  the  vat,  and  brought  together  above,  form- 
ing with  the  cord  a few  loops,  these  are  to  be  put  up- 
on a hook  attached  to  a stout  strap  or  rope.  The  strap 
is  then  am  over  a pulley  fixed  to  the  floor,  and  the  net 
dra  i\m  out  of  the  dye ; two  sticks  of  timber  are  then 
placed  across  the  top  of  the  vat,  and  a half  barrel  tub, 
(bored  with  lioles)  rested  on  them,  over  the  centre  of 
the  dve.  Next  let  the  net  and  wool  sink  into  the  tub, 
put  o1i  the  top  of  it  a circular  follower  and  press  it  hard 
with  a lever.  Then  remove  the  tub,  take  out  the  wool, 
and  air  it ; in  this  manner  proceed  to  dip  and  air  until 
it  is  dark  enough. 

After  coloring  deep  blue  on  cloth  or  wool,  the  dye 
may  be  used  for  pale  blues,  which  ansv.’ers  a better  pur- 
pose for  that  shade  when  it  is  weak. 


MANUFACTUREll-S  ASSISTANT.  159 

DIRECTION  XXV. 

For  an  excellent  Black  on  JVoollpi. 

For  20  yards  or  16  pounds  of  clotli  or  yam  it  will 
require  the  following  articles, 

8 pounds  of  logwood, 

1 pound  4 ounces  sumac, 

1 pound  4 ounces  maple  bark, 

8 ounces  of  nutgalls, 

3 pounds  8 ounces  of  copperas, 

4 ounces  of  pearlash, 

3 ounces  cream  of  tartar,  and 

4 ounces  of  verdigids. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

To  produce  a superior  black,  you  must  in  tlie  first 
place  d}'e  the  clotli  a light  indigo  blue  in  the  wai'm  dye 
n hich  is  to  be  done  before  fulling ; then  full  and  fit  it 
for  coloring. 

1.  Prepare  a kettle  with  about  three  ban'els  of  water, 
then  add  to  it  8 pounds  of  logv.  ood,  one  pound  four 
ounces  of  sumac,  the  same  quantity  of  maple  bark, 
and  8 ounces  of  nutgalls  pow  dered  fine.  It  is  then . 
brought  to  boil  for  one  hour  and  a half ; you  will  then 
stop  it  from  boiling,  and  suffer  the  chips  and  dye  stuff 
to  settle  at  the  bottom ; then  take  out  the  clear  dye  li- 
quor, and  put  it  into  a clean  hogshead,  w Inch  will  be 
ready  for  use  in  one  w'eek. 

2.  In  the  next  place  prepare  a small  kettle  wdth  a 
pail  full  of  w arm  water,  and  dissolve  in  it  3 pounds  8 
ounces  of  copperas,  which  must  be  stiired  while  dis- 
solving, and  aftenvards  the  scum  is  to  be  taken  off. 

3.  When  your  logwood  liquor  has  stood  for  tlie  time 
above  mentioned,  or  somew  hat  longer  if  more  conve- 
nient ; then  put  about  two  tliirds  of  it  into  a clean  ket- 
tle, bring  it  to  a boil,  and  put  in  your  clotli  and  run  it 
while  boiling  for  about  one  hour.  At  tliis  time  let  an- 


160 


MANUF^^CTTJRER'S  ASSISTANT. 


other  person  stir  up  and  skim  the  copperas  water,  and  ; 
take  about  5 quarts  of  it  and  pour  into  the  dye  slowly,  ’ 
a little  at  a time,  while  you  are  moving  the  cloth  in  the  ; 
dye  ; minding  not  to  pour  it  on  the  cloth,  but  rather  on  1 
the  side  of  the  kettle.  The  cloth  is  to  be  run  one  hour  ‘ 
after  the  copperas  liquor  is  added  ; then  taken  out  and 
aired. 

4.  The  dye  must  now  be  refreshed  with  some  of  the 
prepared  logwood  liquor,  and  also  add  about  one  quart 
of  the  copperas  liquor.  It  is  tlien  brought  to  a boil, 
and  die  cloth  put  in  and  nm  while  boiling  for  one  hour, 
then  taken  out  and  aired. 

5.  You  wall  now  add  the  remainder  of  the  logivood 
liquor  to  the  dye  ; also  four  ounces  of  pearlash,  three 
ounces  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  four  ounces  of  verdigris, 
which  last  must  be  slacked  before  hand  by  putting  it 
in  several  thicknesses  of  wet  brown  paper,  and  then 
covering  it  up  in  hot  embers  : it  is  then  to  be  dissolved 
in  a little  of  the  hot  dye  lic[uor,  and  added  to  the  dye, , 
The  dye  is  now  to  be  brought  to  a boil,  and  the  cloth 
put  in  and  run  while  boiling  for  one  hour ; then  taken 
out  and  aired,  and  afterwards  rinsed  and  scoured. 


DIRECTION  XXVI. 

To  dye  a common  Black  on  JVoollcn. 

For  20  yards  or  16  pounds  of  cloth  or  yam  it  will  re- 
quire 

2 pounds  and  a half  of  copperas, 

2 ounces  of  blue  vitriol, 

8 pounds  of  logwood, 

2 pounds  of  fustic. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

1.  Prepare  a kettle  with  a sufficientquantity  of  water 
to  admit  your  woollen  to  be  worked  in  the  dye  without 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


161 


being  crowded : bring  the  neater  to  a scalding  heat, 
tlien  put  in  the  cloth  or  yam  for  a few  minutes.  When 
it  is  wet  tlioroughly  take  it  out  and  drain  it. 

2.  In  the  next  place  put  in  two  pounds  of  copperas 
and  2 ounces  of  blue  vitriol.  When  botli  are  entirely  dis- 
solved, bring  the  liquor  to  a gentle  boil,  stir  up  the  dye 
and  put  in  the  cloth  or  yam.  (In  dyeing  of  woollen 
yam  observe  that  it  should  often  be  stirred  about  in  the 
dye  with  a stick  : the  same  way  also  should  be  practi- 
ced in  dyeing  small  quantities  of  flannel  cloth ; but  it 
will  be  found  necessary  to  use  a reel  to  dye  cloth  in 
large  quantities)  run  the  cloth  for  one  hour,  and  air  it 
once  in  that  time  ; it  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  aired,  and 
rinsed  well. 

3.  The  copperas  liquor  is  now  to  be  emptied  away 
and  the  kettle  rinsed  and  filled  nearly  full  of  water ; then 
add  8 pounds  of  logwood  chips  and  2 pounds  of  fustic 
chips,  which  are  to  boiled  about  two  hours,  then  add 
some  water  and  take  out  the  chips. 

4.  The  cloth  is  now  to  be  put  in  and  mn  while  boil- 
ing for  half  an  hour ; then  take  it  out  and  air  it.  Add 
half  a pound  of  copperas  to  the  dye,  and  when  it  is  dis- 
solved, enter  the  woollen  and  run  it  for  half  an  hour 
longer;  then  air,  rinse,  and  scour  it  well. 

DIRECTION  XXVII. 

Another  common  Black  on  JVoollen. 

For  20  yards  or  16  pounds  of  clotli  or  yam. 

The  following  receipt  may  be  considered  %vorth  at- 
tention to  those  who  v ish  to  dye  black  on  v/oollen  in 
families,  as  it  is  attended  Avith  Gut  little  trouble  and  ex- 
pense. The  same  may  be  said  of  the  last  receipt  for 
dyeing  a common  black.  There  are  many  families  who 
already  understand  how  to  dye  a good  black  onAvoollen  ; 
o 


162 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


but  there  are  also  many  who  do  not.  Some  fail  in  pro- 
ducing a good  black,  by  not  using  enough  dye  stuff  in 
proportion  for  their  woollen ; others  fail  by  mixing  the 
copperas  and  logwood  together,  through  the  whole  course 
of  dyeing  the  black ; and  many  by  not  having  a suffi- 
cient quantity  of  water  at  first.  There  should  always 
be  so  much  dye  liquor  in  dyeing  woollen  of  any  color, 
that  the  cloth,  yam,  or  wool,  may  be  moved  about  loose 
and  free  in  the  dye. 

1.  Prepare  a kettle  with  a sufficient  quantity  of  water, 
bring  it  to  a scalding  heat,  then  add  12  ounces  of  blue 
vitriol  that  is  pounded ; when  it  is  dissolved  put  in  your 
woollen,  and  let  the  liquor  boil  gently  while  you  are  run- 
ning the  cloth,  or  stirring  it  about  in  the  dye.  When 
it  has  been  in  half  an  hour,  take  it  up  drain  and  air  it, 
then  dip  again  as  before  for  half  an  hour.  It  is  then  to 
be  taken  out  and  cooled. 

2.  Now  add  to  the  liquor  some  water  and  6 pounds 
of  logwood  chips,  boil  smartly  for  half  an  hour,  then 
put  in  the  woollen  and  run  or  stir  it  about  for  half  an 
hour.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  cooled. 

3.  In  the  next  place  add  either  of  the  following  ar- 
ticles to  the  dye  : one  pound  and  a half  of  madder,  or 
3 pecks  of  butternut  bark,  or  a pail  full  of  sumac,  or 
half  a bushel  of  soft  maple  bark  ; either  one  of  the  kinds 
will  answer.  You  will  then  boil  and  dip  until  the  color 
pleases.  Should  you  find  it  not  black  enough,  dissolve 
a handful  of  copperas  separate  in  a little  of  the  hot  dye  li- 
quor, then  add  it  to  the  dye,  and  dip  the  woollen  a few 
minutes  longer  and  it  will  be  completed.  Then  cool, 
rinse,  and  scour  it  well. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT.  163 

DIRECTION  XXVIII. 

Green  on  JFoollen. 

To  dye  1 pound  of  cloth,  yarn,  flannel,  or  any  kind 
of  woollen  articles,  it  will  require  tire  following  ingredi- 
ents. 

1 ounce  and  a quarter  of  oil  of  vitriol, 

1 quarter  of  an  ounce  of  indigo, 

1 ounce  cream  of  tartar, 

2 ounces  of  allum, 

8 ounces  of  fustic. 

Use  tlie  same  proportion  of  articles  to  dye  any  num-* 
ber  of  pounds. 

In  tlie  first  place  prepare  the  chymic  or  compound  of 
oil  of  vitriol  and  indigo,  which  is  made  in  the  following 
manner. 

Take  a glazed  earthen  cup  or  pot,  of  a suitable  siz^e 
and  put  in  one  ounce  aud  a quarter  of  oil  of  vitriol ; 
then  add  to  it  one  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  Spanish  flote 
or  best  Bengal  indigo  which  is  to  be  pounded  fine  and 
sifted ; then  stir  tlie  mixture  hastily  with  a stick,  w hich 
is  necessary  in  order  to  mix  it  well  and  produce  a reg- 
ular fermentation ; this  should  be  done  until  it  has  done 
w orking : then  add  half  a table  spoonful  of  water,  and 
mix  it  together  and  it  wnll  be  fit  for  use  in  one  day. 

Should  die  compound  not  work  or  ferment  after  stir- 
ring it,  you  may  conclude  the  oil  of  vitriol  is  not  good 
and  had  better  not  be  used. 

Supposing  you  wish  to  make  move  compound  than 
wnll  be  wanted  for  d}-eing  at  one  time,  you  must  put  it 
in  a glass  bottle  and  stop  it  close  with  a ivax  or  glass 
stopper ; in  this  way  it  will  keep  good  for  a year  or 
more  : however  those  wdio  have  had  no  practice  in 
dyeing  green  may  as  w^ell  procure  only  as  much  oil 
of  vitriol  and  indigo  as  will  be  wanted  to  dye  their  wool- 
len at  one  time  ; for  in  this  ivay  there  will  be  no  chance 


164 


MANUFx\CTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


of  making  any  mistake  in  using  too  much  oi'  too  little. 
After  one  trial  is  made  in  dyeing  green,  it  will  be  found 
afterwards  simple  and  easy.  Observe  that  in  the  a- 
bove  direction  to  make  the  compound,  tlie  quantity  of 
oil  of  vitriol  and  indigo  stated,  is  calculated  to  dye  one 
pound  of  woollen. 

Dyeing  the  Greai. 

1.  Prepare  either  an  iron,  brass  or  copper  kettle, 
with  three  gallons  of  water ; which  is  sufficient  for  one 
pound  of  woollen.  When  the  water  is  scalding  hot, 
add  one  ounce  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  two  ounces  of 
allum ; then  bring  it  to  boil  and  put  in  the  woollen, 
boil  it  about  one  hour  and  a half ; stirring  it  in  the  li- 
quor occasionally  during  that  time.  It  is  then  to  be 
tiikeii  out,  drained  and  aired. 

2.  You  will  now  add  some  water  to  tlie  kettle  to> 
make  up  the  deficiency  caused  by  boiling ; then  add 
to  the  liquor,  two  thirds  of  the  compoimd  of  oil  of  vit- 
riol and  indigo  ; mix  it  well  witli  the  liquor,  then  put 
in  the  woollen,  keeping  the  liquor  at  only  a scalding 
heat,  and  often  moving  it  about  in  the  dye.  When  the 
woolleii  lias  been  in  the  dye  half  an  hour,  it  is  to  be  ta- 
ken out,  aired  and  rinsed. 

3.  In  the  next  place  add  8 ounces  of  fustic  chips  to 
ihe  liquor,  which  are  to  be  put  loosely  in  a thin  coarse 
bag,  and  boiled  about  an  hour  and  a half.  The  bag  is 
ihen  to  be  taken  out,  and  the  woollen  put  in  and  boiled 
gently  little  more  than  an  hour;  airing  the  woollen  once 
in  that  time.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  aired. 

4.  You  will  find  at  this  time  you  have  produced  a 
green.  Should  it  be  found  to  bear  too  much  on  the 
\ ellow,  then  add  a little  more  of  tlie  compound  to  the 
<lye,  and  put  in  the  woollen  again  : or  if  it  is  too  much 
on  the  blue  shade,  boil  up  a little  more  fustic  in  the  li- 
quor. In  tliis  way  you  may  I'ary  the  shade  according 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT.  165 

to  your  fancy.  If  you  want  a light  green,  use  the  less 
fustic  and  compound.  After  it  is  dyed,  air  and  rinse 
it. 

Another  method  to  dye  Green. 

1.  Prepare  the  yam  by  boiling  it  in  allum  and  cream 
of  tartai',  the  same  as  mentioned  in  the  above'  receipt 
for  one  hour  and  a half : it  is  tlien  to  be  taken  out  of 
the  liquor  and  aired. 

2.  Add  to  the  liquor  the  same  quantity  of  fustic 
chips  in  a bag  as  mentioned  before,  and  boil  it  about  an 
hour  and  a half:  then  take  out  the  bag  and  put  in  tlie 
woollen  for  half  an  hour : it  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and 
aired. 

3.  In  the  next  place  put  in  two  thirds  of  the  com- 
pound : mix  it  well  Avith  the  dye  liquor,  and  put  in  the 
woollen  for  half  an  hour ; during  which  time  it 
should  be  moved  about  in  tlie  dye  at  only  a scalding 
heat.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  aired.  Should 
you  find  the  green  not  dark  enough,  add  a little  more 
of  the  compound  to  the  dye  and  put  in  the  woollen  a- 
gain  ; then  air  and  rinse. 

This  last  method  of  dyeing  green  will  ansAver  very 
AA^ell ; but  is  not  hardly  equal  to  the  one  AA^here  the  blue 
is  put  on  first ; but  the  last  method  Avhere  the  yelloAv  is 
put  on  first,  is  rather  more  convenient  than  die  other, 
ill  particulai'  for  neAv  beginners  : as  in  that  way  they  can 
Avidi  more  safety  produce  the  desired  shade,  by  putting 
in  but  a little  of  the  compound  at  once  ; Avhich  at  the 
same  time  tends  to  produce  an  even  color. 

N.B.  Gr  een  can  be  dyed  as  handsome  as  is  com- 
monly done  Avithout  cream  of  tartar ; but  in  that  case 
you  will  use  three  ounces  of  allum  for  every  pound  of 
woollen.  ObserA'e  to  mix  the  compoimd  well  in  thf 
dje,  before  the  woollen  is  entered. 

^2 


166  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

DIRECTION  XXIX. 

Best  Bottle  Green  on  Woollen. 

After  your  woollen  is  dyed  green  as  stated  in  Direc- 
tion XXVIII,  then  take  for  one  pound  of  woollen,  2 
ounces  of  log- wood  chips,  which  are  to  be  put  in  loose 
into  a bag  and  boiled  in  the  dye  for  a little  more  than 
half  an  hour : then  take  out  the  bag,  and  add  half  an 
ounce  of  copperas.  When  it  is  dissolved,  put  in  the 
woollen  and  boil  it  gently  for  half  an  hour,  stirring  it 
about  during  the  time.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  cool- 
ed and  rinsed. 

DIRECTION  XXX. 

Nicaragua-Red  on  Woollen. 

To  dye  1 pound  of  woollen  it  will  require  the  fol- 
lowing articles  : 

3 ounces  of  allnm, 

1 ounce  cream  of  tartar, 

8 ounces  of  Nicaragua. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

1.  Prepare  a brass  or  copper  kettle  with  about  2 pails 
of  water  ; bring  it  to  a scalding  heat,  then  add  3 oun- 
ces of  allum  which  is  pounded,  and  1 ounce  of  fine 
cream  of  tartar : bring  the  liquor  to  a boil  and  put  in 
the  woollen  and  let  it  boil  one  hour  and  a half.  It  is 
then  to  be  taken  out,  aired  and  rinsed  and  the  liquor 
emptied  away. 

2.  In  the  next  place  add  to  the  kettle  as  much  water 
as  before ; then  add  8 ounces  of  nicaragua  chips,  which 
are  to  be  put  loosely  into  a thin  coarse  bag  and  boiled 
about  one  hour  and  a half. 

3.  Now  take  out  the  nicaragua  chips  and  put  in  the 
woollen  : boil  gently  for  about  1 hour,  stirring  and  air- 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


167 

ing  it  during  that  time.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out  cool- 
ed and  rinsed. 

N.  B.  Should  you  wish  the  red  to  bear  on  a scarlet 
color,  you  will  add  a little  yellow  dye  liquor  to  the  al- 
lum  and  tartar  liquor.  The  yellow  dye  may  be  made 
from  fustic,  turmeric,  peach  leaves;  walnut  or  yellow 
oak  bark. 


DIRECTION  XXXI. 

' Madder  Red  on  JVoollen. 

To  dye  1 pound  of  yarn  or  flannel  it  will  require  the 
following  articles  : 

3 ounces  of  allum, 

1 ounce  cream  of  tartar, 

8 ounces  of  madder, 

\ an  ounce  of  stone  lime. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

1.  Prepare  a brass  or  copper  kettle  with  about  five 
gallons  of  u ater ; bring  the  liquor  to  a scalding  heat, 
then  add  3 ounces  of  allum  that  is  pounded,  and  one 
ounce  cream  of  tartar ; then  bring  the  liquor  to  a boil 
and  put  in  the  woollen  and  boil  it  for  2 hours.  It  is 
then  taken  out  aired  and  rinsed,  and  the  liquor  emptied 
away. 

2.  Now  prepare  the  kettle  with  as  much  water  as  be- 
fore, and  add  to  it  8 ounces  of  good  madder,  which 
should  be  broken  up  fine,  and  well  mixed  in  the  water 
before  you  put  in  the  woollen.  When  you  have 
warmed  the  dye  as  hot  as  you  can  bear  the  hand  in  it ; 
then  enter  the  woollen  and  let  it  remain  in  the  dye  for  one 
hour,  during  u hich  time  the  dye  must  not  boil,  but  on- 
ly remain  at  a scalding  heat ; observing  to  stir  about  the 
woollen  constantly  w hile  in  the  dye. 


m MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

3.  When  the  woollen  has  been  in  1 hour,  then  bring 
tlie  dye  to  a boil  for  5 minutes.  The  woollen  is  tlien 
to  be  taken  out  aired  and  rinsed. 

4.  Add  to  the  dye  half  a pint  of  clear  lime  water, 
which  is  made  by  slacking  about  half  an  ounce  of  lime 
to  j)owder ; tlien  add  water  to  it  and  when  settled  pour 
tlie  clear  part  into  the  dye  and  mix  it  well.  Now  put 
in  your  woollen,  and  stir  it  about  for  ten  minutes,  the 
dye  being  only  at  a scalding  heat.  It  is  then  to  be  ta- 
ken out  and  rinsed  immediately. 

N.  B.  Should  you  wish  the  red  t^eiy'  bright,  add  a- 
bout  a quarter  of  an  ounce  or  nearly  Ratable  spoonful  of 
the  aqua  fortis  composition  at  the  time  of  putting  in  the 
madder. 

DIRECTION  XXXII. 

Yellow  on  Woollen. 

To  dye  one  pound  of  cloth  or  yarn  it  will  require 
3 ounces  of  allum, 

1 ounce  cream  of  tartar,  and 
1 pound  of  fustic. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

1.  Prepare  a brass  or  copper  kettle  with  about  foiur 
gallons  of  water  ; bring  it  to  a scalding  heat,  then  add 
3 ounces  of  pounded  allum  and  1 ounce  of  fine  cream 
of  tartar  ; then  enter  the  woollen.  Bring  it  to  a boil 
for  one  hour  and  a half.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out 
cooled  and  slightly  rinsed. 

2.  In  the  next  place  empty  away  the  liquor,  and  put 
in  as  much  water  as  before;  then  add  to  it  1 pound  of 
fustic  chips  cut  up  fine  and  put  loose  in  a thin  coarse 
bag  ; then  boil  it  for  two  hours. 

3.  You  will  then  take  out  tlie  fustic  and  put  in  the 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT.  169 

woollen,  and  stir  or  run  it  while  boiling,  for  one  hour. 
It  is  then  to  be  taken  out  cooled  and  rinsed. 

N.  B.  Instead  of  fustic  you  may  use  hickory  or  yel- 
low oak  bark,  having  the  dye  strong.  (See  description 
of  those  barks.) 


DIRECTION  XXXIII. 

Buff  Color  on  TVoollen. 

For  16  pounds  of  cloth. 

1.  Prepare  a brass  or  copper  kettle  with  a sufficient 
quantity  of  water  to  cover  well  your  woollen ; bring  the 
liquor  to  a scalding  heat,  then  add  one  pound  three 
quarters  of  allum  and  one  pound  of  cream  of  tartar — • 
bring  the  liquor  to  a boil  and  put  in  the  cloth ; run 
while  boiling  for  one  hour  and  a half : it  is  then  to  be 
taken  out  and  aired. 

2.  The  liquor  is  then  to  be  emptied  away  and  the 
kettle  filled  with  as  much  water  as  before  ; then  add  3 
pounds  and  a quarter  of  fustic  chips,  which  is  to  be  put 
in  a bag  and  boiled  about  one  hour  and  a half.  The 
bag  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  one  or  two  pails  full  of 
water  added  to  the  dye. 

3.  Now  add  6 ounces  of  madder  to  the  liquor,  which 
is  to  be  broken  up  fine  and  \vell  mixed.  Then  put  in 
the  clotli  and  run  it  v^hiie  boiling  for  one  hour.  It  is 
then  to  be  taken  out  aired  and  rinsed. 


DIRECTION  XXXIV. 

To  dye  a Scarlet  Red  on  JFoollen  Cloth,  Yarn,  Shawls, 
Fringe,  or  any  kind  of  Woollen  articles. 

Before  the  directions  are  given  to  dye  this  beautiful 
colour,  it  will  not  be  improper  to  state  that  a strict  at- 
tention to  neatness,  and  a careful  observance  of  the  rules 


170 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


laid  down  will  be  necessary  : which,  if  followed,  there 
will  not  be  the  least  difficulty  to  accomplish  the  dyeing 
of  this  color  in  families. 

To  dye  one  pound  of  woollen,  it  will  require  the  fol- 
lowing articles,  which  when  procured  at  the  druggist’s, 
each  kind  should  be  written  upon  to  prevent  any  mis- 
take in  using  them. 

2 ounces  of  spirits  of  nitre, 

I a dram  of  salt  petre  (pounded) 

. 2 drams  of  salamoniac,  (pounded) 

I of  an  ounce  of  grained  tin. 

1 ounce  cream  of  tartar, 

1 ounce  of  cochineal,  (pounded  fine) 

I an  ounce  of  starch, 

4 drams  of  turmeric,  (pounded, 
same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 


Also, 


Use  the 
pounds. 

In  the  first  place  prepare  the  compound  of  aqua  for- 
tis,  which  should  be  made  at  least  2 days  before  you 
color  the  scarlet.  It  is  prepared  in  the  following  man- 
ner, and  the  quantity  of  which  is  calculated  to  dye  one 
pound  of  woollen. 

Take  a clean  glass  bottle  of  a suitable  size,  put  in 
2 ounces  of  spirits  of  nitre,  add  to  it  as  much  clean  rain 
water,  also  2 drams  of  salamoniac,  which  is  pounded  fine, 
and  half  a dram  of  fine  salt  petre.  Shake  them  togeth- 
er until  they  are  dissolved  ; then  add  | of  an  ounce  of 
grained  tin ; these  small  pieces  of  tin  are  to  be  put  in 
one  at  a time,  letting  it  dissolve  before  putting  in  any 
more,  so  proceed  until  the  whole  is  dissolved.  After 
the  compound  is  made  then  stop  the  bottle  close  with 
a wax  or  glass  stopper.  In  using  it  be  careful  to  take 
the  clear  liquor  only. 

Directions  to  grain  the  Tin. 

Melt  block  tin  over  a fire,  then  pour  it  from  a dis- 
tance above  of  four  or  five  feet  slowly  into  a bason  of 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


171 


cold  water.  By  this  process  the  tin  will  be  cast  into 
thin  and  loose  parts,  and  is  then  fit  to  be  dissolved  as 
beforementioned.  Tin  is  oftentimes  procured  at  the 
druggists  already  grained  or  granulated ; in  that  case 
it  is  ready  to  be  dissolved  in  tlie  spirits  of  nitre  or  aqua 
fortis. 

Dyeing  the  Scarlet. 

1.  Prepare  a tin,  brass,  or  copper  kettle  with  about 
five  gallons  of  clean  soft  water ; bring  it  nearly  to  a 
scalding  heat,  then  add  one  ounce  of  cream  of  tartar, 
one  tliird  of  an  oimce  of  cochineal  which  is  finely 
pounded  and  sifted  through  gauze,  and  four  drams  of 
pounded  turmeric.  Make  a quick  fire,  and  when  the 
liquor  almost  boils  add  nearly  half  of  the  clear  com- 
pound already  prepared,  and  mix  it  well  with  the  dye. 

2.  The  liquor  is  now  brought  to  a boil.  The  cloth, 
yam,  or  woollen  articles  being  before  well  cleansed,  wet 
and  drained,  is  now  to  be  entered;  dip  it  while  boiling 
for  one  hour  and  a half.  If  it  is  yarn  or  garments,  they 
are  to  be  continually  moved  or  stirred  with  a stick,  and 
if  cloth  where  it  is  a sufficient  quantity,  it  is  to  be  run 
briskly  on  the  reel. 

3.  The  woollen  is  now  to  be  taken'out,  drained  cool- 
ed, and  rinsed  in  cold  water.  Empty  out  the  dye,  and 
add  as  much  clean  soft  water  as  before  ; then  dissolve 
half  an  ounce  of  starch  in  a little  warm  water,  and  add 
to  the  water  in  the  kettle. 

4.  Bring  the  water  to  a scalding  heat  and  skim  it ; 
then  add  two  thirds  of  an  ounce  of  cochineal  being  f e 
remainder,  also  add  a little  before  it  boils  the  remainder  . 
of  the  prepared  tin  composition,  which  you  must  be 
careful  to  use  only  the  clear  part,  and  when  put  in  the 
dye  it  is  to  be  well  mixed. 

5.  The  dye  is  now  brought  to  a boil,  and  the  u'ool- 
len  entered,  which  is  to  be  stirred  about  as  before.  Boil 


J7.-3  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

it  about  one  hour  and  a half : it  is  tlien  to  be  taken  out 
and  aired,  tlien  rinsed  and  dried. 

N.  B.  Fulled  cloth  must  be  napped  and  sheared  be- 
fore it  is  dyed  scarlet.  After  it  is  dyed  and  rinsed,  then 
tenter  it,  ajid  lay  the  nap  with  a clean  brush.  Press  it 
in  clean  papers,  not  very  hot  as  tliat  would  tarnish  the 
color. 


DIRECTION  XXXV. 

Scarlet  lied. 

To  dye  20  yards  or  16  pounds  of  Yam  or  cloth,  it 
will  require  the  following  articles. 

2 pounds  of  spirits  of  nitre, 

2 ounces  salamoniac,  (finely  pounded) 

1 ounce  sal.  nitre, 

4 ounces  of  grained  tin. 

The  above  ingredients  form  the  composition  of  aqua 
fortis  ; and  is  mixed  as  follows.  Take  a glass  bottle 
of  a suitable  size,  and  put  in  the  spirits  of  nitre  : then 
add  to  it,  2 pounds  of  pure  soft  water  and  mix  it  togeth- 
er : then  also  add  2 ounces  of  salamoniac  finely  pound- 
ed, and  one  ounce  of  sal.  nitre  and  shake  them  togeth- 
er until  the  salts  are  dissolved.  In  the  next  place  4 oun- 
ces of  grained  tin  is  to  be  added  gradually ; dropping 
in  one  by  one  and  waiting  for  one  to  dissolve  before 
putting  in  the  second.  When  it  is  thus  gradually  dis- 
solved, the  composition  is  completed,  and  the  day  after 
it  is  made,  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  When  the  compo- 
<•  sition  is  kept  on  hand,  it  must  be  kept  stopped  close  with 
a V.  ax  or  glass  stoj^per. 

The  following  articles  will  be  wanted  to  dye  the  a- , 
bove  quantity  of  woollen. 

14  ounces  of  cochineal,  (finely  pounded  and  sifted) 
12  ounces  of  cream  of  tartar, 

4 ounces  of  turmeric,  (pounded.)  ' 


' MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT,  173, 

t 

Dye'mg  the  Scarlet. 

1.  After  the  cloth  is  fitted  for  tl\e  press,  having  it 
well  cleansed  and  wet  with  hot  water,  and  the. tin,  brass 
or  copper  kettle  perfectly  cleaned,  then  fill  it  pwre 
soft  water,  and  add  a peck  of  wheat  bran,  ^vhich  is  to 
be  enclosed  in  a bag  and  tied  closely.  Let  the  water 
boil  a few  minutes  ; then  take  out  the  bag  and  add  12 
ounces  of  cream  of  tartar  that  is  pounded  fine  : let  it 
boil  a few  minutes,  then  add  one  third  of  the  cochineal, 
and  4 ounces  of  turmeric,  which  is  to  be  put  in  a bag, 

2.  Make  a quick  fire,  then  add  nearly  half  of  the 
clear  composition,  already  prepared,  and  mix  it  well 
with  the  d}'e  w hich  at  this  time  will  change  to  a blood 
red.  The  liquor  is  now  brought  to  a boil,  then  dip  the 

I cloth,  while  boiling,  for  one  hour  and  a half ; keeping 
it  well  spread  and  running  it  briskly  on  the  reel. 

3.  The  cloth  is  now  to  be  taken  up,  drained  and  coo- 
jled;  then  rinsed  in  cold  water.  Next,  empty  out  the 
I dye.  Add  fresh  and  clear  soft  water  as  before ; bring 
lit  to  a scalding  heat,  then  add  the  remainder  of  tlie  co- 
chineal : also  add,  a little  before  it  boils,  the  remainder 
of  the  clear  composition,  and  when  put  in  the  dye  it  is 
to  be  well  mixed. 

4.  Bring  the  dye  to  a boil  and  enter  the  woollen  and 
run  it  one  hour  and  a half,  while  boiling.  It  is  then  to 
be  taken  out  and  aired,  then  rinsed  and  the  nap  laid  with 
a clean  brush  while  wet,  on  the  bars. 

N.  B.  Particular  care  must  be  observed  in  dyeing 
scarlet  or  other  bright  fancy  colors,  (including  all  light 
Ishades)  that  the  kettles,  reel,  sticks,  and  every  imple- 
ment employed,  should  be  made  perfectly  clean  and 
free  from  any  darkeniiig  substance. 

R 


1T4  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

DIRECTION  XXXVI. 

To  Dye  a Crimson  Color  on  Woollen  Cloth,  Yarn,  Flan- 
nel, Shawls,  Network,  Fringe, 

For  one  pound  of  woollen  it  will  require  the  follow-  ‘ 
ing  articles,  viz : 

JL  ounce  cream  of  tartar, 

2 ounces  of  allum, 

1 ounce  of  cochineal, 

2 drams  salmoniac, 

J of  an  ounce  of  pearlash, 

6 ounces  of  wheat  bran. 

Use  the  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

1.  Prepare  a brass  or  copper  kettle  with  about  4 gal- 
lons of  rain  water,  or  soft  spring  water ; bring  it  to 
scalding  heat,  then  add  one  ounce  of  fine  cream  of 
tartar,  and  2 ounces  of  allum,  jx)unded  fine.  The  li- 
quor is  now  brought  to  a boil,  and  the  woollen  entered^ 
and  stin'ed  about  in  the  dye,  '\\  hile  boiling,  for  one  hour 
and  a half. 

2.  In  the  next  place  take  out  the  woollen  and  air  it ; 
then  rinse  it  slightly  in  clean  ^vater.  Empty  away  tlie  ■ 
liquor  and  add  as  much  clean  soft  water  as  before. — 
When  the  water  has  become  blood  warm,  add  about  6 
ounces  of  wheat  bran,  tied  up  in  a bag. 

3.  Now  bring  the  liquor  to  a moderate  heat,  and 
take  off  the  scum  as  it  rises  to  the  top  ; then  take  out 
the  bag  and  add  1 ounce  of  cochineal  that  is  pounded 
fine  and  sifted.  The  dye  is  now  brought  to  a boil,  and 
the  woollen  put  in  and  stirred  or  turned  round  while 
boiling  for  one  hour ; then  take  it  out  and  rinse  it  in 
clear  cold  water. 

4.  The  dye  is  now  to  be  emptied  aw^ay  and  as  much 
water  added  as  before.  When  the  liquor  is  as  warm  as 
the  hand  can  be  endured  in  it,  dissolve  therein  2 drams  i 
of  salmoniac  which  is  pounded  fine ; then  enter  the 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT,  175 

'woollen  and  move  it  about  hastily  for  5 minutes  •,  it  is 

then  to  be  taken  out  and  drained.  , u 

5 Now  add  one  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  pearlash,  oi 
about  2 tea  spooufulls  ; mix  it  well  with  *e  liquor,  ^tl 
when  the  dve  is  almost  scalding  hot  put  in  the  woollen 
and  move  it  round  for  about  10  minutes  : it  *en 
be  taken  out,  aired  and  rinsed ; which  completes  . 
crimson  that  is  permanent  and  beautiful. 

DIRECTION  XXXVII. 

Orcingc  Color  on  JV^ooUoii. 

To  dye  1 pound  of  cloth,  yarn,  or  garments,  it  will 

^ 1 ounce  of  anatto  or  otter,  and 

2 ounces  of  pearlash. 

1.  Prepare  a brass  or  copper  kettle  with  about  2|  gal- 
lons of  water,  then  add  to  it  1 ounce  of  anatto,  " hicn 
should  be  cut  up  fine  and  put  loosely  into  a bag  as  thin 
as  a strainer  ; also  add  to  the  water  2 ounces  of  pearl- 
ash ; then  boil  it  for  about  1 hour.^ 

2.  Instead  of  putting  the  anatto  into  a bag,  you 

put  the  fine  pieces  loose  in  the  kettle  and  boil  it  for  the 
same  length  of  time;  then  let  it  settle  a few  hours  and 
pour  off  the  clear  part  into  another  kettle  ; throw  away 
the  settlings  and  put  the  clear  liquor  back  as  before. 

3.  Before  you  dip  the  u'oollen  in  the  dye,  it  should 
be  wet  with  hot  water  and  drained:  then  bring  tlie  dye 
to  a scalding  heat  and  put  in  the  woollen,  which  is  to 
be  moved  about  in  the  dye  1 hour  at  nearlv  a boiling 
heat.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  aired  and  rinsed. 

DIRECTION  XXXVIII. 

Cinnamon  Color  on  JVoollen. 

For  24  yards  of  thin  cloth. 

1.  Prepare  a kettle  with  a sufficient  quantity  of  wa- 
ter, then  add  3 pounds  of  ground  camwood  and  3 pecks 
of  butternut  bark ; let  it  boil  a few  minutes,  then  enter 


176  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

the  cloth  and  run  it,  while  boiling,  for  one  hour.  It  is 
then  to  be  taken  out  and  aired. 

2.  Now  put  in  the  cloth  again  and  run  it  for  the 
same  length  of  time  as  before.  Should  it  not  be  as 
dark  as  you  wish,  take  out  the  bark  and  dissolve  a little 
copperas  in  some  hot  water,  and  add  it  to  the  dye ; then 
run  the  cloth  a few  minutes  and  it  is  finished.  Then 
cool  and  rinse  it. 

I ' 

DIRECTION  XXXIX. 

To  Dye  a Dark  Cinnamon,  London  Brown  and  British 

Mud. 

For  20  yards  fulled  cloth,  or  26  yards  thin  cloth. 

1.  Prepare  a kettle  with  a sufficient  quantity  of  win- 
ter, bring  it  to  a moderate  heat,  and  wet  the  cloth  tlior- 
cughly  ; then  take  it  up  and  ^e^  it  drain  : add  6 pounds 
of  camwood  and  half  a pound  of  fustic  chips.  Let  it 
boil  half  an  hour,  then  dip  your  cloth  while  boiling,  for 
one  hour  and  a half.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and 
aired. 

2.  Now  add  some  cold  water  to  the  dye,  and  about 
half  a gill  of  oil  of  viti'iol,  which  is  to  be* mixed  with  a 
little^  cold  water  before  it  is  added;  also  add  a small 
handfull  of  blue  vitriol  and  as  much  copperas.  When 
these  are  entirely  dissolved  and  well  mixed  with  the  li- 
quor, bring  the  dye  to  a boil  and  run  the  cloth  about  1 
hour ; the  dark  cinnamon  is  then  obtained.  It  is  then 
to  be  taken  out,  aired  and  rinsed. 

3.  To  produce  a London  Rrown,  you  \i  ill  proceed 
by  emptying  away  the  liquor  and  adding  as  much  u a- 
ter  as  before  ; then  add  3 pounds  of  logwood  chips  (put 
in  a bag)  which  is  to  be  boiled  one  hour,  then  take  out 
the  bag  and  add  12  ounces  of  copperas ; bring  the  dye 
to  a boil  and  run  the  cloth  about  20  minutes.  By  a*d- 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


177 


cling  some  more  logAvood  liquor  and  copperas,  you  will 
obtain  a British  Mud.  Then  take  up,  cool  and  rinse. 


DIRECTION  XL. 

Olive  Brawn  on  Woollen. 


For  20  yards  or  16  pounds  of  cloth. 

1.  Prepare  a kettle  ^vith  a sufficient  quantity  of  wa- 
ter ; V.  hen  it  has  become  warm  add  12  ounces  of  cream 
of  tartar  and  1 pound  12  ounces  of  allum ; then  bring 

: the  u ater  to  a boil  and  run  the  cloth  while  boiling,  for 
! one  hour  and  a half.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  aired 
I and  rinsed. 

2.  In  tlie  next  place  empty  out  the  liquor  and  fill  the 
kettle  with  water  as  before.  Then  add  6 poimds  of 
fustic  chips  and  1 1 pounds  of  logwood  chips,  which  are 
to  be  enclosed  in  a thin  coarse  bag  and  boiled  about  1 
hour  and  a half ; then  take  out  the  bag  and  refresh  the 
dye  with  some  v\  ater  and  add  one  pound  of  madder, 
u hich  is  to  be  broken  up  fine  and  well  mixed  in  the 
dye. 


ding  heat  for 


The  cloth  is  now  to  be  entered  and  run  at  a scal- 
1 hour ; then  let  the  dye  boil,  and  run  it 
15  minutes  longer.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  aired  and 
rinsed. 

4.  Again  refresh  the  dye  with  some  water,  then  add 
3 ounces  of  the  compound  of  oil  of  vitriol  and  indigo, 
which  is  to  be  cvell  mixed  vdth  the  dye.  Bring  the  dye 
to  a boil  and  dip  the  cloth  for  20  minutes.  It  is  then  to 
be  taken  up,  aired  and  rinsed. 

5.  The  dye  is  now  to  be  refreshed  with  water,  then 
add  one  pound  of  log^vood  chips  (put  in  a bag)  which 
IS  to  be  boiled  half  an  hour;  then  take  out  the  chips 
and  add  8 ounces  of  copperas,;  run  and  boil  the  cloth 
15  minutes,  then  take  up,  cool  and  rinse. 

R 2 


178 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 
DIRECTION  XLI. 


1 


Olive  Brown  on  Woollen. 

For  20  yards  or  16  pounds  of  cloth. 

1.  Prepare  a kettle  with  a sufficient  quantity  of  water, 
then  add  6 pounds  of  fustic  chips  and  boil  it  well  for  1 .( 
hour.  The  cloth  is  then  to  be  entered  and  run  at  a boil- 
ing heat,  for  1 hour.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and 
aired. 

2.  The  dye  is  now  to  be  refreshed  with  water,  then 
add  1 bushel  of  butternut  bark ; boil  it  moderately  one 
hour,  then  enter  your  cloth  and  run  it  for  about  1 hour. 

It  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  aired.  Take  the  chips 
and  bark  out  of  the  dye  and  add  4 ounces  of  copperas  ; 
Y/hen  it  is  dissolved,  enter  your  clotli  and  run  till  it  suits 
your  mind ; then  cool  and  rinse  it. 


DIRECTION  XLII. 

Olive  on  W lollen. 

For  16  pounds  of  cloth. 

1.  Prepare  a kettle  with  about  2 baiTels  of  watei', 
bring  it  to  a scalding  heat,  then  add  1 pound  12  ounces 
of  allum,  and  6 ounces  cream  of  tartar.  When  it  is 
dissolvecl  bring  it  to  a boiling  heat,  then  enter  the  cloth 
and  run  it  while  boiling,  for  one  hour  and  a half.  It  is 
then  to  be  taken  out  and  aired. 

2.  In  the  next  place  refresh  the  dye  with  some  wa- 

ter, then  add  5 pounds  of  fustic  chips,  6 oimces  of 
pounded  turmeric  and  three  ounces  of  madder ; all  of 
which  are  to  be  put  loosely  in  a coarse  bag  and  boiled 
for  about  one  hour  and  a half  Take  out  the  bag  and 
enter  the  cloth  and  run  it  for  one  hour.  It  is  then  to  be 
taken  out  and  aired.  ; 

3.  The  dye  is  now  to  be  refreshed  with  water,  then  j 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT.  179 

add  2 pounds  and  a half  of  logwood  chips,  (put  in  a 
bae)  which  is  to  be  boiled  about  half  an  hour,  then 
talTe  out  the  bag  and  add  6 ounces  of  pearlash  : enter 
the  cloth  and  run  it  while  boiling  for  1 hour.  It  is  then 
to  be  taken  out,  aired  and  rinsed. 

Should  the  color  not  be  dark  enough  after  airing  it, 
add  some  copperas  and  run  again  till  it  pleases. 


DIRECTION  XLIII. 

jVav?/  Blue  on-  Woollen. 

For  20  yards  or  16  pounds  of  cloth. 

1.  Prepare  a kettle  with  2 ban'els  of  water,  bring  i^ 
to  a scaldmg  heat,  then  add  12  ounces  of  copperas,  3 

> ounces  of  allum,  1 \ oimces  of  verdigris  1 f ounces  cream 
of  tartar ; then  bring  tlie  water  to  a boil  and  enter  the 
cloth  : run  it  Avhile  boiling,  for  1 hour.  It  is  then  to  be 
taken  out,  aired  and  rinsed. 

2.  In  the  next  place  empty  away  the  liquor  and  fill 
up  wdth  water  as  before ; then  add  4|  pounds  of 
logwood  chips,  (put  in  a bag)  boil  it  for  If  hours  ; the 
bag  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  the  dye  refreshed  tvith 
water.  Now  add  6 ounces  of  madder,  which  is  to  be 
broken  up  fine  and  w^ell  mixed  in  the  dye  ; it  is  then  to  be 
brought  to  a boil  and  tlte  cloth  put  in  and  run  w hile 
boiling,  for  about  half  an  hour — then  taken  out  and 
aired. 

3.  Now  add  to  the  dye  6 ounces  of  blue  vitriol  and 
3 ounces  of  pearlash  ; mix  it  w^ell  wfith  the  liquor,  then 
run  the  cloth  while  boiling,  for  about  20  minutes.  It  is 
then  to  be  taken  out,  aii'ed  and  rinsed. 


180  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

DIRECTION  XLIV. 

Navy  Blue  on  Woollen. 

For  20  5'ards  or  16  pounds  of  yarn  or  cloth. 

1.  Prepare  a ketile  with  a sufficient  quantity  of  wa- 
ter, briii'r  it  to  a scalding  heat,  then  wet  the  cloth  or 
yarn  and  let  it  drain.  Add  to  the  water  one  jDound  of 
copperas,  2 oimces  of  blue  vitriol  and  1 ounce  of  allum. 
When  it  is  dissolved  bring  the  liquor  to  a boil,  and  run 
the  woollen  for  1 hour.  It  is  then  to  be  taken  out,  air- 
ed and  rinsed. 

2.  In  the  next  place  empty  away  the  liquor  and  fill 
up  again  watli  water  ; then  add  5 pounds  of  logwood 
chips.  Boil  it  for  1 hour,  then  run  the  woollen  for  15 
minutes,  then  take  up  and  air  it.  Now  add  a little  blue 
vitriol,  then  dip  the  woollen.  In  this  way  add  and  dip 
until  you  get  the  shade  to  your  mind. 

DIRECTION  XLV„‘ 

Purple  on  Woollen. 

For  20  yards  or  16  pounds  of  yarn  or  cloth. 

1.  Prepare  a kettle  with  a sufficient  quantity  of  wa- 
ter to  cover  the  cloth  or  yam,  then  add  3 pounds  of 
camwood  and  the  liquor  of  9 pounds  of  logwood. 

2.  Bring  the  dye  to  a boiling  heat,  then  enter  the 
woollen,  (which  must  be  wet  in  hot  water  before  hand 
and  drained)  run  it  for  abouthalf  an  hour  while  boiling. 
It  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  aired. 

3.  In  the  next  place  add  to  the  dye  four  ounces  of 
blue  vitriol  that  is  pounded  pHvhen  it  is  dissolved  then 
run  the  cloth  for  half  an  hour-’  It  is  then  to  be  taken 
up  and  aired.  Now  add  some  copperas  liquor  to  the 
dye,  mix  it  well,  then  run  again  till  the  color  suits ; it 
is  then  to  be  aired  and  rinsed. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


181 


' DIRECTION  XL VI. 

Snuff  color  on  Woollen. 

For  20  yards  or  16  pounds  of  I'arn  or  cloth. 

1.  Prepare  a kettle  with  a sufiicient  quantity  of  wa- 
ter, when  it  has  become  warm,  wet  your  cloth  and  drain 
it,  then  add  one  pound  of  copperas,  brinp-  the  liquor  to 

I a scalding  heat  and  take  oft'  the  scum  that  rises  on  the 
1:  top.  When  the  liquor  begins  to  boil,  enter  and  run 
i the  cloth  one  hour,  (airing  it  once  in  that  time.)  It  is 
then  to  be  taken  up,  aired,  and  rinsed. 

2.  The  liquor  is  now  to  be  emptied  out,  and  the 
kettle  filled  again  with  fresh  water ; then  add  8 pounds 
of  fustic  chips,  half  a bushel  of  butternut  bark,  1 pqund 
of  camwood,  and  half  a pound  of  madder. 

1 3.  The  dye  is  then  to  be  boiled  moderately  2 hours, 

and  the  cloth  run  for  half  an  hour  ; it  is  then  taken  out 
; and  aired.  Dissolve  half  a pound  of  copperas  in  a lit- 
tle of  the  hot  liquor,  then  add  it  to  tlie  dye,  and  run  your 
cloth  until  the  color  suits. 


DIRECTION  XLVII. 

Sniff  Brown  and  London  Smoke. 

For  20  yards  fulled  cloth  or  26  yards  thin  cloth. 

1.  Prepare  a kettle  with  a sufiicient  quantity  of  water 
I when  it  has  become  nearly  scalding  hot,  wet  the  cloth 
and  drain  it.  Then  add  to  the  liquor  two  pounds  of 
eopperas,  bring  it  to  a scalding  heat  and  skim  the  dye. 
!When  the  copperas  is  dissolved,  enter  the  cloth  and 
run  it  wV.ile  moderately  boiling,  forone  h.our ; it  is  then 
Ito  be  taken  out  aired  and  rinsed. 

I 2.  In  tiv  next  place  empty  out  the  liquor,  and  fill  the 
jkettle  again  with  fresh  u ater;  then  add  ten  pouii'-'s  of 
jhistic  chips,  and  one  bushel  of  butternut  bark  ; boil 
moderately  for  three  hours,  then  enter  the  cloth,  and 


182 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


1 

run  and  air  it  several  times  for  one  hour,  or  until  the 
strength  is  well  out  of  the  dye ; it  is  then  to  be  taken  up 
and  aired.  To  darken  the  color  first  take  out  the  bark  ( 
ixnd  chips,  then  add  half  a pound  of  copperas  : when  it  ^ 
is  dissolved  run  the  cloth  for  15  minutes,  and  it  will  be  | 
finished.  I 

3.  To  produce  a London  smoke,  add  the  liquor  of  I 
four  pounds  of  logwood  before  the  copperas  is  added,  . 
then  bring  it  to  a boil  and  run  for  one  hour,  then  cool 
and  rinse. 


DIRECTION  XLVIII.  } 

Light  Drab  on  Woollen. 

For  20  yards  or  16  pounds  of  cloth.  ^ 

1.  Prepare  a kettle  with  a sufficient  quantity  of  water,  ^ 

then  add  a bushel  of  white  ash  bark,  and  one  quarter  of  | 
a pound  of  fustic  chips  ; boil  it  for  one  hour,  then  take  1 
out  the  bark  and  fustic.  I 

2.  Now  add  as  much  w ater  as  evaporated  in  boiling, , 

then  dissolve  a handhil  of  copperas  in  some  of  the  hot  \ 
liquor  by  itself,  and  add  a part  of  it  to  the  dye,  mix  it  ■ 
well  and  bring  it  to  a boil,  then  run  your  cloth  for  about  | 
half  an  hour.  It  is  now  to  be  taken  out  quick  and  j 
aired.  i 

3.  If  you  wish  the  color  darker,  add  a little  more  of 

the  copperas  liquor  to  the  dye,  and  mix  it  well,  then 
run  the  cloth  until  the  shade  is  to  your  mind.  It  is  then  i 
to  be  taken  out,  aired,  and  rinsed.  , 


DIRECTION  XLIX. 

To  dge  a Drab  color  on  Woollen,  ( with  niitgalls.) 

1.  Prepare  a kettle  w ith  a sufficient  quantity  of  >va* 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


183 


ter,  bring  it  to  a scalding  heat  and  wet  your  cloth,  then 
take  it  up  and  let  it  drain. 

2.  In  the  next  place  add  five  table  spoonfulls  of  fine- 
ly pounded  nutgalls,  and  boil  for  half  an  hour  ; then  en- 
ter the  cloth  and  run  while  boiling,  for  half  an  hour  ; it 
is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  aired. 

3.  Now  add  to  the  dye  half  a table  spoonfull  of  al- 
lum  ; let  it  boil  a few  minutes,  then  skim  off  the  filth 
that  rises  at  the  top.  Run  your  doth  again  for  half  an 
hour,  then  take  out  and  air.  Add  a tea  spoonfull  of 
copperas,  then  run  again  until  the  color  suits  your  mind, 
then  air  and  rinse. 


DIRFXTION  L. 

Silver  Gray  on  JFooIlen. 

To  dye  one  pound  of  cloth  or  yarn  it  will  require  tlie 
following  articles. 

Half  an  ounce  of  copperas. 

Half  an  ounce  cream  of  tartar. 

3 ounces  of  logwood, 

2 ounces  of  sumac. 

Use  tlie  same  proportions  to  dye  any  number  of 
pounds. 

1.  Prepare  a kettle  with  about  4 gallons  of  water, 
then  take  t'a'o  ounces  of  the  shoots  and  leaves  of  sumae 
tliat  are  cured  and  cut  up  fine,  and  three  ounces  of  log- 
V.  ood  chips ; put  them  loosely  into  a tliin  coarse  bag 
and  boil  it  for  about  one  hour,  then  take  the  bag  out. 

2.  add  to  the  dye  half  an  ormce  cream  of  tar- 
tar, then  bring  it  to  a boil,  and  put  in  the  woollen  for 
one  hour:  it  is  then  to  be  taken  out  and  aired. 

3.  In  the  next  place  refresh  the  dye  with  water,  then 
add  to  it  half  an  ounce  of  copperas ; when  it  is  dissolved 
biing  the  d}  e to  a moderate  boil,  then  enter  the  wool- 

% 


1-84 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


len  and  move  it  round  for  twenty  minutes;  it  is  then  to 
be  taken  out,  aired,  and  rinsed. 


DIRECTION  LI. 

Indigo  Blue  on  TFool  or  Linen,  ( as  practiced  in  many 
families.) 

1.  To  color  6 pounds  of  wool,  or  5 pounds  of  linen 
yarn,  put  two  pailsfull  of  chaniL'crlye  into  a clean  tub, 
then  dissolv  e 4 ounces  of  potasli,  (or  instead  of  it  6 
ounces  of  peailash)  in  one  quart  of  hot  water;  put  this 
in  the  tub,  mix  it  and  let  it  stand  for  six  days.  Then 
pour  off  the  clear  part  into  a kettle,  until  you  come  to 
the  settlings.  The  settlings  w ill  now  be  thrown  away, 
and  the  tul^  rinsed;  you  will  then  pour  the  clear  liquor 
back  into  the  tub  again. 

2.  Take  4 ounces  of  indigo,  and  two  ounces  of  mad- 
der, ]^ut  them  into  a thin  bag,  and  put  it  in  the  tub, 
rubbing  it  well  4 or  5 times  in  the  course  of  the  day. 
You  w'ill  now  put  the  yarn  or  w^ool  under  the  dye  for  6 
hours,  then  take  it  out,  w ring  and  air  it.  If  it  is  not 
dark  enough  put  it  in  again  and  proceed  as  before,  un- 
til it  is  to  your  mind. 

N.  E.  When  the  dye  grows  w'eak,  add  more  dye 
stuff  and  let  the  proportion  be  the  same  as  at  first  di- 
rected, although  the  quantity  used  w ill  not  be  as  much. 
Spanish  Flote,  or.  best  Bengal  Indigo,  is  to  be  preferred 
for  this  dve. 


DESCRIPTION 


OF 

DYE-WOODS  AND  DRUGS. 


NUTGALLS. — Of  the  gall  nut  there  are  different  kinds; 
-some  inclining  to  white,  some  ash-colored,  and  others  to  a blue- 
ish  cast.  They  also  differ  in  size  and  are  either  round  or  irregu- 
lar, lieavy  or  Hglit,  smooth  or  knotted.  Those  which  are  small, 
knotted  and  heavy  and  of  a dark  color  are  esteemed  the  best; 
they  are  of  a very  astringent  nature,  and  of  great  use  in  dyeing 
black,  grays,  &c.  on  wool,  silk  and  cotton.  Galls  are  used  to 
great  advantage  as  a basis  in  the  preparation  of  many  colors,  as 
the  astringent  quality  wliich  they  possess  becomes  affixed  to  the 
body  of  the  stuffs  ; and  w'hen  dipped  in  the  dye,  the  coloring 
matter  immediately  adheres  to  it. 

Sumac  will  supply  the  place  of  galls,  in  dyeing  various  colors, 
if  used  in  a sufficient  quantity  to  produce  a liquor  of  an  equal 
strength. 

MADDER. — This  is  an  important  and  valuable  plant;  which 
is  used  in  dyeing  red,  cinnamon,  &c.  The  common,  or  crop 
madder  is  cultivatefl  among  the  Dutch  in  Zealand,  where  it  is  pre- 
pared and  gi'ound  for  exportation.  The  plant  has  rough  narrow 
leaves,  set  round  the  joints  ef  the  Stem  in  the  form  of  a star. — 
The  root  which  is  the  only  part  made  use  of,  is  long  and  slender, 
of  a red  color,  both  on  the  outside  and  within,  excepting  a whi- 
tish pith  that  runs  througli  the  middle  of  it.  The  only  precau- 
tion in  selecting  the  common  ground  madder,  is  that  if  should  ap- 
pear of  a brigl\t  yellowish  red-brown,  and  should  smell  sweet  and 
fresh. 

The  madder  plant  may  be  cultivated  in  many  parts  of  the  U- 
nited  States  to  advantage.  It  is  three  years  aftei-  the  first  root  is 
set  in  the  ground,  before  it  comes  to  maturity;  they  may  be  pla- 
ced 4 feet  apartin  the  first  setting  them  in  the  ground,  arid  should 
be  hoed  the  first  year  to  keep  them  clear  from  weeds.  If  they 
are  planted  on  a rich  deep  soil,  which  is  much  the  best,  the  roots 
will  extend  to  the  depth  of  two  feet  or  more,  and  yield  more  a- 
bundantly  than  almost  any  other  vegetable.  The  time  of  taking 
them  out  of  the  ground  is  in  the  months  of  September  and  Oc- 
tober, they  are  then  carefully  assorted  and  washed  in  clean  cold 


S 


186 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


water  and  drjed  by  a stove  heat,  ready  for  pounding.  The'first 
pounding  separates  and  brings  into  the  form  of  a powder  the 
smallest  fibres  of  the  roots,  with  the  skin  or  husk  of  the  larger 
ones,  and  any  earth  which  may  have  been  left  adhering  thereto. 
This  powder  being  sifted,  is  then  packed  separately  in  casks  and 
sold  at  a low  price  and  used  foi-  cheap  dark  colors. 

A second  pounding  separates  about  one  third  of  the  remaining 
part  of  the  larger  roots,  and  this  being  sifted  and  jiacked  sepa- 
rately, is  called  ordinary  powder.  The  tliird  and  last  pounding 
comprehends  the  residue  and  bright  part  of  the  roots ; this  is 
called  crop  madder,  Avhieh  produces  the  best  of  red?.  This  kind 
of  madder  is  as  yet  rather  scarce  in  this  country. 

Madder  gives  to  wmollen  cloth,  prepared  with  allum  and  tartar, 
the  most  durable  of  all  reds,  though  not  so  bright  as  the  coclii-  * 
neal  scarlet ; yet  the  red  of  madder  has  this  important  advan- 
tage, by  enduring  to  be  washed  with  soap,  w ithout  producing  any 
material  cliange  of  color;  w'hereas  the  cochineal  scarlet  by  the 
same  means  used,  becomes  tarnished. 

Those  who  dye  the  best  madder  red,  are  very  careful  to  keep 
the  lic[Uor  of  a heat  considerably  below  that  of  boiling,  encreasing 
the  fire  towards  the  end,  so  that  it  may  boil  only  a minute  ort\yo 
just  before  tlie  woollen  is  taken  out.  Should  the  liquor  be  sufier- 
ed  to  boil  for  a long  time,  it  W'ould  extract  the  light  brown  i 
matter  contained  in  madder,  which  would  cliange  it  to  a dull  f 
dark  red. 

NICARAGUA. — This  wood  is  considerably  used  foi-  dyeing 
cheap  reds,  & otlier  colors  throughout  this  country  ? it  is  almost  as 
red  and  heavy  as  the  true  Brazil-wmod,  but  w ill  not  generally  af- 
ford half  as  much  color.  Nicaragua  dilfers  much  in  qtiality,  for 
some  of  it  wdll  dye  twice  as  much  as  others.  The  best  kind  grow  s 
near  Santa  Mai'tlia,  in  South-America ; tliat  which  is  the  soundest 
and  appears  of  a yellowish  red,  on  cutting  it,  is  generally  allowed  j 
to  be  of  a good  quality.  j 

BRAZIL,  OR  RED  WOOD. — Tliis  kind  of  dye-wood  isim-  <1 
ported  from  different  parts  of  South-America  and  Japan  ; it  va- 
ries  much  in  quality  from  having  been  more  or  less  exposed  to 
air.  A small  quantity  of  this  w'ood  is  sometimes  used  to  advan-  | 
tage  in  finishing  madder  reds,  or  in  place  of  cochineal  in  dyeing  || 
cheap  scarlets, 

CAMWOOD. — This  wood  affords  a coloring  matter  that  is 
permanent,  wJien  the  dye  is  imparted  to  woollen  and  withstands  \ 
the  effects  of  air  and  commoji  acids,  much  better  than  most  other- 
dye-woods. 

The  appearance  of  this  wood  on  first  splitting  it,  is  of  a bright  ; 
redish  orange,  and  has  a pungent  smell,  but  after  it  has  been  ex.- 
posed  to  the  air  the  color  changes  to  a dull  red.  In  {rreparing  it  J 

I 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


18^ 


for  ^n^selLting  that  ground 

SClSoF  S“rr*‘y  p,..e.oi  T,.at  w,.cU  « of  a 

souseful  inalteimgtue  but  on  being  united 

self.produced  fiom  this  I color,  not  easily 

Avith  other  materials  it  a™*  this  reason,  together 

obtained  with  other  woods  01  ^ 1 desirable,  especially 

withitslow  price,  the  use  «ff,^VbX^rsoft  and  velvet  hue.  This 

from  itsbcmg  capable  of  for  dyeing,  should 

and  other  c ye  woods  when^  event  the  chips  sticking  to 

be  enclosed  in  a thin  co  . o ‘ ^ only  iniure  the  qual- 

the  cloth  ; as  that  in  many  cas  sw  the  streW 

ity  oi  tlie  cloth,  but  cion  , ]j-  ^ the  cloth  was  entered  in  the 
of  the  chips  w.as  not  f fogs  c^  from  the  bark, 

dye.  This  wood  comes  ovei  and  of  a red  color. 

fustic.  Thr  j^dies  and  South-Amenca,  and  comes 

which  ,*iphur  color,  which  it  readily  ^vys  out. 

in  logs , It  IS  ot  a tie  p P extensively  used  in  dye- 

both  to  spirits  and  w atei.  ^ also  in  many  other  colors. 

fog  yellow,  ®gjXre  more  permanent  by  using  sumac 

Sit  The  ^ free  from  sap  and 

P^'w^T^'^'^This  plant  is  raised  in  great  quantities  in  England 
"MS  Jna  S-oM-'L  itL  alia,  aal  a 

the  curcuma  and  afforj  a 

rich  cobr,  and  surpasses  ^ 

?o!rrsTanfod  in  dyeing  some  colors  on 

''^PASTEL,  OR  WOAD.-This  plant  is  distinguished  by  two 


188 


MANUFACTURER'S  ASSISTANT. 


oe  ripe  bj  its  fallino-down  and  **  known  to- 
ed, and  the  ground^ cleared  ^ it  is  thengather- 

peated  each  fror  The  carefully  re- 

a stream,  and  then  driedl  sneedd v cut  down,is  washed ia 
ried  to  the  mill  to  be  grind  and  % 
formed  into  heaps  anTaflc  ^ It  is  then 

kands  and  feet,  if  is  beat  down  Li  P^^t®  well  with  the 

An  ontwarcl  cru  t soon  flL  ™,,i  “T!'' 

it  cracks. great  care  m«stbTt.ril?  t >vhen 

yf  a fortnlh,  thei  hZ  .re‘l“ ' , AUhe  end 

and  well  mixed.  It 


of  a fortni^huhellilps  al'llelt”:?! 

in  tl-  sun. 


Wncci  , . . nails  and  dried  in  the  sun 

aide, able  “f  "»- 

«r  Woarl  L a dye “f’al  nrfset  “ f of  bn/tness.  The  use 
Cliicfly  employe.Uor  the  nwnose  abantToned,  and  is  notv 

wollen.  ‘orlate  sonre  d?e  rarri„dS',"g  “.T  ‘'y'  f"'- 
cheap  veirefables  the 0-rmv+ltrr  inclined  to  believe  that  other 

of  m' oarT  in  Sat  res~c;  «>e  place 

brought  from  Soilth  America  ' ^ of  dry  paste 

in  general,  but  is  not  permanent 

and  nmre  pure 

aa  thatof  rSou  Irdyeilr' Ttls  ?“•"  “1  <l™% 

sdk  and  sometimes  for  cotton.  ‘ ™'‘P“*iT  employed  for  dyeing 

-lyeiSf  "f  “H 

t easoL'indigo  C ll'ch^lr  aid"yetrpl",f  f ' , 

ous  descriptions  of  goods  that  renniVo  / P*^operly  for  dying  vari- 

W is  cultivated  anrfmaLttS  „ SouAa'"  '"''i' 

Indies,  Isle  of  France  ulisiana  Pn  ? ^^orica,  the  Fast- 
is brought  from  Benll-  Ca'-olinas,  &c.  The  best 

square.  * nd  comes  in  pieces  about  two  inches 

first  qllity^l^olTilala^S  generally  the  best.  The 

will  produce  as  fine  a™oll  as  S ^‘’i  and 

great  a quantity  of  coloring  matter! 

Orleans  and  of  France,  St.  Domingo,  New- 

greater  projiirtion  of  lo  s all  L ""  « 

fiefbre  mentioned;  Si' ^ 


MVNUFACTURBll’S  ASSISTANT,  189 

,„a,o»T.icedW„eso„cotto.a„d  woollen,  but  « 

any  kind  of  mdigo  i 'VA r rather  fry  out  like  wax,  and  a 

the  indigo  is  good,  it  wil  ^j^^e  will  also 

beautiful  crimson  l!hitTsubstance  remain  like  ashes.— 

2c‘:  wm  !s;  aod^ 

■''te'iso  is  k,.o.™  "iri 

FSyeTugy«u^^^^^^^ 

'’''CWIMNEAL.-This  Insect  affords  and  ™loa- 

ble  coloring  matter,  f^diii^  upon  the  red  juices  of 

of  this  insectare  f '“'f will  «taln  .ts 
the  prickly  pear  of  South  A,  ^ 

properties  a great  numbe  -7  ‘ -g’n-ood,  and  has  been  well  pre- 
bottle stoppel  tight.  Tba  1 inclining  to  purple  : that 

K«ch  « §y  ia  water,  appears  of  a dull  crnuson 

''“?r?SSdof,u^j^pr^^^^^^^ 

wall  in  England,  which  7 ‘ ^n  i dissolving  it 

used  in  dyeing  scarlet,  cui  » > ^ It  has  been  found  necessary  to 

in  spirits  of  nftre  »f, ^I  'd  ,S.  is  done  bj  melting 
gr.ain  the  tin  before  it  can  ■ ? water  which  separates  it 

Ld  poring  it  from  » f '^Xn ^ai-d  s'tale 
intosinad  pie^  li,|Uo?  made  by  d.stil- 

lA?7fw  nte  with  calcined  ritrlol,  or  rectiffed  oil  ot  vitriol 

‘"Irol'vlWop^This 

among  Other  uses  in  dj  emg,  ^ J and  sometimes  for 

SXif  u fSdt  aT  water,  of  a bright  color,  and 

weigh  abour^  oM  with  soot,,  a 

SALAMONIAC.  ■_  Pottle  Some  chymists  imitate 

little  sea-salt,  and  the  urine  of  caU  . ^ with  which 

it  by  adding  one  soot.  Should  it  accidentally 

that  respect  wdththe  tincture  of  gal.s. 
s 2 


190 


MANUFACTURER'S  ASSISTANT. 


SPIRITS  OF  SAT  T Ti  u • 

«atr“  ‘™  ™«t- 

irj.terials  fur  if,  allrnn,  but  affords  the 

it  IS  a fossil  salt  or  wbfto  mineral  substanis! 

_wa&I)ing  it  with  water  whirli  h ’ ’ from  the  earth  bv 

IS  afterwards  boiled  ami  evLoS'"' 

S ^ration  for  man/colors  and  ^ 

sfnffs,  wl'.ether  of  a vee-etahL  sa  r’  ° . '^•«iost  all  kinds  of 

COPPERAS  OR  P|SVlTRinV"‘"P*  production  ' 
substance  extracted  from  iron  ^ 

paration  for  black  and  other  da,  t i ^ mordant  or  pre- 

nous  shades,  wherein  iruslA  f ' " ’ ‘^arkenin/vL 

mac,  alder  bark,  n^aiPtc  P "^Sf^^Wes,  such  a!  lu 
rust,  and  kept  in  neither  a Copperas  should  be  free  Lm 

BLUE  VITRIOL.— This  iimmPP-'-^  exposed  situation. 

VERl)iGR?s“JLTr''‘''"'"^^^^^^ 

S'npes  or  otiiW  TOctabl^acU 

ses  It  to  dissolve  slowlj.  ^ ® copper,  which  cau- 

licularl/Ti'TotrV'artrof  Fraic?"  iH^ ^ 

lors  especiallf  bfck.  djeing  s^omfco- 

ARGOL,  Or  CREAM  OF  TARTAR  'ru- 

ty  nature  into  a hard  and  almost  ston^Jl’'"^'’!?  formed 

table  juice  after  fermentation  Tu”^  sepaiation,  from  a vege- 
duce  of  wine,  beino-  found  m la  ^ ^ common  tartar  is  the  nro 
and  sides  of  casks^  in  which  that 

1 ns  material  is  useful  in  fixiim‘  man^  kept.— 

when  usedwirhallum,  prevents  the  InH  r^’®  ^''o^Pen,  and 

ming  into  chrjstals.  ^ P™m  congealing  or  for- 

POT  & PEARI.ASH  r>  i 1 • 

'Vhich  is  made  bj  burning  vei^tables^to'’^’'^'^  able  alkali, 

‘='-^P«"^t^dbyboiliVgunti[te 

aproSsSf'  baking'it  taL“'ZT‘“''‘  “"'rl'f 

Of  Barks  and  Plants  nsefid  in  Dyeina. 

“^LDER,  bark  — — T’l  * k 1 • ^ 

America,  except  in  the  sLirdome”  tic  *dTe‘  7t"^ 

viuesuc  aje.  ft  po.ssesses  a co- 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


il)l 


loving  matter,  and  when  applied  to  cotton  or  wool,  previously 
prepared,  in  a solution  of  allum  will  produce  a lasting  brownish 
yellow.  With  a preparation  of  copperas  and  allum,  and  after- 
wards dipped  in  a strong  liquor  extracted  from  the  bark,  it  will 
produce  a brown,  and  by  being  prepared  with  copperas  only,  will 
assist  to  produce  a black.  Alder  bark  may  be  considered  nearly 
as  valuable  in  assisting  to  form  a black  as  sumac. 

ARSMART. — This  weed  grows  in  plenty  in  many  parts  of 
the  United  States,  and  is  generally  found  at  the  sides  of  roads 
and  fences.  This  plant  alfords  a yellow  dye  that  is  durable, 
when  applied  to  woollen,  and  more  permanent  than  fustic  when 
imparted  to  cotton.  It  is  found  necessary  in  preparing  it  for  dye- 
ing yellow,  to  use  as  much  of  it  as  can  be  crowded  under  the  wa- 
ter, and  allow  it  to  soak  in  a warm  place  for  three  or  four  days  ; 
afterwards  it  must  be  brought  to  a scalding  heat.  Woollen  is 
first  prepared  by  boiling  it  one  hour  in  allum  water,  using  4 oun- 
ces of  allum  to  a pound  of  woollen,  then  dipped  in  the  yellow 
dye.  Cotton  or  linen  ai  e to  be  first  soaked  in  the  same  propor- 
tion of  allum  and  water  (only  warm)  over  night,  then  wrung  and 
dipped  in  the  yellow  dye,  at  little  less  than  a scalding  heat. 

BUTTERNUT  BARK.— This  bark  is  esteemed  from  its  af- 
fording a durable  color,  and  a great  variety  of  shades.  The  co- 
loring matter  is  extracted  to  the  best  advantage,  by  soaking  the 
bark  in  water  a few  hours  before  you  begin  to  color:  during 
which  time  the  water  should  not  be  suft’ered  to  get  hot.  Enter 
the  woollen  when  the  liquor  is  warm,  (having  the  bark  in  the  ket- 
tle) keep  a gentle  fire  under  it,  and  bring  it  slowly  to  a scalding 
heat,  airing  it  once  in  half  an  liour.  You  will  proceed  to  dip 
and  air  in  this  manner,  until  the  strength  of  the  bark  is  exhaust- 
ed ; observing  not  to  suffer  the  liquor  to  boil,  as  that  would  in- 
jure the  color.  By  using  a great  proportion  of  bark,  and  adding 
copperas  to  the  liquor,  after  the  strength  of  the  bark  is  extract- 
ed, and  the  bark  taken  out  of  the  dye,  you  may  obtain  a very 
handsome  dark  brown,  equal  to  a British  mud.  The  bark  is  best 
when  used  gieen.  To  dye  cotton  with  this  bark,  the  cotton  is 
first  prepared  in  allum,  using  4 ounces  to  the  pound,  and  only  as 
much  water  as  will  cover  the  cotton,  being  as  w'arm  as  you  can 
bear  the  hand  in  it.  I^et  it  soak  over  night,  then  wring  it  out  and 
dip  in  the  bark  dye  until  it  suits  your  mind. 

BIRCH  bare. — The  bark  of  the  black  birch,  dyes  a nan- 
keen color  en  cotton  and  linen  with  an  allum  preparation.  Af- 
ter boiling  the  bark  it  should  be  strained,  and  suffered  to  cool  so 
that  you  can  bear  the  liand  in  it,  then  dip  the  cotton  till  the  co- 
lor suits. 

HEMLOCK  BARK. — This  bark  affords  a coloring  matter, 
which  with  an  allum  preparation  produces  a durable  light  red- 


192 


iMANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


dish  brown  on  wool,  when  the  dye  is  made  strong,  and  a nankeen 
color  on  cotton,  but  not  very  permanent  on  the  latter. , When 
the  wool  or  cotton  is  prepared  with  copperas,  it  produces  dark 
drab  and  slate  colors. 

MAPLE  BARK.' — The  bark  of  the  soft  maple  produces  a du- 
rable cinnamon  color  on  wool,  and  also  on  cotton,  by  first  boiling 
the  woollen  in  allum  water  for  one  hour,  then  boil  up  a separate 
and  strong  dye  of  the  bark  and  dip  it.  Cotton  is  to  be  first  soak- 
ed in  warm  allum  water  several  hours,  then  handled  in  the  bark 
dye,  at  a little  less  than  a scalding  heat.  When  the  woollen  or 
cotton  is  prepared  in  copperas  liquor,  it  produces  slate  colors,  light 
or  dark,  according  to  the  strength  of  the  preparation  and  dye  li- 
quor. 

WALNUT,  OR  HICKORY  BARK. — Tliis  bark  produces  a 
bright  yellow  and  far  more  durable  than  that  of  fustic,  either 
when  applied  to  cotton  or  wool.  W’’oollen  is  prepared  for  cl3'e- 
ingby  boiling  it  onekour  in  allum  water,  using  4 ounces  of  allum 
to  a pound  of  wool.  In  the  next  place,  make  a strong  dye  of 
the  bark  and  dip  the  woollen  until  it  is  to  your  mind. 

Cotton  is  dyed  by  handling  it  in  allum  water  of  the  same 
strength,  but  only  warm  : then  let  it  soak  in  it  over  night.  It  is 
then  to  be  wrung  and  dipped  in  the  dj^e  until  it  suits.  The  dye 
for  woollen  is  to  be  neai  ly  boiling  hot,  but  for  cotton  only  as 
warm  as  the  hand  can  be  borne  in  at  the  time  of  dipping  it. 

1^  N.  B.-  By  dyeing  cotton  or  linen,  a light  indigo  blue  first,  then 
alluming  it,  and  afterwards  dipping  it  in  the  walnut  bark  dye  with 
a little  blue  vitriol,  you  will  obtain  a green. 

YELLOW  OAK  BARK. — This  species  of  bark  affords  a 
more  durable  yellow  on  cotton,  linen  or  woollen  than  any  other 
native  plant,  bark  or  root  that  has  yet  been  discovered  in  theU. 
States.  The  bark  appears  to  consist  of  three  coats,  viz : The 
outside  coat  which  age  hardens  and  becomes  almost  black — the 
middle  coat,  in  which  the  coloring  matter  mostly  resides,  is  of  a 
yellow  color.  The  inside  part  is  rather  hard  and  fibrous,  and 
therefore  does  not  contain  much  coloring  mattei’. 

The  outside  coat  of  this  bark,  affords  a coloring  matter  but  is 
of  a yellowish  brown,  therefore  it  must  be  separated  and  taken 
off  by  shaving,  and  thrown  away.  The  remainder  must  be  dried 
and  ground,  which  will  form  it  partly  into  powder,  and  the  rest 
into  stringy  fibres.  The  bark  thus  prepared,  will  yield  far  more 
coloring  matter  than  either  fustic  or  weld.  In  trade  and  com- 
merce, this  bark  is  called  Quercitron,  and  is  now  sold  in  New- 
York  for  exportation,  from  45  to  60  dollars  per  ton.  To  pro- 
duce a good  color  with  the  bark,  it  should  not  be  boiled,  but  first 
steeped  in  cold  water,  afterwards  the  strength  is  to  be  extracted 
at  a scalding  heat.  The  metliod  of  dyeing  cotton  and  woollen 


195 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 

with  this  bark,  in  other  respects  is  the  same  as  has  been  stated 
for  dyeing  yellow  with  hickory  bark. 

SUMAC. — The  common  sumac  is  a natural  production  of  the 
United  States,  the  stalks  of  which  afford  a yellow  dye,  with  an 
allum  preparation.  The  shoots  and  leaves  have  another  kind  ot 
coloring  matter  much  like  that  of  nutgalls,  which  renders  it  valu- 
able in  dyeing  cotton  and  woollen  drab  and  slate  colors.  Of 
late  it  is  much  used  in  dyeing  black  and  many  other  colors.  Su- 
mac should  be  cut  in  the  last  part  of  summer,  or  in  the  month  of 
September,  taking  that  of  only  one  season’s  growth : it  should 
then  be  dried  like  hay  and  packed  away.  Before  it  is  used,  it  should 
be  cut  up  fine  or  ground,u$ingthe  shoots  and  leaves  mixed  togeth- 
er. After  boiling  sumac  for  dyeing,  the  liquor  should  be  strained 
before  the  stuffs  are  dipped. 

PEACH  LEAVES.— It  is  found  that  the  leaves  of  the  peach 
tree  afford  a yellow  color  more  durable  than  that  of  fustic.  These 
leaves  are  not  much  used,  except  in  the  small  domestic  dye.  The 
leaves  are  gathered  and  used  while  green.  The  color  is  extract- 
ed and  the  stuffs  dyed  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  in  the  de- 
scription of  arsmart. 

LOMBARDY  POPLAR.— The  bark  and  shoots  of  this  tree 
produce  a tolerable  good  yellow  on  woollen,  where  the  dye  is 
made  very  strong.  It  requires  an  allum  preparation  and  is  man- 
aged the  same  in  dyeing  as  has  been  mentioned  for  walnut  or 
hickory  bark. 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 


To  remove  Iron  Molds  from  Cotton  or  Linen. 

Take  an  earthen  vessel,  pour  into  it  boiling  water, 
then  spread  the  stained  parts  of  your  cloth  over  it,  let  it 
remain  until  well  penetrated  with  the  steam,  then  rub 
on  the  places  sorrel  juice  mixed  with  salt  until  it  is  well 
soaked.  Such  cloths  washed  afterwards  in  common 
lye,  will  be  made  free  from  spots  of  mold. 

, ^ 

To  itemove  Carriage  Wheel  Grease  from  Woollen 

Cloth. 

To  effect  this,  the  spots  of  grease  must  be  first  rub- 
bed with  fresh  butter,  then  lay  on  two  or  three  strips  of 
blotting  paper  and  apply  a hot  fiat  iron  to  it ; this  will 
entirely  take  out  the  spots. 


To  restore  a Spoiled  W ine. 

Draw  the  wine  off  from  its  own  lees  and  put  it  on 
the  lees  of  good  wine,  then  pulverise  four  or  five  nut- 
megs, with  as  many  dry  oran^^e  peels,  add  this  mixture 
to  the  wine,  stop  the  cask  tight  and  let  it  ferment  three 
weeks ; after  this  time  the  w ine  will  be  found  as  good 
as  ever. 


To  Clarify  Wme. 

Take  2 quarts  of  boiling  milk,  skim  it  well  and  w hile 
hot  pour  it  into  the  cask. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT.  19 J 

A method  to  Soften  Horn  so  tlmt  it  may  be  cast  in  any 

shape. 

Make  a very  strong  lye  with  equal  parts  of  <iuick 
lime  and  pearlash ; rasp  the  horn  and  put  the  raspings 
in  the  lye;  this  mixture  will  soon  become  a paste,  then 
add  whatever  color  you  choose,  and  it  is  ready  for  moul- 
ding in  any  shape.  This  composition  should  remain 
in  Sie  moulds  two  or  three  days,  then  boil  them  in  a li- 
quor made  of  allum  and  salt  petre  first ; then  boil  them 
.again  in  nut  oil. 


To  make  Ivory  Sojt. 

Take  2 ounces  of  spirits  of  nitre,  and  3 gills  of  soft 
sprino-  water,  mix  them  together  and  soak  your  ivory 
in  it  for  3 or  4 days,  and  it  will  be  so  soft  as  to  receive 
impression  from  the  fingers. 


Method  of  Staimng  or  Tinging  Bones  or  Ivory,  Red, 
(previously  made  soft.) 

Boil  the  shreds  of  scarlet  cloth  in  water ; when  it 
begins  to  boil  thro’.v  in  4 ounces  of  ashes,  made  from 
Aro-ol.or  the  dregs  of  wine,  which  will  exti'act  the  col- 
or-then throw  in  a little  allum  to  clear  it : then  strain 
the  liquor  through  a linen  cloth.  Steep  the  bone  or 
i^^ory  in  this  liquor.  Should  you  wish  white  spots  to 
be  left  on  them  cover  the  places  with  wax. 


A method  to  take  Oil  Stains  from  Paper. 

Books  and  manuscripts  are  sometimes  defaced  by 
accidental  stains  with  oil ; to  remove  such  blemishes, 
bum  sheep’s  bones  and  reduce  them  to  a fine  powder, 
lay  a quantity  of  tliis  powder  chi  each  side  of  the  stain, 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


Wd 

place  it  between  two  sheets  of  white  paper,  submit  it  to 
a press  for  twelve  hours.  If  the  spots  do  not  disap- 
pear, repeat  the  same. 


7b  BoU  Linseed  Oil  for  Painting. 

F or  one  gallon  of  oil  add  one  ounce  of  sugar  of  lead, 
and  one  ounce  of  uiiite  vitriol,  which  must  be  added 
only  I part  at  a time.  Boil  gently  one  hour,  during 
which  time  it  is  to  be  stirred,  then  let  it  stand  and  settle 
and  turn  off'  only  the  clear  part. 


To  Prepare  Oil  for  Gilding. 

Take  linseed  oil  that  has  been  boiled  in  the  common 
-way,  put  it  in  a glass  bottle,  hang  it  in  the  sun  until  it 
turns  w hite  and  clear,  which  will  be  in  about  a week, 
in  warm  weather.  Then  mix  it  with  some  stone  yel- 
low, grind  it  fine  and  of  the  same  thickness  as  com- 
mon paint.  Lay  tvA  o coats  in  exactly  the  form  you 
wish  to  have  the  gold  lay  : let  it  dry  only  tmtil  it  has 
become  a little  sticky,  then  cut  the  leaf  much  in  the 
form  you  wish  to  lay  it,  then  take  off  the  upper  paper 
from  the  leaf,  take  the  leaf  with  the  other  paper,  then 
take  off  the  j>aper  and  brush  it  over  with  a small  ball 
made  of  cotton  wool. 


To  make  an  Od  Varnish. 

Take  one  quart  of  linseed  oil,  add  3 ounces  of  lith- 
arge, 1 ounce  of  burnt  umber  and  half  an  ounce  sugar 
of  lead,  boil  it  moderately  until  it  settles  clear,  stirring 
it  in  the  mean  time.  While  cooling,  add  1 ounce  of 
white  vitriol ; A\  hen  cold  strain  it  off  and  put  it  in  a 
glass  bottle,  stop  it  with  a cork  and  hang  it  up  witli  a 


MANOTACTURER’S  ASSISTANT.  19/ 

'vvire  hole  in  the  cork  ; then  let  it  hang  until  it  is  white 
and  clear. 

Apply  this  A'arnish  to  paint  that  is  dry  and  let  the  sun 
come  to  it  if  convenient. 


To  make  a Black  Varnish. 

Take  gum-lac  4 ounces,  sanderak  and  rosin  1 ounce 
each,  pulverize  them  separately,  'dissolve  the  rosin  over 
a fire  in  a sufficient  quantity  of  spirit  of  wine,  then  add 
tlie  sanderak  to  it ; as  soon  as  it  is  dissolved  add  the  pow- 
der of  gum-lac  and  stir  it  until  it  is  well  melted  and 
mixed  together.  It  is  then  to  be  strained  while  w arm 
tlirough  a linen  cloth.  The  black  color  is  made  by  ad- 
ding two  drams  of  ivory  black  to  every  two  ounces  of 
the  other. 


Of  the fme  tortoise  shell  japan  ground,  produced  by  means 
of  heat. 

The  best  kind  of  tortoise  shell  groimd  produced  by 
heat  is  not  less  valuable  for  its  great  hardness,  and  en- 
during to  be  made  hotter  than  boiling  water  without 
damage,  than  for  its  beautiful  appearance.  It  is  to  be 
made  by  means  of  a varnish  prepared  in  the  following 
manner. 

“Take  of  good  linseed  oil  one  gallon,  and  of  umber 
half  a pound.  Boil  them  together  till  the  oil  becomes 
very  brovm  and  thick  ; strain  it  then  through  a coarse 
cloth,  and  set  it  again  to  boil ; in  which  state  it  must 
be  continued  till  it  acquires  a pitchy  consistence,  when 
it  will  be, fit  for  use.” 

Having  prepared  thus  the  varnish,  clean  well  the  iron 
or  cop])er-plate,  or  otlier  piece  which  is  to  be  jappan- 
ned  ; and  then  lay  vermillion  tempered  with  shell-lac 
varnish,  or  vvitli.  diying  oil  diluted  with  oil  of  turpen- 
tine very  tiiinly,  on  tlie  places  intended  to  imitate  the 

T *■ 


198 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


more  transparent  parts  of  the  tortoise  shell.  When  the 
vermilion  is  dry,  brush  over  the  whole  with  the  black 
varnish  tempered  to  a due  consistence  with  oil  of  tur- 
pentine ; and  when  it  is  set  and  firm,  put  the  w^ork  in- 
to a stove,  where  it  may  underj^o  a very  strong  heat, 
and  must  be  continued  a considerable  time,  if  even 
three  rveeks  or  a month,  it  will  be  the  better. 


Of  staining  horn  to  imitate  tortoise  shell. 

The  horn  to  be  stained  must  be  first  pressed  into 
proper  plates,  or  scales,  or  other  flat  form.  The  fol- 
lowing mixture  must  then  be  prepared. 

“ Take  of  quicklime  two  parts,  and  of  litharge  one, 
and  temper  them  to  the  consistence  of  a soft  paste  with 
soap  lye.” 

Put  this  paste  over  all  the  parts  of  the  hom,  except 
such  as  are  proper  to  be  left  transparent,  in  order  to  the 
greater  resemblance  of  the  tortoise  shell.  The  horn 
must  then  remain  thus  covered  \vith  the  paste  till  it  be 
thoroughly  dry  : when  the  paste  being  brushed  off,  the  1 
horn  will  be  found  partly  opake,  and  partly  transparent, 
in  the  manner  of  tortoise  shell,  and  when  put  over  a 
foil,  of  the  kind  of  latten  called  assidue,  will  be  scarcely 
distinguishable  from  it.  It  requires  some  degree  of  fan- 
cy and  judgment,  to  dispose  of  the  paste  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  form  a variety  of  transparent  parts  of  dif- 
ferent magnitude  and  figure,  to  look  like  the  effect  of 
nature ; and  it  v/ill  be  an  improvement  to  add  semi-  i 
transparent  parts  : a\  hich  mav  be  done  by  mixing  whi- 
ting with  some  of  the  paste  to  weaken  its  operation  in 
particular  places  : by  which  spots  of  a reddish  brown 
will  be  produced ; that,  if  properly  interspersed,  espe- 
cially on  the  edges  of  the  dark  parts,  will  greatly  in- 
crease as  w^^ll  the  beautv  of  the  work,  as  its  similitude 
with  the  real  ’ortoise  shell. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT.  199 

Of  Gilding,  proper  for  the  Edges  of  Books  and  Paper' 

There  are  several  various  methods,  with  respect  to 
the  cemeut  used,  by  which  the  edges  of  books  or  pa- 
per may  be  gilt : as  strong  gum  water,  or  insinglass 

size,  or  glover’s  size,  may  be  employed  : but  as  the 
gum  water  and  weaker  sizes,  are  apt  to  nm  beyond  the 
edge  and  stick  the  leaves  together,  isinglass  melted 
A\  ith.  the  addition  of  some  common  proof  spirit  of  wine, 
and  a sixth  part  of  honey  or  sugar  candy  is  greatly  pre- 
ferable ; but  a third  of  bole  armoniac  well  powdered 
must  be  added. 

The  following  composition  has  been  likeudse  appro- 
ved of  for  this  purpose. 

“ Take  bole  armoniac  and  sugar  candy  well  powder- 
ed, each  equal  parts  ; mix  them  with  ’.vhites  of  eggs 
beaten  to  an  oily  consistence,  and  the  cement  will  be 
fit  for  use.” 

In  order  to  the  using  any  of  these  cements,  tlie  pa- 
per, whether  it  be  in  quires  or  books,  should  be  well 
cut,  and  polished  on  the  edges  to  be  gilt ; and  then 
sti'ongly  screwed  dorni  by  the  press  ; in  which  ‘itate,  it 
is  to  be  brushed  over,  first  with  a little  of  the  cement 
Avithout  the  sugar  candy,  or  the  bole  ; and  when  that 
is  dry,  either  with  the  cement  above  given,  or  any  oth- 
er solution  of  gum  or  size  with  the  proper  propor- 
tion of  the  bole : after  which  it  may  be  suffered  to 
dry,  and  then  water  polished  by  nibbing  it  with  a. fine 
linen  raff  slightlv  moistened.  It  is  then  in  a state  fit  for 
receiving  the  gold,  only  it  must  be  again  gently  mois- 
tened at  that  time,  and  the  leaves  may  then  be  laid  on, 
being  cut  according  to  the  breadth  they  are  to  cover, 
and  pressed  closely  down  by  a cotton  ball,  and  after 
the  gilding  is  thoroughly  dry  and  firm,  it  may  be  polish- 
ed in  the  manner  of  the  foregoing  kinds. 


200 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


Of  Staining  JV lod  of  Mahogany  Color. 

Mahogony  color  is  the  most  useful  of  any  stain  for 
wood  (especially  since  the  fineering  with  different  col* 
ors  is  out  of  fashion)  as  it  is  much  practised  at  present 
for  chairs  and  other  furniture  made  in  imitation  of  ma- 
hogony; which  when  Avell  managed,  may  be  brought 
to  have  a very  near  resemblance. 

This  stain  may  be  of  different  hues,  as  the  natural 
wood  varies  greatly,  being  of  all  the  intermediate  tints 
between  the  red  brown  and  purple  brown,  according  to 
the  age,  or  sometimes  the  original  nature  of  different 
pieces. 

For  the  light  red  brown,  use  a decoction  of  madder, 
or  fustic  wood,  ground  in  water  ; the  proportion  may 
be  half  a pound  of  madder  and  a quarter  of  a pound  of 
fustic,  to  a gallon  : or  in  default  of  fustic,  an  ounce  of 
the  yellow  berries  may  be  used.  This  must  be  brush- 
ed over  the  wood  to  be  stained,  while  boiling  hot,  till 
the  due  color  be  obtained ; and,  if  the  wood  be  kindly 
grained,  it  wall  have  greatly  tlie  appearance  of  nev/  ma- 
hogany. 

The  same  effect,  nearly,  may  be  produced  by  the 
tincture  of  dragon’s  blood  and  turmeric  root,  in  spirit  of 
vr  ine  ; by  increasing  or  diminishing  the  proportion  of 
each  of  \r  hich  ingredients,  tlie  brow  n stain  wiay  be  a a- 
ried  to  a more  rcd  or  yellow  cast  at  pleasure.  This 
succeeds  better  upon  wood  which  has  already  some 
tinge  of  brown,  than  upon  whiter. 

h"or  the  dark  mahogony,  take  the  infusion  of  madder 
made  as  above,  except  the  exchanging  the  fustic  for  2 
ounces  of  logw  ood,  and  wdien  the  wood  to  be  stained 
has  been  several  times  brushed  over,  and  is  again  dry, 
it  must  be  slightly  brushed  over  w ith  water  in  which 
pearlashes  have  been  dissolved,  in  the  prcporticn  of  a- 
bout  a quarter  of  an  ounce  to  a quart. 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


201 


Any  stains  of  the  intermediate  colors  may  be  made 
by  mixing  these  ingredients,  or  varying  the  proportion 
of  them. 

Where  these  stains  are  used  for  better  kind  of  work, 
the  wood  should  be  afterwards  varnished  with  three  or 
four  coats  of  seed-lac  varnish  ; but  for  coarse  wo^'k, 
the  varnish  of  resin  and  seed-lac  may  be  emplyed,'^  or 
they  may  be  only  well  rubbed  over  with  diydng  oil. 


Of  Stabling  JFood  Red. 

? 

For  a bright  red  stain  for  wood,  make  a strong  infu- 
sion of  Brazil  in  stale  urine,  or  water  impregnated  with 
pearlashes  in  the  proportion  of  an  ounce  to  a gallon  ; to 
a gallon  of  either  of  which,  the  proportion  of  Brazil 
W'ood  must  be  a pound ; w hich  being  put  to  them,  they 
must  stand  together  two  or  three  days,  often  stirring 
the  mixture.  With  this  infusion  strained  and  made 
boiling  hot,  brush  over  the  wood  to  be  stained,  till  it  ap- 
pears sti'ongly  colored  ; then,  while  yet  wet,  brush  it 
over  with  allum  water  nrade  in  the  proportion  of  tw  o 
ounces  of  allum  to  a quart  of  water. 

Fora  less  bright  red,  dissolve  an  ounce  of  dragon’s 
blood  in  a pint  of  spirit  of  w ine,  and  brush  over  the 
wood  with  the  tincture,  till  the  stain  appears  to  be  as 
strong  as  desired. 

For  a pink  or  rose  red,  add  to  a gallon  of  the  above 
infusion  of  Brazilwood  two  additional  ounces  of  the 
pearlashes  and  use  it  as  w’as  before  directed  ; but  it  is 
necessary,  in  this  case,  to  brush  the  wood  over  oftea 
with  the  allum  w afer.  By  increasing  the  proportion  of 
pearlashes,  the  red  may  be  rendered  yet  paler  ; but  itis- 
proper,  w hen  more  than  this  quantity  is  added,  to  make 
die  allum  water  stronger. 


202  MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT, 

Of  Isinglass  Glue, 

“ Isinglass  glue  is  made  by  dissolving  beaten  insin* 
glass  in  water ; and,  having  strained  it  through  a coarse 
linen  cloth,  evaporating  it  again  to  such  a consistence, 
that  being  cold  the  glue  will  be  perfectly  hard  and 
dry.” 

A great  improvement  may  be  made  in  this  glue  by 
adding  spirit  of  wine  or  brandy  to  it  after  it  is  strained, 
and  then  renewing  the  evaporation  till  it  gain  the  due 
consistence.  Some  soak  the  isinglass  in  the  spirit  or 
brandy  for  some  time  before  it  is  dissolved,  in  order  to 
make  the  glue,  and  add  no  water,  but  let  the  spirit  sup- 
ply the  place  of  it. 

This  isinglass  glue  is  far  preferable  to  common  glue 
for  nicer  purposes ; being  much  stronger  and  less  liable 
to  be  softened  either  by  heat  or  moisture. 


Preparation  of  a very  strong  Compound  Glue. 

“ Take  common  glue  in  very  small  or  thin  bits,  and 
isinglass  glue,  and  infuse  them  in  as  much  spirit  of 
wine  as  will  cover  them,  for  at  least  tw^enty-four  hours. 
Then  melt  the  w^hole  together,  and  while  they  are  over 
the  fire,  add  as  much  powdered  chalk  as  wall  render 
them  an  opake  white.” 

Composition  of  common  black  ink, 

“Take  one  gallon  of  soft  water,  and  pour  it  boiling 
hot  on  one  pound  of  powdered  galls,  put  into  a proper 
vessel.  Stop  the  mouth  of  the  vessel,  and  set  it  in  th.e 
sun  in  summer,  or  in  wnnter  where  it  may  be  warmed 
by  any  fire,  and  let  it  stand  two  or  three  days.  Add 
tlien  half  a pound  of  green  vitriol  pow^dered ; and  hav- 
ing stirred  the  mixture  well  together  wfith  a wooden 
spatula,  let  it  stand  again  for  two  or  three  days,  repeat- 


MAUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


303 


ing  the  stirring ; when  add  further  to  it  five  ounces  of 
gum  x\rabic  dissolved  in  a quart  of  boiling  water,  and 
lastly  two  ounces  of  allum  ; after  which  the  ink  should 
be  strained  through  a coarse  linen  aif)th  for  use,” 


Preparation  of  red  writing  ink. 

“ Take  of  the  raspings  of  Brazil  wood  a q uarter  of 
a pound,  and  infuse  them  two  or  three  days  in  vinegar, 
which  should  be  colorless  when  it  can  be  so  procured. 
Boil  the  infusion  then  an  hour  over  a gentle  fire,  and 
afterguards  filter  it,  while  hot,  through  paper  laid  in  an 
earthen  cullender.  Put  it  again  over  the  fire,  and  dis- 
solve in  it,  first  half  an  ounce  of  gum  Arabic ; and  af- 
terwards of  allum  and  white  sug-ar,  each  half  an  ounce. 

Care  should  be  taken  that  the  Brazil  wood  be  not 
adulterated  with  the  Braziletto  or  Campeachy  (com- 
monly called  peachy)  wood ; which  is  mostly  the  case, 
when  it  is  ground ; and  though  a very  detrimental  fraud 
in  all  instances  of  the  application  of  Brazil  wood  to  the 
forming  bright  red  colors,  cannot  yet  be  perceived  after 
the  mixture  of  the  raspings,  but  by  trial  in  using  them ; 
it  is  therefore  much  the  best  tvay,  when  it  is  wanted  for 
purposes  like  this,  to  procure  the  true  Brazil  wood  in 
pieces,  and  to  scrape  it  with  a knife,  or  rasp  it  \vith  a 
very  bright  file,  (but  all  rust  of  iron  must  l)e  carefully 
avoided)  by  which  means  all  possibility  of  sophistica- 
tion is  of  course  prevented. 

Red  ink  may  likewise  be  prepared,  by  the  above  pro- 
cess, of  white  wine  instead  of  vinegar ; but  it  should 
be  sour,  or  disposed  to  be  so,  otherwise,  a third  or 
fourth  of  ^nneg3r  should  be  added,  in  order  to  its  taking 
the  stronger  tincture  from  the  wood.  Sm^ll  beer  has 
been  sometimes  used  for  the  same  purpose ; but  the 
ink  will  not  be  so  bright,  and  when  it  is  used  vinegar 
should  be  added,  and  the  quantity  of  gum  Arabic  di 
minished,  and  the  sugar  wholly  omittedp 


304 


MANUFACTURER’S  ASSISTANT. 


Preparation  of  red  ink  from  vermilion. 

“Take  the  glair  of  four  eggs,  a tea  spoonful  of  white 
sugar  or  sugar  cdlljtly  beaten  to  powder,  and  as  much 
spirit  of  wine ; and  beat  them  together  till  tliey  be  of 
the  consistence  of  oil.  Then  add  such  a proportion  of 
vermilion  as  will  produce  a red  color,  sufficiently  strong, 
and  keep  thd  mixture  in  a small  phial  or  well  stopped 
ink  bottle  foi^  use.  /fhe  composition  should  be  well 
shaken  together  before  it  be  used.” 

Instead  of  the  glair  of  eggs,  gum  water  is  freqtient- 
ly  used,  but  thin  size  made  of  isinglass  with  a little  hon- 
ey, is  much  better  for  the  purpose. 


Composition  of  the  best  hard  red  sealing  wax. 

“ Take  of  shell-lac,  well  powdered,  two  parts,  of  SOS'-' 
m and  vermillion  powered  also  each  one  part.  Mix 
them  well  together,  and  melt  them  over  a gentle  nre ; 
and  when  the  ingredients  seem  thoroughly  incorp^a- 
ted,  work  the  wax  into  sticks.  Where  shell-lac  Cannot 
be  procured,  seed-lac  may  be  substituted  for  it.” 

The  qua'itity  of  vermillion,  which  is  much  the  dear- 
est ingredient,  may  be  diminished  without  any  injury 
to  the  sealing  wax,  where  it  is  not  required  to  be  of  the 
highest  and  brightest  red  color : and  the  resin  should 
be  of  the  whitest  kind,  as  that  improves  the  effect  of 
the  vermilliojt. 

Care  should  be  .taken  not  to  use  too  strong  a fire  in 
melting  the  ingredients ; aiid  to  remove  them  out  of 
the  heat,  as  soon  as  they  be  well  commixed ; for  if  any 
evaporation^of  tlie  more  volatile  parts  of  the  shell  or  red 
iac,;or  resin,  be  suffered,  the  wax  is  rendered  propor- 
•tjonably  brittle. 


END. 


( i 


XXo  I 


THE  GEiry  CENieR 
LIBRARY 


K- A;jlv:r  .-ri'}t- 


W4 


>WuC-H-3£ 


C“>3{;->5?i:i:-;:v: 


